Deimos

I meant high Manganese steels, I remember trying to do some welding on parts of a steel blasting machine. 

6 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

  Wrought iron can be arc welded I'd V out the crack and do a build up with a stick welder,  Note it will use more filler as the ferrous silicates go away.

Should it not also be preheated and cooled off slowly? Or is that only with cast iron and other hard types of steel (like manganese)

Nice one Latticino, rather regret doing it then live the rest of your life wondering what could have been.

I get the feeling the post was all about the link, and not an actual question.

10 hours ago, rockstar.esq said:

Deimos,  That's absolutely true.  When I was incredibly sleep deprived by my colicky firstborn, I was a college student who absolutely couldn't remember a lot of stuff.  I had engineering exams that would have been a lot easier if I could have remembered the formula.  I passed them by deriving what I needed.    

I know that feeling, since I would always forget or misplace the the letters in the formula I would just repeat them over and over again when I entered the classroom. Put my notebook away at the last possible moment and as soon as I got my exam and paper, write every formula and what I was for on the paper. Getting a 1.7 (a D is a 5.5 over here, so a 1.7 is 5 levels of F) for French I could live with (my mom not so much). But failing math or physics hurts real bad if you never make a mistake on paper, as long as you have a book with the formula with you.

Before you point a finger at someone/something remember that 3 fingers are pointing back at you. In any situation, before passing blame, look at what you can do to change it, if nothing can be done by you or in your sphere of influence it means it is not in your power to change the situation and you should not worry about it.

If you let go of things, it gives you two free hands.

ooo, going deep are we.

1st one: You are dyslectic, not stupid

2nd one: Don't ever listen to people who try to hold you back, who have no job, no life experience or actual knowledge about anything. Do what you think is right, fail or succeed, as long as you learn something from it.

3rd one: Always listen to two sides of the story, don't jump to conclusions before you know more then the other parties involved, and keep an open mind.

When I worked as a hydraulic mechanic I used an old pair of tights my then girlfriend "donated". Ideal for light grinding work and tacking, when you don't need them you can just pull them dawn and they "store"around you wrist. Pretty nice when it is way to warm to wear leather or a thick welding jacket. Don't expect them to last longer then a month.

Got this as an early birthday present from my wife. Thank you mister Powers for the suggestion.

Its a biscuit roll with raspberries, whipped cream, mascarpone cheese, mint and little chocolate Easter eggs.

Pretty easy to find hardy tools for then, my PW has a 30mm+ (I believe 1 1/4 inch?) so it is very hard to find hardy tools that fit.

That indeed looks like the 1860-1890 age range. Looks very nice, does it also have the 30mm hardy hole?

Bandsaw + beer = seeing 2 thumbs less on one hand.

That picture put a smile on my face, cute little anvil with a huge stump and some hefty chains. Reminds me of the flatbed truck with the tricycle on it.

Since it FINALY stopped raining and I was able to put some things outside to reorganize my shed I now have a pretty nice workbench

Next on the list is to make this wall more useful, al the wall shelves are left by the old owner and I want to replace the right one with some racks for my steel (which is now taking up space on my bench).

Its good to have a wife that loves to cook, I am such a lucky man. One day I will die fat and happy.

Looking at field hockey stick they are made from "wood" reinforced with either plastic or fiberglass. Its a nice idea but also 3 times as expensive as just using a existing axe or sledgehammer handle.

I really like that design, with a bit of improvisation you could just use a thick-walled pipe or round bar for making bends, I used that when I was a welder and it works pretty good. 

What are baseball bats made from over in the USA? Over here the cheap ones ($25) are made from beech or "wood". The rest is about $80 and up

The only sport that gets real media coverage is soccer (which is funny since we are not really good at it, while we are very good at field hockey and volleyball but the media does not care about that), there are some baseball teams but it is not given the respect it should. 

Over here we use EUR-pallet for almost everything, bigger or cheaper pallets are always used with really low quality wood.

That depends, re-clamping the piece in another orientation could mean it can be done on a more simple machine. From what I know it is mostly the time it takes to let the machine do its job that determines the price. I would not rule it out as an option.

For casting, maybe you can give RAM Mounts a call, I have worked with their products in the past and everything they have is (or at least was) cast aluminum with a black coating. Maybe they can tell you who does their work for them.

Well, then Aluminum would be the cheapest option, still not really sure why you would want the part cast and not just machined.

If it is not used under any stress, why not just make it from some hard type of plastic? 

Tumbling is designed for high volumes, deburring by hand is only fun with single piece production.

If you do not want any coating on your product then any type of material that does not oxidize is good I guess. Without knowing where you want to use it, or what for it is really hard to give advice. Cast metal will not be as shiny as you think, it needs to be polished first. 

I understand 100% what you are talking about, if it is not a plank or should go into a fireplace it is pretty hard to find.

Only site I could find so quick is this one "https://www.af.nl/plattegrond/" maybe give them a call. 

Same here brother, welder, mechanical/hydraulic mechanic, electrician, engineer and cycle mender. Exploding lead into the eyes sounds pretty nasty, but since you survived it makes a good story for sure. 

To get back to your concern about flammable gasses, since you where a welder you know how to handle a pressurized bottle. You also know that a leaking bottle is bad, so use soap to check if the connection is ok. When lighting the forge I go with placing a burning piece of paper inside of the forge, opening the air intake a little before opening the gas valve (this way the flame will start blue instead of yellow, yellow flames are not concentrated so they will want to eat your eyebrows) This way you can be away from the opening and nothing really bad can happen, even if you get a burst of flame from the forge opening you will be safely to the side, adding more air so that the flame gets blue and loud.

Since they burner opening can't really be blocked by anything (like with a cutting torch) (unless you actively try to do so, and in that case you are just tempting Darwin) there is no danger of the flame jumping back into the pipe/hose/bottle. Having a manual ball valve to close of the gas is a useful thing because it is much faster then closing the bottle (I don't like my last safety measure to be electronic because there are more parts that can go wrong then)

Then you will do just fine, as long as you know things can go wrong and not freeze up or panic when they do go wrong. Prepare for things to go wrong (get yourself a fire extinguisher and a bucket of water, eye and ear protection, clothing that does not go WOOSH when it gets hit by a spark, gloves, clogs and if you work alone keep your phone close by and tell people what you are doing) but don't expect them to go wrong.