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I Forge Iron

mountmyfish

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Everything posted by mountmyfish

  1. Thank you for the encouraging words and the hint on where to start. I'll work on it and post back when I get there.
  2. Thank you Frosty. I got a hole drilled in the bottom this morning, thanks to both you and Mikey98118 for the suggestion. Makes perfect sense. When I set out on this build I had grand visions of making super fancy doors but then read the following post from you in the thread https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/26663-doors-for-a-propane-forge-please/ and decided not to do it: "Doors can be a pain, the fire has to exhaust somewhere and out the door is the usual. This means metal is going to warp unless you put enough refractory on and around it to shield it from the fire. I've mad
  3. I have not drilled a hole, as I didn't know that was a thing. I'll drill a hole there tomorrow morning.
  4. I did a few 10 minute firings and cooling off sessions today. My last one was about 1 hour with K26 bricks piled up at the back and things looked pretty good. I was using the laser thermometer to check all around it periodically and am satisfied that everything is working more/less the way I want it. The legs got up to around 120 degrees and the part touching the table was around 80 F. All of the copper/brass was about ambient temperature through the whole cycle, around 50 degrees F. The burner tubes are around 100F at steady state and the middle of the shell around 250F. I manag
  5. I did a test fire of my forge this morning. My questions/progress around that are covered in the following: Lots of thanks to Mikey98118 for getting me through all of that. Thought I'd share what happened this morning both to get ideas on what's next and to serve as a resource for other people building/tuning similar gear. I have a pair of 1/2" Frosty T-burners in my forge. Call them the 'near' burner and 'far' burner in the pictures. I decided to start with .025 MIG tips cut down to 1/2 size, as I have a box of them laying around. They protrude about 5/8" into the Tee. I s
  6. I've been thinking about that potential issue and thank you for the suggestion on big washers. I'll see what I can come up with next time I get some shop time and will post back some pics. I was initially concerned that my burner ports were too large but now that it is all put together I'm glad to have gone with 2" ID pipe. They seem just right. I was thinking I'd also use some left over ceramic wool dipped in rigidizer stuffed into the ports once I get them aimed. The McClendons near me sells the rope seal for wood stove doors, which I thought might work well on top of the wo
  7. Thought I'd follow up with a few pics of how my setup finished up. Got a few pics of the liner going in also. Left it in a bag with wet towels for 2 days. I have had a lightbulb in it all week drying out the Kast-o-Lite 30 and am planning to fire it up this Saturday.
  8. I think you are right. I calculated it as 1/2 of a 6.5" cylinder (the top of the arc to the midpoint across the horizontal) plus a 2.75" x 6.5" box below that but along the entire 13.5" of cylinder (neglecting the curvature of the front and back). I forgot to account for 2.25" insulation/refractory materials at each of the front and back, which makes the length about 9" (again, disregarding curvature). This gives me about 150 for the 1/2 cylinder + 160 for the box, 310 total. With the vagaries of the liner stack, it seems like 350 in^3 is a good design number. I'm going to roll wi
  9. Here's my South Bend model 615-A. Purchased new at a hardware store in Seattle March 1939. This is a "C" model with manual change gears and no power crossfeed. I bought this lathe from the son of the original owner about 10 years ago and did a full restoration, which I documented It came with a bunch of cool memorabilia including original hand written receipt, build tags from the factory, and old tool catalogs. Also came with a ton of tooling including an Albrecht 1/2 keyless chuck, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, wood turning rests, a steady rest, and a milling attachment. I added the quick change
  10. Pics of my shell with the paint on attached. Got 3 good coats out of a fresh can of Krylon BBQ paint. Thank you for the suggestion on burner size. Looks like my total volume is right at 500 in^3 so I guess 2 x 3/4" burners would be more than I need. I'll rejigger to 1/2" and read up some more. I drilled out / tapped a 1" x 3/4" tee the other day and that's when I figured out I needed to re-indicate my lathe. Turns out my tailstock had drifted out laterally by about 0.010, which I corrected this morning. Everything is running tight again. Screwing the tee onto a hex fitting I ha
  11. Thank you. I really enjoy the equipment making part of hobbies, so it didn't feel like work at all putting it together. The propane tank came up on CL for $5 and Everett Steel had everything else I needed in the scrap bin so achieving good economics so far. I am planning to use 2 x 3/4" 'frosty' burners with the 1" tee at the top. Currently thinking 6" tubes on them to hit the 8-9x diameter to length suggestion . The ports are big enough to accommodate larger burners and big flares but, since my interior is about 550 in^3, it seemed like the 2 x 3/4 was about right based on what I w
  12. Thank you, I really appreciate the response and clarification. I moved it down 1" to 3" off of TDC and spent most of my afternoon getting it aimed to miss both the near side wall and the middle of the floor. I actually used some longer sections of 3/4" PVC pipe as "aimers", as I was concerned about not only the radial angle but also the axial orientation (i.e. I wanted to avoid pointing the burner out of the front/back of the forge). Built a temporary fixture to keep everything straight. Definitely a case of measure twice (or 8 times) and weld once. Pretty sure I'll be right at 1.25-1.5
  13. Thank you, glad I asked and really glad I held off drilling holes this afternoon. I decided to mess with the bearings on my lathe instead ;-) . I guess I am not understanding the clock reference, as normally I think of 12 o'clock up, 6 o'clock down, 9 o'clock to the left and 3 o'clock to the right. This is how I came up with 10 o'clock being about 1/3 of the way up from horizontal on the left. This was about 6.25" along the arc from TDC when I did the math. Apologies for not being clear on where to reference from. Perhaps easier for me to understand if I could think in terms
  14. Thank you for the replies. A primary goal of missing both the near side of the wall and the work pieces in the center makes a lot of sense and clears it up for me. I was stuck on something else I read that suggested putting the burners at 10-15 degrees down from TDC. Somewhere else had a suggestion of 2" down from TDC, which is what I have marked on there now. I was having a hard time with the geometry with the ports that high on the shell and getting the flame to hit the near side of the floor at an angle that would also induce swirl (rather than splash, as Thomas noted).
  15. Really great board, thank you to everyone who patiently answers questions and shares their experience. Doing my first forge build out of a propane cylinder and would like to make sure I have the burner angle correctly figured out before I weld everything together. Been reading a few related topics and currently focused on the following as my guiding principles, which I found in a thread from March/April 2018: Frosty: "I think you'll have better conditions in the forge if your burners are aimed at that angle short of the center of the floor rather than the far wall." Mikey98118: "
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