BladeSmithInTraining24

I was curious to know im not asking people to answer all my questions.

Ok thank you!

Ok so, im curious, if after hardening you temper for two straight hours at 400°F would it be harder or softer then if you did two one hour cycles (letting cool completely inbetween) at 400°F? I dont feel like the alloy matters but this was a 1095 farriers rasp. Thanks in advance!

Yeah steve... thats why i said mystery solved.... i know 1018 is mild, it only has .18% carbon where 1084 has .84% carbon.

Alright guy i dug through the trash in my shop mystery solved... it is 1018

Haha yeah

i quench in oil i use a gas forge to heat my work!

When i said i quenched a little hotter that time it was a mid/ bright orange. Also i quench in a gas forge.

Alright so, i know a guy that works at a welding shop. he ordered me some "1084" flat bar, the reason i put 1084 in quotations is because i dont know if it is.... i cut out 2 knives and before i annealed them i decided i was gonna test the steel. I got a scrap peice from cutting the tip into the blade. I heated it up to a bright red/ dull orange quenched in pre heated (about bath water hot) vegstable oil and it did not harden. I quenched again a little hotter this time same, cut off a new peice quenched it a little cooler, let it cool down, checked it, soft. So at this point im frustrated, so i heated it up to a bright red (just like the first time) quenched it in water and it still bent and wouldnt skate a file!! There were less sparks from that then some 1095 farriers rasps, but the Sparks were bursting like high carbon though... i cant think of anything else to do... thanks for your help in advance!

What are your thoughts on my third knife? I'm going to paracord wrap the handle.