beef56

Thanks for the information. It helps and gives me some ideas!

That makes sense. I was thinking what you call the rivet tongs might be for hold a drift or chisel. A lot of flat tongs but they can be revamped for other tongs I believe. Not all are extremely useful but the price was right. I did get the forge and blower pictured in the background so I now have a coal forge too. 

My friend gave me these tools. I am not sure what the 4th and 5th tongs from the right are or their purpose, can you give me some assistance? Thanks 

Thanks fellows for the information. Is it imperative to line the forge? It won't be used that often. It has some rust but no deep pitting.  

It doesn't vibrate much, just a slight grinding noise. I will change the oil to 30 wt. Hope that helps. Thanks Frosty!

This outfit belonged to my father-in-law, the rest of the family members didn't want it so I ended up with it. I am pleased as I have a  propane forge and this will be a welcome addition to my shop. The blower works ok, if you crank it counterclockwise. It cranks hard and is noisy if you crank clockwise. I added ATF fluid. Does this make sense? 

On 2/19/2022 at 5:54 PM, TWISTEDWILLOW said:

I have a couple of old cast iron cream separator stands similar to that one, I haven’t found a use for yet, I might experiment with one an mount an anvil to it to see how well they hold up,

This is the same stand I am using. I have used it for 30 years and my wife's grandpa had an anvil on it before that. I think it is durable enough but upright wood or steel may provide more mass. When it warms a bit I plan to build one, it was -17 last night so is still chilly in the shop!

48 minutes ago, Michael said:

Nice anvil, nice stand! Does that stand increase the ring over the the wood? 

 

Yes it is louder than the wood. My HB was quiet on this stand but it won't be a problem to quiet it. 

It is cast. It has held up for many years under ASO and my HB. I am not sure it is the best material but I wanted to  get it mounted it and use it! I will build a decent wooden stand. Thank you, I like the looks of it too!

This is how I mounted it last night. I will put some silicone under it and later will build a stand using the 5x6 posts I have. It definitely has a ring at the heel end, will need some silicone under it. A magnet works good but will not stay in place when hammering.  

Ok, a bead wouldn't be bad. I thought people were covering the entire base. 

I have some better 5x6 lumber I plan to stand on end, bolt and glue together. The reason I am hesitant to use silicone is the cleanup if I change to a different  stand. I have some conveyor belting, not soft or rubbery so it shouldn't easily compress. Has anyone tried something like this? 

The anvil isn't very loud without anything under it but it could be more quiet. 

It will be inside and in SD we have low humidity. I  could use rubber belting under the anvil but thought the aluminum was more dense and might provide a firmer base. 

I got this new Holland anvil today. I put it on this pile of lumber to check the ringing. Surprising considering this makeshift pile of lumber it is quite quiet. Just a little ringing when lightly struck at the heel. I put this 1/2" aluminum plate under the anvil and it eliminated any ringing. How will the steel and aluminum react?  I think the aluminum may react to the steel. Any ideas?

I have been looking at Holland. Not much out there for reviews. It looks like they are out of stock on most models. xxxx Covid!

I didn't think I "needed " a new anvil, I just "wanted" one. I know it won't improve my craftsmanship but thought one a bit heavier would be easier to move material. I will build a different base, probably 6x6 on end and give that a try. I still may order a 165 lb Peddinghaus if I can find one discounted. I wish I could find a Hay Budden in good condition in that weight area. Thanks for all the information !

3 hours ago, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

Beef56, you will be better served getting the anvil off of the separator stand on onto a proper one that is either wood, or fabricated out of steel.

Post a picture up of the anvil you have now, so we can take a look at it. Many times what newbies call rough is actually no big deal condition wise.

I "THINK" I need an anvil heavier than this 125. Maybe a better base is the answer. I appreciate all the suggestions!

I have the HB 125 chained down to a cast milk separator stand. Maybe not ideal for mass but it is easy to slip an appliance cart under it and roll it into the middle of the shop floor. I will turn 66 shortly so I plan to do something with wheels if I do get another anvil. 

On 11/28/2017 at 10:42 AM, Frosty said:

Were I to buy new I'd probably look into Rhino anvils, located in Eastern Washington, or one of the others made I believe in the mid west. Shipping can be a killer, try living in Alaska for a clear view, so if the quality is there I look as locally as possible.

That's just me though. 

Frosty The Lucky.

You mention Rhino, do you  or anyone else have any experience with this anvil? Thanks 

I should consider how portable the anvil is. I will need to move it every time I use it. I  imagine the 210 anvil would be manageable but the 165 would be easier.  

I knew I has screwed up with the iron comment, lol.

I haven't looked at NIMBA and not Holland recently. I  did research the Rhino but just don't care for the look of that anvil. I would like to find a nice larger HB but they are hard to find, especially in South Dakota.. It seems the Refflinghaus is priced well above the competition. 

32 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

So far you haven't told us if your needs couldn't be covered by a US$35 block of steel from a scrapyard.    Remember 1000 hours working on a $100 anvil will make you a much better smith than 100 hours working on a $1000 anvil!

I imagine I could use a $35 block of iron but that isn't what I am interested in buying! I am a very novice iron beater. I  have been at it about three years and have so much to learn. I  have a 125 Hay Budden which the face and the radius are a rough. I doubt I would be forging any material more than 1/2" thick. I  definitely don't need a new anvil but at my age I think I want one and was just looking for ideas comparing the two anvil manufacturers. Thanks in advance for any advise.

This is an old post I am hijacking. I can buy a 165lb Peddinghaus for $1,200 or a 205/210 lb Refflinghaus for $2,350. Is the Refflinghaus actually $1,150 better? I don't mind spending the money if it is justified. 

15 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Well within "normal wear and tear". If you worry about stress concentrators you can always round them gently.  You can also limit the work to the anvil---no cutting 3" stock with a 16# sledge on a hardy in that hardy hole for instance.  (I have an anvil missing it's heel that I let students use to prove to themselves they are NOT ready for using a sledge!)

What do you recommend using to round the edge? Flap disc?

This is the serial number on the anvil. Thanks