JamesBBrauer

Thanks for the info fellas. I'll post an update when I get mine lined.

I had good results doing this with Arm&Hammer washing soda. If I understand what is going on, this is making an electrical field in the electrolyte solution. This means the rusty target has to be turned to face the plate to get all the rust off, or to get it off faster. And being less than possessed of common sense I tried to light the hydrogen bubbles coming off the tank, but nothing went off.

I followed this with interest since as of 2am last night I have a kaowool lined forge that needs to have the insulation stabilized or encapsulated. I was going to start with a kaolin liner like is described here. It looks like I might be able to get kaolin clay locally as they sell if as unscented baby powder, or drive down to Denver for a bag of the stuff. But on to my question. I was going to slather a thin slip onto the kaowool. Do I need to follow a firing schedule like with a castable refractory, or would drying it out good with a space heater do the trick?

This burner is similar to the 'T' design on this site, but I added a reducer between the 1-1/4" T and and the 1" main tube to get some velocity improvements from the venturi effect, and hopefully keep the flame coming out the business end. The flare is 1/8" wall steel tubing, that I am going to embed in cast-o-lite inside the forge. It is cranked up beyond where I would use it in a forge for this video, you can see it is dumping more propane than it can burn, and sparking from what I suppose are bits of metal debris still inside the tube. This is inherently unsafe, but it is all cast iron pipe, fuel grade hose on the low side, hard lines on the hi side, and will be used and kept out back under the deck. simple link to burner YouTube - propaneBurn attempt at embedding the video