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I Forge Iron

Smallchangerain

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  1. Hi Brian, I recently had to replace my devil forge regulator and hose (separate issues/incidents). While im at it, I want to go ahead and make some mods. I have long wanted a ball valve, and to have the hose further away from the heat (MAJOR design flaw imho). It looks like you've done exactly what I'm trying to do, and I wo dear if you could point me in the right direction. What size fittings you used, and how you affixed them (welds brazing?). I'm not even sure what to search on YT. Any help or a push in the right direction would be much appreciated . Thanks, Graham P.s. I have been running a two burner devil forge for a year now, I tend to use the one burner option, and the tip of the burner has flared out, more than the other one, but that is all that has happened. Moving it farther back definitely helped
  2. You are describing to a "T" the gentleman who sold me my anvil. I drove out to meet him, brought the cash with me and we chatted for a bit. He was asking $600 CAD for a 150 lbs J.B. after I handed him the cash, he counted out a hundred and gave it back to me. He told me that he was sick of dealing with antique dealers who were haggling only to turn around and resell it, and once he realized I actually want to learn on the thing he decided to help me out a bit. I looked for close to a year before I found an anvil that wasn't in dire need of repair or way beyond my price range. Hope I can be in the position to pay it forward one day.
  3. Hey, thanks very much! I will read that tomorrow at breakfast. I have heard that about leaf springs, and I know there are better options, I just am trying to do it on the cheap side for now. The spring in question has produced a very reliable leuku, and the cracks that appeared were entirely localized in the aforementioned area that was partially out of the quench, and may have been forged too cold or otherwise over worked. You do raise an excellent point, there are only so many ways to polish up a xxxx. At this point it's all a learning curve for me, and I'm just happy that there is an identifiable issue with the piece, and that I pulled off an old school lap welded eye. I'll attach a photo tomorrow so you guys can see. It's so cool to have input like this!
  4. Where did you get them? They look great!
  5. I forged one using leaf spring. It was only my second forge weld with my new (beginner) shop. The eye held up great, and i was really happy with the weld. however, the neck of the froe (the bit between he blade and eye) cracked clean in two. Some grinding revealed that i had a lot of micro cracks in the area. As far as I can figure it cracked either while I quenched it (the blade, which didn't crack at all was totally submerged in the oil, but the quench tank wasn't deep enough to submerge the whole thing, I thought it would be fine but I guess maybe not), or it was stress fractures form forging the neck down. I made it without doing any research, and now that I've looked into it I've seen a few Youtube videos (including good 'ol Tojborn) where they are forged from mild steel. I was considering re-welding the blade into a new mild steel eye, but now I'm thinking ill use mild steel and save the leaf spring for another project. So long as it doesn't warp while using it it should be fine. It doesn't need to be shaving sharp after all, and a Froe take a lot more abuse than most high carbon steel cutting tools should.
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