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Posts posted by Jack S
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Hello I've been forging for a little over 3 year and have had alot of success doing canister demascus. I have a set process and never waiver. I clean all the canister can and ends with acetone and rinse with clean water and dry. Use fresh whiteout and dry whiteout until it just doesn't look wet but not powdery. Weld the end caps inside tubing. It will reduce blowout when setting the weld. I also drill a 1/8 cent hole in the side/end of canister. If you don't have a vent hole the canister will expand and my crack the tube. Hope this helped.
Note: I also clean and rinse the chain/bandsaw blade pieces with acetone to remove grease and rust and then rinse with Clean water and dry.
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Just a little over 20 tons I'm told by the hydraulic guys I talk too.
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What are some good substitutes for ferric acid to etch demascus. Any home concoctions?
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Wow I need help. I cut up 3 pieces of a leaf spring and tried to forge them together. I ground of all the surface rust mig welded all the joints together. Then ground all the weld added a rebar for handle. I have a 2 burner forge with fire brick and have no problem heating to a non magnetic temp. Started stretching the metal it all looked good at first . Doubled length and width let cool and cut apart to double over and it just fell apart. Any suggestions [HELP]
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Ok guys there is a lot of discussion about fluxes I would like to use a simple Flux Of just borax and boric acid what ratios do you all wear commend
Canister Damascus questions
in Knife Making
Posted
Yes I put the end caps inside the tubing. I use a press to set the welds if I put the caps on the ends they buckle out even more and I loose pressure and end up with delams on the ends of the billet. Just built a new benchtop 25 ton press really helps with demascus. Just finished a nice 208 layer piece for my daughter.
Just started making sheaths for my blades. New tools and different skills but adds alot.