Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Jeff Bly

Members
  • Posts

    173
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Jeff Bly

  1. Sask Mark, I ordered the book a few days ago and I am waiting for it to come. I'm kind of excited because they let me have the author inscribe it to me personally.:D

    Thomas, that makes a lot of sense. Thank you for that bit of insight. I will give that a whirl, or rather a bounce.

  2. Frosty, I'm hopelessly hooked as it is and I haven't even got a forge yet.

    So what was so special about the Hay Budden that everyone is talking about? I don't meen to stir up a bees nest with my ignorance. Just curious because I don't know if I'm going to have to save the box tops off my cereal boxes to buy one.

  3. Tom, Element, it seems to me you both got it going on. So what's the trick to use the heat of the forge to heat your shop and not have all that heat go right up the flue?

    I'll put in a heater or stove if I have to, but I want to keep as much space as I can. Also why use more fuel to heat, which relates to more cost?

  4. I just read a piece on scaling (rust) and the author spoke of using linseed oil.

    Quote "First rub the steel using a cloth soaked in linseed oil. Then bring it to the fire to warm the piece up. The oil will carburize. Remove from the heat and rub down the steel again then set aside to cool. Wipe off Excess oil and the piece should remain rust free for some time.

    He goes on to say, "The same can be done with beeswax, but for a more effective combination, use a combination of linseed oil and beeswax. Heat up the oil and flake the wax with a knife. Stir until all wax is melted. Apply the same way as suggested for the oil alone."

    He recommends using 6 cubic inches of beeswax to 1 quart of linseed oil. However the proportions are really not critical and adjust the quantities used until you are satisfied with the outcome.

  5. I did a search on this and the threads I came across seem kind of murky to me. What makes one brand better than the next? I hear people talk about a Peter Wright or some other and I want to know the difference between each. So what are the top anvils to go for and why? What are we looking for in an anvil?:confused:

    Please try and touch on all the points please. Thanks.

  6. I never thought of it that way. So in some sense it's not necessarily the hammer, but how you use it? You can force the metal in the direction you want no matter the peen, yes?

  7. Question, what is the best way to treat steel/iron tools to keep them from rusting? I currently have a bunch of my tools soaking in old used motor oil. That was something my grandfather used to do. His tools might have looked dirty, but never rusted. I ran across someone today that said I should use mineral oil instead.

    What's best for my tools?

  8. Is it just a matter of texture that you are trying to obtain with ones individual hammer, or is there a specific reason to use different style peens such as the straight, diagonal, ball, flat, etc.?

  9. Glenn, as I see it, that is very sound advice. I'm guessing what real damage can the water do to the coal? At worst it washes off any ash that is of no use, and once left to dry, it will easily be reuseable. Meanwhile use your last dried out batch, or new, or whatever is at hand.

  10. just weld the claws together.


    Now there's a good idea. I've been passing over quite a few claw hammers. That ought to be fun trying to reshape them, and if I get disgusted with them I can turn them into dinner plates or something.
×
×
  • Create New...