dlpierson

Mf (the temperature at which all retained austenite is converted to martensite is about -100F for most (all?)
of the knife steels that need this treatment. Thus dry ice should be just barely cold enough for that.
However, liquid nitrogen is more economical for makers that do this frequently because you can keep
a dewar of it for a month or so.

There may be some added benefits to the lower temps of liquid nitrogen but that is more controversial.

Really nice looking traditional santoku Sam! How does it work?

Great to hear this Larry. I'll be in touch about a wand after you get this set up (and I
finally get the power for the forge set up).

Wonderful machine. I'm so glad it's still working and being used.

wonder if that would fit in my workshop

I've used both WSSI and K&G with good results. Other folks I know also think well
of both of them though opinion is pretty split on which is better.

Cool! That does look worth the work.

Thank you, both the update and for taking this on.

So sad, he leaves a mighty big hole.

Excellent verse Brasikilt!

Beautiful knife in all and that Aspen is really something. I hope your stabilization of it works well.

Design and workmanship both look great!

Beautiful design! I completely agree that a pro shot of this
should be one of the highlights of your portfolio.

The best, though most PIA way, is to fully shape and fit the handle slabs
(and bolsters if any) in a removable way. Some people use bolts or temporary
pins. Others use super glue. Then remove the handle, etch, and attach the
handle permanently.

Top makers tend to intentionally chamfer the tang/handle junction and/or make
the wood be a couple of thousands proud of the junction. This is because wood
will move anyway and an intentional junction looks better than what you'll
wind up with after it moves.

Chain saw damascus has definitely been done for blades.
Both as the sole material and as the outside layers of a san mai.

Both of the damascus are beautiful and that musk ox is just phenomenal! You've done the materials justice.

This is what I wear most of the time I'm not doing hot work, especially when doing
anything to wood with power tools: Resp-O-Rator.

Light, comfortable, inexpensive. You have to breath through your mouth. Wears out after a while.

I like them both but the higher count one grabs me more.

I got both of the Nicholson patternmaker's rasps. Obviously useless on iron but should be
great for shaping handles.

Lovely lines and curves, both in the profile of blade and handle and in the harmonizing plunge. Beautiful work.

I agree with you Matt. The "lazy" comment was (too rudely) directed to
fellow beginners who immediately try to adopt this style because they
think it's less work. I've seen this too often. You're absolutely
right that forging to shape at the level Tai does it is anything but
easy. Another example I really like is Joe Keeslar's paradox blades:
rough forge finish combined with hand engraving and silver wire inlay.

Beautiful, stylish and well done!

Note that Tai Goo, probably the best of the neo-tribal smiths can and does turn
out beautifully polished and perfectly finished pieces when he wants to. Look
for pictures of the "magic blade".

IMHO, the really good work with visible hammer marks, etc. is done by people who
have proven their ability to produce perfectly finished and fitted knives then
chosen to express themselves differently.

To be blunt: lack of craft skill is not an excuse for picking a lazy style. It
never works well.

Really nice handle. Not to fond of Bucks myself, but you're alreadly
planning to learn the rest. Good start!

15N20 is probably the most popular choice. Some, but only some, bandsaw blades are 15N20.
Various people sell it in thin stock for pattern welders.

L6 is another possibility.

Beautiful! That's going to be one happy boyfriend. Hope you expect him to
get the idea that you like him.