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I Forge Iron


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About wrickm

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    Richmond VA
  • Interests
    Painting, Lifting, Gaming, Blacksmithing

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  1. irondragon, i dont think that is the issue, but that is great info to have. It makes how the tanks act when i get mad and whip the regulator up to full make a lot more sense. At first i thought i was just somehow suffocating the flame, but this makes waaaaay more sense. Thanks man!
  2. Going cold, starts nice strong flame with a beautiful big hotspot, the the fuel flow drops and the flame loses focus (becomes less visible fans out more) and the area directly under the burner becomes darker and colder than the edges.
  3. I built a small ribbon burner propane forge and i really love how it burns, but i have had a couple issues. I feel like i am constantly adjusting up the regulator. I know that bottles freeze, but it starts only a few minutes after i light it up. I never had to pay this much attention to the pressure on the venturi burner setup. I would appreciate any thoughts you guys have. I use a heating wrap on the bottle but the bottom still get's frosty so i am going to cut a barrel in half to make a water tank for the bottle. . . I have attached a pic of my setup.
  4. So far the mizzou castable refractory has held up well, and i am building a ribbon burner forge so i will include the stainless tray and clay litter in that build. Thanks!
  5. An update. I appreciate everyone's advice. After more trial and error i have managed to do several successful if not beautiful forge welds. Part of my issue was that i believe for my forge to get hot enough the flame becomes very oxidizing. I have found using a lot of plain borax to really coat the piece has helped a lot. That and the procedures above have helped me make a few wrapped eye trade axes. Thanks everyone
  6. Flea market finds. Anyone know specifically what the auger type screw is?
  7. That is a neat idea! May have to run with that
  8. BIGGUNDOCTOR: Good looking vise Wrickm. What is the trans on the floor for? I have a 1978 Landrover (Santana) 109 with a 200tdi conversion. That's a broken transmission and transfer case. ThomasPowers: Makes sense. figured it would be a help in identifying the vise. I think maybe Columbian. Would like to know approx how old it is. Sorry if i offended anyone with my potty mouth. . . .
  9. ThomasPowers, perhaps i should have said distinctive rather than unusual. BillyBones, that sounds like a big honkin pain xx xxx xxx to disassemble lol I straightened the leg, adjusted and welded the pivot plates so the jaws are even (a touch of flap disc grinding to finish that up), greased and reassembled, and it looks pretty snazzy. Need to create a spring and get it on a stand.
  10. Got this post vise for $80. No markings on it other than 50 so we got the original weight. Acme screw and nut seem in good order(maybe short?) . Jaws do not line up. About 3/16 off. Some of that is the pivot bolt. Leg is a touch bent, so going into need to work on that. Unusual features are the square head pivot bolt and square nut, amd that the pivot mount plates are riveted not welded. If any of you fine folk have guesses or info about it let me know.
  11. hdvoyager319 Thank you for the step by step. I actually printed this out (and those other people sent me that were all similar) and created a quick reference checklist to keep me on track, and patient. swededfiddle the forge is off in that pic. just residual heat making it glow a little, but thank you for looking out!
  12. Another day. another failure. I really don't know what to do here. I turned the forge all the way up, let the link soak in that heat for a LONG time. Never saw sparks but i watch the flux boil off, the surface seem to move a bit. Take it out, less than a step to the anvil and when i tap them it is like the just slide off each other, no stickiness at all. i have included a pic of the piece of metal because. . . i don't know. . .because. Maybe this forge just can't quite do it. Note pic is after a very vigorous wire brushing. . .
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