Jason Fry

YouTube video of Saw

108 strokes a minute. 
 

IDK for sure how many strokes per minute this one is running, failed to measure that.  I do have a couple of videos on my phone, but no good pics yet, and no videos of it running right. 

This one's chain driven.  I'm not sure if it was an aftermarket modification or what, but it works pretty good.

Wire wheeled the paint off the motor plate and was able to read the wiring diagram.  My diagnosis was correct.  It's amazing how well a motor works if you wire it correctly

So now the saw runs pretty well.  I have some 1.4" solid round 1045 that I was doing test cuts on.  Made a disk .13" thick that was only off by .003 on thickness, and that was with the used blade it came with. 

I'm with Thomas.  Cracking comes either from wood that isn't properly dried, or from mechanical fasteners that are force fit. 

Old Christmas trees are going to give you other problems... that sap will fight your ability to put on a clean finish.

Profiling "skills" come with two things... practice, and drawing.  Doodle/sketch handles ALOT and your ability to see and make shapes that you like will improve.  Then it just becomes a matter of executing the drawing shape onto the knife.

Think I diagnosed it, haven't fixed it yet.  Motor is a 3/4 hp single phase capable of 110 or 220.  Previous owner had it on 220 then re-wired it incorrectly for 110.  Seems to be running on less than full power.  Of course the wiring diagram is covered in paint, but the wires are at least labeled.  Haven't dived back in to figure out how to wire it right yet. 

Interesting idea, definitely worth checking.   If there were wear inside the notch of the cam/eccentric, it would do that.

So I purchased an old Armstrong #2 power hacksaw yesterday off of FB marketplace.  I downloaded the manual, and tonight loosened everything up and oiled it well.  Motor runs and the the machine wants to work, but it's hanging up at the beginning of the draw stroke.  Any ideas on where to start tinkering with it?  

Buzz is correct.  For one, if that's a "15 inch" tire, that refers to the rim only.  Actual diameter is probably 22-24. 

Formula is....

BPM= (motor RPM)/(tire diameter/drive wheel diameter)

Finished out my 666th knife over the weekend.  It's also the first one I've done out of canister Damascus.  The blade and fittings are from the same billet, a "trashcan" billet of ends and pieces canister welded with 1095 powder.  It's also my first time to try a subhilt.  Handle is gidgee. 

Took some still pics last night.

Mine's just a pile of parts at this point   I've got anvil, tup, wheel, hub so far, plus Clay's plans.  I'm actively studying linkages and guide arrangements, as I intend to deviate from the plans a bit to accommodate the parts I'm starting with.

Lol, I hope I get a whoomp and not a TBI on this project.  So far I've got plenty of anvil material, a 30" circle of 1.75 plate at 350 lbs for a base, and I've purchased a tire and hub assembly.  Have to keep selling knives before I can whoomp.

Nice work so far.  I'm in the early stages of a DIY tire build also.  I like your linkage arrangement.

Yep, that's my plan.  Should be able to sell at 40 cents a pound, where the spot rate at the yard is 65, and I'll be making enough to pay for mine.

Well that all just changed, lol.  I went back out there and found even better options.  I think I'll end up with a 12 by 12 round with a 7.5 by 22 on top.  May put it on one of those 2" plates also.  655 in two pieces without the plate

He's giving me a good price.  I'm going to buy everything suitable for PH anvils and flip some of it.  If you can "flip" a 300 pound thingamabob.

Has a 6.5 by 48", 451 lbs. and a whole lot more. 

That’s what I’m hoping, that the sheer mass will overcome the challenges of the joints. Thinking 50 to 60 lb tup, haven’t got that far yet.  

Joints, yes.  Haven't decided on bolt together with brackets vs. welding it around the perimeters.  Moveability later is a consideration, as I don't intend to stay in this house forever.

I'm thinking possibly weld the 6.5 to the 14.5, and triangular gussets?  Then bolt the rest?  Heck, IDK, lol.

Made a trip to the steel yard, and was offered the friend price if I bought from the scrap pile outside.  Drew this up....

I'm thinking 12" timbers underneath.  The 2" layer is a 2 by 24 round piece of mild.  The 14 by 7 is round, and the top 6.5 is round.  Total weight minus timbers is the numbers on the right, roughly 650.

Will this be better, worse, or equal to a similar weight of round stock?

Spring loaded blacksmithy trebuchet.  Now we're getting somewhere.

Excellent resource and time waster

http://www.virtualtrebuchet.com/

Dang it, Thomas, now I have another rabbit trail I didn't need.  Saw a guy who rigged a trebuchet with the pivot only about 1 meter high to throw a tennis ball at 100 mph with only 15 kg of weight.  Now I'm thinking about how much velocity you could get out of a 75 lb weight throwing concrete dixie cups

Heck yeah

It's only about 12 by 12 by 4.  Not going to be useful for much, although I'm going to keep it around.  Didn't overpay for an anvil, but did overpay for an ASO, so no real chance to pass it on and recover my investment.