Lefse

There's 5 or so knots in there not too worried about catastrophic failure. In such an event I have my steel toe boots to thank... hopefully...

It's not set in sand fite me

^nice anvils I'm jealous! 

Here is one of mine being put to good use 

I had already planned to build a 3x3 base of 4x4 and make one side 9 inches taller so I can tie it with constrictor knots

^I like your reasoning, why remove it if it hasn't gotten in the way yet

29 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

When I used one I turned it and used the flattish section projecting downward from where the cigarette filter is  and the curved section to the left of it.  Perhaps not as efficient as the vertical orientation but I could work with it. I think my knuckle was a bit more complete too. IIRC it was about 80 pounds.

Yeah judging by the 10lb sledgehammer I've been using this is maybe about 55lbs. I can always turn it on its side down the road but right now I'm keen having a "pritchel hole". 

Found a chunk of railcar knuckle... debating on it I should take off that shelf or leave it.

Why does my content need to be approved by a moderator lol

Is this a good find for some steel?

Charles I like that stake anvil quite a bit, do you think a power hacksaw could cut through it or?

I can't do that with my angle grinder, but my grandfather has a hacksaw 

Getting closer 

I'm not sure if it helps ,y case but I am dropping the brake drum forge for... box of dirt? Gotta be side blast some can use charcoal in a pinch 

On 1/31/2018 at 7:29 PM, Charles R. Stevens said:

It also includes a fuller, cut off and pritchel holes. For a silver smith including groves such as the early bronze anvils had would be easy enough. If you cut 1” slices off the flange and web you have blanks for making a small double brick, a pan stake and other sheet tools. A track plate makes a dandy tool, plate for those small tools, exceptionally well suited for a silver smith. 

I wish I knew what you meant lol. Groves like early bronze anvil? I searched Google idk maybe you can explain with a picture haha.

Actually I don't know what most of you are talking about half the time. Just kinda hoping some of it sticks at this point 

You guys have such cool tools @_@

I wanted to do a vertical anvil I really did 

2 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

CRS's D2 power chord has to be heard to be believed! 

Good to see another guitar player 

2 hours ago, Charcold said:

Too many American Piddler's out there showing off chopped up rail anvils, making people think they cant even heat up steel without first burning through a pack of cutoff discs and a weekend's worth of labor. Usually not the person's fault, its just bad info getting tossed around like crazy. I thank my lucky stars i was told early and often to stand the rail on end and spend less time on a temporary anvil and more time on the more permanent forge, vice stand, etc. As a pet project these mini anvils make sense, but just too many people wasting time on them only to upgrade shortly after, wasting a weekend or more of prospective forging in the process. 

I really did want to set it up on end but my mother is a silversmith and wanted something with a horn on it. The track was free off my grandpa so what the xxxx I figured worst case it works fine for moving copper.

I have read a lot of the posts you guys recommended, and when Minnesota thaws out I'll go look through the scrap yard.

So no go on welding a step on it, oh well.

Thanks guys for your input! 

So tonight I started cutting away at my railroad track anvil. I am doing horizontal with a horn and step. I figured a 5/8 inch cap on one end would provide me with a flat work surface and a step for making tongs and such.

My question is this: which air hardening steel should I choose? I already ruled out 41xx because I hear it's hard to weld. What's the best option? A-2? 

And would hitting it with a couple jeweler torches for a while and then shooting it with an air compressor work for hardening?

Here's mine lol