CopesyQT

Yes I’ve seen a video on making drifts from mild steel and treating them as consumables. Suppose making sure that the tapers are gentle and you’re not moving a crazy thickness they could still last. also when you say could work better do you mean last longer or would the steel not do the job well?

(Not sure whether I should have made a new topic or not, or if this is even the right place for this but here we go!) I recently made a post about some steels I had given to me, to mix results it seems like they’re not the best for what I wish to do! So, if any of you guys could help with some suggestions on what to use for: 1 - Hot Cut Hardie Tool 2 - A Hammer Eye punch 2 - A Hammer Eye Drift my steel sourcing isn’t great right now so if you could suggest a few or a “family” of usable ones and a good way to acquire them from scrap that would be amazing, also extra points for knowing what the English steel grade is! Also explanations as to why they’re good to use and why certain ones aren’t, if I’m not already asking too much. Any help is appreciated!

I’m not one to shy away from hard work so I’m not against having to make a drift as well, is it just me or is 4140 like the ideal steel for 99% of blacksmithing tools? just managed to find a supplier who can do 3m of 3/4” and up for around £25 who’s only an hour away. Sure that’s far for us English folk but with 3m should keep me going for a few weeks

Thanks for the reply guys, I think for the amount of working I’m currently doing with my tools I could make a punch out of candle wax and get a good few uses out of it. But I’ll really try and get my hands on 4140 which I believe is EN19C if anyone knows?

Hello from the uk!, I’m kinda new to the forging game and decided that a good way to practice and learn techniques is to try and make some of my own tooling. Now im looking to make a hammer eye punch for myself and I have recently been given some 01 tool steel 20mm round stock and some EN16 3/4” round stock from a friend who’s dad used to be into smithing and had recently died. I’m not quite sure of the equivalent grades in SAE but if anyone wants to tell me what it would me that would be great! Im wondering which would be better (if any) for the eye punch, over looking that they could be used for something better. From my understanding there are more suitable steels out there to use but I’m still trying to find a good source of “exotic” steels and I have these lying about, any help is appreciated!

I can get a regulstor that's 0.5-4 rather than 0.5-2 I know the design calls for 15 but I don't know where I can get that regulstor, would 4 not work?

Would you advise moving the mig tip further back as I have it basically inside the burner tube now? I can get it lit and "stable" with around 0.1 psi would you recommend cranking to the full 2psi that my regulator can give? My refractory mortar arrives tomorow (5th in memory old England) so I have that to do first possible issues I can think of: 1.burner tube is wrong length 2.burner tube isn't smooth enough insude 3.intake reducer isn't smooth enough inside 4. My tip is too far in the reducer 5. My 1x1-1/4 reducer is not a good enough flare 6. My flame tube being 1" is too big 7. My intake reducer is too small of a change if you believe it's any of these do say something!

It's not that there isn't room, I'm just wondering is it too far into the reducer to work properly, at that point it's almost inside the pipe. Ive just changed from a 1mm hole to a 0.6mm mig tip but I'm still getting burning inside the tube, any suggestions as to why? I currently have a 1-1/2x3/4 reducer coming and plan to switch to it, out of 10 how much do people think that will help? As for tuning inside the forge im still waiting for customs to deliver my HT mortar

So for my 1" pipe you'd recommend aiming for 3"x1" reducer? Can I put you in camp "get bigger reducer" rather than "get smaller tube" i think my first port of call is to change from a drilled hole to a MIG rip, obviously this wouldn't work with the Bordeaux modification as the tip would be too far inside the reducer... right?

My reducer is 1"X1-1/4", wouldn't this create a rich burn rather than burn inside the tube? i plan on using a 1"X1-1/2" when it arrives, and dremeling out the threads to make it nicer for air flow, would the 1x1/4 make an adequate flare? i know my burner tube is shorter than asked for but surely a longer tube will exacerbate my problems also, would you recommend changing to a 3/4" pipe, I'm not looking for a massive burner but 1" was easier to source. Would I be better to have a 3/4" pipe or a wider reducer??

Yes I do in fact mean 0.5-2 bar, mike It burns quite happily at 0.5bar just inside the burner tube, I've heard there's a burner tube ratio that should be like 9:1 where as I'm below that at 6:1, I have a 1"x12" being delivered soon, and I'm going to dremel the inside of the reducer to make it smoother, any other tips?

