machinisttalk

great video.  thank you

Mikey:  This better?

Centered the contact tip and pulled it out a little.

This shot is 5psi.

Check my thread.  Ufo build. 

Mixed with water is gets jelly.

So just mix it until the spray bottle starts having trouble.  

Heat when done.  Burn off the food color and water.  

Well... I definitely have a new respect.  This is the first time I have ever banged on hot metal.  There are a lot of different things to consider.  

On 5/17/2018 at 12:34 AM, Mikey98118 said:

Why guys keep wanting ratios is a mystery to me. Is the colloidal silica mixture too thick to apply with a spritzer nozzle? Then thin it by adding water. Is the mixture too thin to work adequately? Then add more fumed silica. This ain't rocket science. The colloidal mixture moves over the ceramic blanket automatically; it is very difficult to screw up. These guys need to stop making problems where there aren't any!

Thanks for the input mike!

35 minutes ago, Frosty said:

Close.

I'd lose the fire brick and make the floor with ceramic blanked feathered at the walls.  Butter the blanket with sprayed water before spritzing the rigidizer for a better coat and bond and lay 1/2" of castable refractory but you're on the right track. That IS just how I build them of course and not the only way.

I feel STRONGLY about not using hard fire brick for the floor, it works but was a mistake when I did it.

Thanks for the build pics, keep us posted please.

Frosty The Lucky.

OK, I will add another layer of blanket for the base instead.

• I think I saw some thread where you mentioned a ratio mix for " mix colloidal silica with water "  can you remind me, I can't find that thread.  Or is there a consistency we're looking for?  I haven't tried to mix it with water yet, it is such a light material should be interesting.
• Also is there a mix ratio / consistency for the plistix?

Enjoy sharing, appreciate the input. 

It is no longer the ufo build.  I got a 5 gallon air tank for the shell. 

I believe I am ready to start setting my blanket and rigidizing, which I have some questions about. 

(I swear on my mother I have tried to read to correct steps, Mike /Frosty have laid out in forges 101 and other threads, but the info is spread out all over the place and hard to follow, but here is what I think you guys recommend.)

1. lay down 1" layer of blanket.
2. mix colloidal silica with water and food coloring, spray on blanket to act as rigidzier.
3. lay in 2nd layer, repeat step 2.
4. on top of the last layer, add the 1/4" castable refractory (not refractory cement)
5. on top of that layer add the kiln wash (plistix / itc-100 type products)

Is that correct? 

If that is correct, can you please fill me in on the water mixture amounts for both the colloidal silica and Plistix?

Websites need updating and indexing to guide people....

the sidearm burner had a parts list so I built it first.

on a side note, I was looking at his air bottle burner, why use the pipe bushing instead of just a hole in the shell?

related, is there some logic behind what size to make the rear port?  Do you need a rear port?

1 hour ago, Mikey98118 said:

Larry Zoeller states on his website that his newer "Z" burners--which use a common pipe fitting--are hotter than his old modified side-arm burners. Yet I keep seeing the old burner with the hard to find fitting being attempted over and over...

whoops.

I am sure I will build both at some point.

Local guy only had the two you see in the picture unfortunately.  I will test these first.  If I need to Ill taper it down.

He said he might start stocking the tapered style though haha, I'm not the only guy asking for them around here...

One question this picture wants me to ask, how deep does the contact tip want to be?  I will test once I get it lit, but just another variable you guys probably already know.

3 hours ago, WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith said:

Have you read the Build a Gas Forge attachment at the Forge Supplies page on my web-site?

as to the burner you need to use a Tweeko T tip, T stands for tapered.

I have thank you for the free information.

I did read about the tweco tapered contact tip.  The post I read didn't make it seem critical, so I just purchased one I found locally.  If that tapered design is critical though, I will get one ordered. 

Hello all, Wanted to share my first build with you guys so I can hopefully get it done in a good way the first time.

I am still working on getting supplies together.  I don't have a bunch of fab equipment, so I am trying to re-purpose this old stainless sink.

I am looking to create a really basic forge so I can get to heating steel relatively quickly, both in the sense of a easy build, but also a build that is well insulated.

One thing I am still thinking out is the angle of the burner.  I know a 10/15 degree offset is recommended.  

I am going to try the Zoeller sidearm burner, which I know is rated for ~350cu/in, so I will work on get the insulation sized correctly.

Any tips or critiques, please send them.

Thanks, Mic

2 hours ago, Buzzkill said:

There are 2 categories of fumed silica:  hydrophobic and hydrophilic.  You want hydrophilic (meaning it is attracted to and will dissolve readily in water).

Thanks

I am at the stage right before EnglishDave.

I am searching for the right rigidizer product to purchase.

So, I just search for any "fumed silica"? 

Is this what you bought @EnglishDave [link to commercial site selling West System colloidal silica removed]

hello. new here, new to blacksmithing, but work in a related field of machining.

don't have the coin for a nc machine at home, but I need something to do.  

so I picked this up today.  

Edges are kind of rough, but reading here yall said to check for ping and bounce back.  they felt good so I grabbed it.  

Have no idea what it is, seller claimed peter wright, either way should be more than enough for a rookie.

Next is setting up the heat.  I will post over there.  Take care. -Mic