BladeSmithInTraining24

12 hours ago, swedefiddle said:

NOT!!!

Most tempering figures are per inch of thickness. You "HAVE TO" do your own testing, to find out what doesn't work. School of "Hard Knocks" is a teacher that you won't forget. If you forget, you shouldn't be playing the game. Don't be afraid of making a junk pile. Expecting someone to answer all your questions is precocious.

Enjoy learning, your way.

Neil

I was curious to know im not asking people to answer all my questions.

25 minutes ago, Joël Mercier said:

end of story.

11 minutes ago, Steve Sells said:

no difference 

Ok thank you!

6 minutes ago, Joël Mercier said:

That's a good question. I am following.

 

Ok so, im curious, if after hardening you temper for two straight hours at 400°F  would it be harder or softer then if you did two one hour cycles (letting cool completely inbetween) at 400°F? I dont feel like the alloy matters but this was a 1095 farriers rasp. Thanks in advance!

4 hours ago, Steve Sells said:

then it wont harden no matter what you do

Yeah steve... thats why i said mystery solved.... i know 1018 is mild, it only has .18% carbon where 1084 has .84% carbon. 

Alright guy i dug through the trash in my shop mystery solved... it is 1018

51 minutes ago, Tubalcain2 said:

You had me excited for a moment. A forge quench would be the biggest thing since bar stock.

Haha yeah

25 minutes ago, Steve Sells said:

how do you quench in a forge?

 

 i quench in oil i use a gas forge to heat my work!

17 minutes ago, Steve Sells said:

try orange 1084 hardens at 1475 F in oil so you cold be too cool,  also the waters vapor jacket could be interfering

When i said i quenched a little hotter that time it was a mid/ bright orange. Also i quench in a gas forge.

Alright so, i know a guy that works at a welding shop. he ordered me some "1084" flat bar, the reason i put 1084 in quotations is because i dont know if it is.... i cut out 2 knives and before i annealed them i decided i was gonna test the steel. I got a scrap peice from cutting the tip into the blade. I heated it up to a bright red/ dull orange quenched in pre heated (about bath water hot) vegstable oil and it did not harden. I quenched again a little hotter this time same, cut off a new peice quenched it a little cooler, let it cool down, checked it, soft. So at this point im frustrated, so i heated it up to a bright red (just like the first time) quenched it in water and it still bent and wouldnt skate a file!! There were less sparks from that then some 1095 farriers rasps, but the Sparks were bursting like high carbon though... i cant think of anything else to do... thanks for your help in advance!

 What are your thoughts on my third knife? I'm going to paracord wrap the handle.