Hello everyone I am back to cause headaches for all you nice people! I have committed to following the Ron reil ez burner with Bordeaux modification and I have still run into issues. Mainly the issue is im getting burning down inside the burner tube, I am using a 1x1-1/4" reducer for both intake and flare with a 1"x6" pipe, I have followed the design as closely as possible other than direct sizings, also I have a 1mm hole in the 1/8th nipple rather than a #60, I'm also using a 0.5-2 psi regulator call me stupid and tell me how to correct it! Thanks!

I believe 0.6mm is close to 0.023" but I understand tolerance could make it closer to what the 0.8mm is design to let through. i think I'm doing my self an injustice with saying I can't manage to drill a #60 hole and with UK drills it will probably be closer to 1mm (whatever # that is called) i'll try for pipe straps but for 1/4" is already giving me a headache! I do plan on switching to propane for any real usage im just impatient

motomike, I have some 0.6mm welding tips (0.2... inches) and I am planning on attaching with "U" Bolts as it means i can drill and tap a M5 hole and just use the tips instead of buying and breaking and repeating a #60 drill, obviously this puts the jet further in the reducer but I cant imagine it would be noticeably further forward than in the Bordeaux design

I agree guys, yes if I knew more I could try to redesign for mine to fit it I'm going to concede defeat, luckily a few expensive parts I already have are returnable, I've just ordered the 1/8" pipe for the standard reil EZ burner and I was hoping on using a 0.6m welding tip instead of drilling a #60 hole. does anyone know the name for the "u" bolts mentioned, I've certainly seen them somewhere but searching U bolt brings up latger scale bolts

With the standard reil ez burner, it shows there's two positions for the 1/4" nipple and jet pipe to chose from to surely there's not a whole lot of difference where it is in reason?

You're right frosty, I'm going to wait for my propsne and 2bar regulator and if it doesn't work instantly I'll change the design. espenl, has there been any more news on that haha

Okay first of all you say you know where the jet is in the bore, do you have a measurement for that? As where it is in the photo gave me as close to what I would expect I currently am waiting for the 1"x 1-1/4" reducer to arrive for the flare, xxxx xxxx grant Thompson's part list Also I'm waiting for this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GNZ893G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bwbzAbJDKF1R8 To arrive to hopefully solve my pressure problems Strictly the design called for the jet to be quite far inside the bell, but wouldn't that effect air intake?

Ah yes, unfortunately due to me being an idiot, i got the wrong flare so that's something I need to fix, I kind of bought it so the burner would work outside of the foundry (for show) as I believe the foundry acts as a flare its self in a way

the Thank you Timgunn1962, the link was supposed to be to an Amazon page for a 0.5-4 bar regulstor, -obviously since reading above I'm trying to source a 0-2bar and the propane canister I have coming Is standard Calor 13kg with a POL adapter. At this point it's certainly not impossible to return to a true reil burner, although from what you're saying, it's mainly the lack of pressure that's keeping it from working properly, honestly from the plethora of issues people have bought up in suprised it's as close to working as it is. would having a 1" x 3/4" flare connected to the end of the 1" pipe, essentially having a flare that flares the wrong way negatively effect it? Also I don't quite know what you mean Thomas? On the second photo I feel like the photo doesn't portray it well and I'all show you a cut away drawing tomorow!

I'm adding a pressure gauge soon, would you say something like This would be worth the extra effort to change my set up? Can I expect much better from the propane or do you see any faults?

as you may be able to tell from the photos I'm using the incorrect flare fitting and actually using a 1" down to a 3/4" which i intend to change soon!

Yes I do Motomike, well at least it's very similar, I've made a temporary jig to be able to change where the nozzle is in the reducer so any advice with that would help. im being impatient really and using butane when really I should wait a few days, would butane really effect the preformance that much? Bare in mind it's an old canister in a cold country so pressure might not be high enough?, compiled by butane? I feel as if it's not getting enough oxygen, would removing the threads inside the reducer help? Maybe ports in the nipple? Maybe a better flare? (Kind of getting the burn happening in the tube) sorry for so many questions!

Hi!, I'm trying to build a reil burner pretty much of the 'King of Randoms' design, although due to being in the U.K. My parts aren't dead matching. I'm getting a mainly blue flame but it's very 'soft' and doesn't have that roar I want on full throttle, are any of the following limitations that I'm about to list a possible cause? 1. I'm using a butane canister instead of propane (going shopping soon) 2. It's almost 0 degrees here right now (especially an issue because propane) 3. the bell reducer I'm using is 1.25" instead of the 1.5" the design calls for 4. I haven't dremeled out the threads in the reducer yet any information will be appreciated and I'll try to answer any questions that you need to help, thanks!