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I Forge Iron

TravisM

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Posts posted by TravisM

  1. Yes I was very surprised how differently the wrought moved compared to the file steel. I'm certainly no expert but maybe w2? 

    I've done lot of san mai before and I do everything flux free.  My next billet will have 3.6mm 1084 core and see how that moves.  

    This is the forged blade 

     

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  2. Ripped into this wagon tyre today. 

    I forged it from 20mm thick to 9mm. Cut it and cleaned up, the only high carbon steel I had around that thickness was an old worn out file so I used that as the core steel.  I've used old files for kitchen knives before and I really like them as monosteel blades.  It turned out to be a bad combo with the wrought,  I've got way too much core left, hardly any wrought.  I forged it almost all the way to shape just to keep the cladding where I need it but I'm guessing I'll grind through the a lot if the wrought layer.  I'd be interested to know how other knife makers work with wrought.  

    L

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  3. So I've been chasing some wrought iron for san mai knives for a while, it's a bit hard to find here in Australia.  I was looking to buy from overseas UK/US  postage is pretty expensive.   I got quoted £40 for 1 x wrought chain link £60 postage.   So I started looking for wagon wheels here.  I don't have a great knowledge of our steel making history in Australia.  I don't know if we produced much wrought or imported it, any help would be appreciated. 

    The asking price is $200aud  1.5m wheel

     

     

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  4. Thanks for the detailed reply,  your numbers are very exciting, I'd love to give your knives a go at my work. I've had a very chippy knife in aogami super, I bought it when I was an apprentice 64 rockwell I think.  Some of the knives I've made lately been a bit too hard to sell to other chefs so I keep the rock hard ones my myself. 

    I can see wootz in my near future,  how viable is waste veg oil for firing a crucible melt thingo? 

  5. The anvil was $600 Aud, which is pretty good over here, and they are not really that common in the 100kg+ range around my area.  

    The anvil pre heating and post heating to build up the face, is that really getting in the range to ruin a temper on the rest of the face ?  

    I don't think I'll attempt it but how long would it take to build up that section with welding rods?

      

     

  6. Hi everyone,  today I picked up a peter wright 2 0 0 weight with a clearly busted top. The price was ok and the rest of the anvil still had pretty good ring and rebound.  I'm wanting to fix the broken part but not sure how to go about it.  Any heavy hardy use can be on my other anvil which is a bit bigger and not broken. I can weld fairly well and I have a supply of some 9260 at 8mm thick. My first thought was to harden a suitable size plate then weld it to the broken heel and grind it all back. Any thoughts would be appreciated.  Thanks20220518_220316.thumb.jpg.4950db77f991bb0e82515cd00448cb11.jpg

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  7. A bloke selling a very similar anvil in Australia got some more information on the maker. Both our anvils had the ST stamp and looked fairly identical apart from size. I'm not sure who I'D it but I thought I'd share.

    Norrisez, Stourbridge England

     

     

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  8. Thanks for all your replies, my new anvil has been put to use already.  I love the history of a tool this old. Its a privilege to have it in my workshop knowing many before me have used it. Its a  testiment to the workmanship and quality that the anvil that its lasted as long as it has. 

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