stringstalker82

Rojo, it's almost as quiet as my old fisher. No ring just a solid thunk.

Thanks twisted willow

I know most people say knuckle hight for an anvil, but with my fisher, I did that and was always stooped over the anvil, making my back sore. This time I built this one with an anvil hight just below wrist hight. And my back likes this much better. Next I'm going to build a tripod striking anvil/ post vise mount. I'll keep you informed.

Thanks Ms. Jennifer! It looks sandy, but is actually hard packed clay dirt, just a little loose on top. I gotta get a dolly from HF so I can move it to the actual forging area of my barn. I have an area about 10x10 in the barn that has crane mats for flooring.

Got my stand done and Anvil mounted.

Not finished, but I will finish it up this weekend when I get home. Going to add a stretcher/lower shelf, and some tool holding. 

Mr. Powers, then Rojo and myself are good...cause we can turn ours a fathom of ways and there will always be 2 horns opposing eachother...lol

General guide, you want your hardy hole to your tong hand side, simply to eliminate hitting your hardy tools with the hand that holding your hammer. Course I was also thought that when not using a hardy tool, it shouldn't be in the hardy hole. However, I don't always do what I was taught. 

Frosty, the main reason why I wanted a thicker plate is really to help add to the mass of the stand, that and Ed Brazzeal also recommended a 1" plate and heavy wall tubing for the legs.  Not sure why, not like I'm mounting a 460# refflinghous...lol

125# anvil. I'd like to try to get the stand as close to that weight as possible. Which I may not be able to with a tripod style stand. 

Thats the one I remember seeing.  I was thinking that since 1" plate is so darn high, use a 1/2" top plate, the weld 1x1x.125" angle to the underside, one leg down like an under skirting for reinforcement. Another idea I had was instead 1" plate, my anvil base is approximately 8"x10" so I've found 1"x10" bar stock can be bought per foot for about the same price as the 12"x12"x1/2" plate steel. That would give me a nice 1" lip around the edge of the base, plenty of room to weld 1/2" bar stock to locate the corners of the base, then glue the anvil to the stand with silicone.  My original plan was to drill and tap the anvil base for bolts coming through the top plate from the bottom. However, as tough as hardened h13 is, I don't see the point in that as a drill and tap that would do it, and only be used once, is over $300.

Actually on metals depot, the 1"x10"x12" bar stock is $10 cheaper than the 1/2"x12"x12" plate.

Frosty, didn't you build your stand with an open angle iron top frame instead of a top plate? I remember seeing one on a thread on here a long time ago. Seems like it was painted green.

With the price of heavy steel being what it is, would 1/2" plate steel with 2" square tube legs 1/8" wall work? 

On 8/22/2021 at 7:17 AM, TWISTEDWILLOW said:

Awesome! Are you gonna build a steel tripod or a steel sand stand? 

I'm building a steel tripod since my barn has a dirt floor and I need to move things about as it is a multi use building.

On 8/22/2021 at 10:43 AM, Frosty said:

OOOH, P R E T T Y!  

Frosty The Lucky.

Thanks. Had problems with my local fedex on delivering.  But, Hobie went above and beyond on helping get it sorted out. 

On 8/22/2021 at 11:37 PM, Rojo Pedro said:

Nice!  Not sure about the shelf but love the pointy horn. Let us know what you think of it after you have used it awhile. 

That's why I went with the holland over other German patterns. 1, with the hardy hole placed at the square horn end, I get to keep my round horn to my right, and 2, this keeps the shelf out of the way when working over the horn. Oh almost forgot its made in the USA out of h13. I really considered a kanca, as they where a bit cheaper, however, I didn't like that if you were using full width hardy tools, the outsides of said tooling would be hanging out over the horn, unsupported.

It's here!!! Man I didn't realize how much bigger and heavier a 125 pounder would be compared to my old 70 pound fisher. It's a beast. Now I'm working on getting the steel to build a stand for it.

Update: took me a while to save up the extra money, but I have the #125 double horn holland on the way. Should be here tomorrow according to FedEx. 

Yall sure make life interesting.  When I shut down this truck at the end of the day, one of the first things i check after my post trip is here...lol. much more entertaining than listening to some fruit loop on the CB saying he ain't it no panties on all day long...lol

I've been wearing glasses since the 5th grade. And I agree with Mr. Powers, There have been several times my specticals have protected my lookers. 

Iron dragon, I love my muzzleloaders. Actually I love anything outside. I've actually just got through given my favorite smoke pole its preseason check up. It is a hand built Tennessee Mountain flint lock  that I built from a kit. Cherry stock, with iron trimmings and all the iron is blue. I fancy the blued look much more than the browned ones I have seen.

Slag I have a cheater lens in my old pipeliner welding hood.

Frosty, now dont you try to tell me that our eye sight goes to xxxx as we get older...lol

Glenn, sounds like my upbringing.

That's pretty cool Mr. Thomas! And I do see where a thin heel could be used in some scrolls or in gate work, especially when setting rivets between 2 elements instead of collering. I'm guessing that's why Uri Hofi designed an anvil with such a large side shelf.

Glenn, yeah if you where to put kits like that together now, talking thousands not hundreds.

Definately an interesting read. Hay Budden made some very nice anvils, but, in the size anvil I need/want, I wouldn't have one, nor a peter wright. Just my personal opinion, but I dislike narrow waisted, thin heeled anvils, but maybe I'm prejudiced as I love my fishers.

I'm not gonna get political about it (this is neither the time nor place) but, unless they want their history and heritage torn down or renamed, quite doing it to mine. I am descended from William Henry Carroll,  Brigadier General, 37th Tennessee Infantry, CSA.

Btw, Mr. Powers, I'm gonna try to get up to the round house this coming spring and see your handiwork. 

Ah. Polk... although when I hear that name, I usually think of those long hot mosquito infested nights at Ft. Polk, LA...

Btw, my sn is string stalker, for my love of archery. Although strings talker could also work since I also like playing guitar...lol

Mr. Powers,

Do huh?

Frosty,

Didnt notice the emoji. I agree, I often work all the way around my anvils.

Glenn,

That was the exact thread I read that turned me against the kanca. 

5 hours ago, Frosty said:

But how do you  know which way to point it? 

I have to find someone in the local club who owns one and give it a try, I've never worked on a double horned one.

Frosty, I always have the hardy under my left (tong) hand. On american and London patterns, that puts your horn to the right. So by going with a holland, I can keep my anvil oriented the way I'm used to, and gain a square horn, side shelf, and upset block.

Foundryguy,

Have you considered making a south german pattern in 125-150 pound size? I saw the big one yall made on your Facebook page a while back.

After reading on other threads here about kanca's denying from having a soft face, I have decided they are out. So that leaves holland and hoffman. I really like both, but am leaning toward the Holland as I like the hardy hole placement as that leaves the horn to my right which is what I'm used to. And  with as much as I use the horn, I'm afraid I might smack my right hand (hammer)  on the shelf of the Hoffman anvil.

18 hours ago, Glenn said:

Have you looked at Jymm Hoffman's 125# Continental Pattern Anvil 

Yes I did look at his site, along with every other modern anvil manufacturers website. 

Yes Mr Hoffnan, I agree a lot of work can be done on smaller anvils. I'm currently using my great grandfather's 1904 Fisher 70 pounder. It is a great and fantastic anvil and I really wish fisher was still in business. Only problem is there isnt a decent edge anywhere on it. Been chipped away. And rather than try to repair it (as that is beyond my welding skill atm) I decided to get a new anvil. And since I'm buying a new one, might as well go bigger. 

Frosty, I agree, his anvil in the video is as quiet as my old fisher.