Thidwick

The advice was to keep the burner moving back and forth over the wet blanket , but it's going to be a tough fit in there with a flaming burner. Maybe I misinterpreted the directions.

The guidance says that the burner should be used to dry and cure the rigidizer after its applied to the ceramic blanket. Would a heat gun be sufficient to dry it before troweling on the refractory cement? I presume the forge will get hot enough to "melt" the silica even after kast-o-lite (or whatever) is added and cured, yes?

Hi Everyone, I'm located in Raleigh, NC and just got into blacksmithing after taking a couple classes. I have a few things projects going on at the same time right now: Building a forge from a repurposed 11 gallon air tank. 2 frosty tee burners. Building a controller for a DC motor to be eventually used in a belt grinder. Upgrading my cheap harbor freight 90A welder to be DC. That about sums me up: a serial amateur... hobbyist... lifelong learner!

Frosty I noticed in the PDF that the ratio specified for the air intake is 2*D. Why does the reference design use a 1"x1"x3/4" reducing tee if the pipe is 3/4"? I'm missing something. Edit: I meant to post this to the T burner directions thread.