Danjmath

Thanks, I'll have too look more into it, because the cheap stuff is the 6 pound.

What is the effective difference between 6 and 8, just the insulating value?(I remember there was some technical term for that from when I built my pizza oven, but I can't say what it is now.)

I am building a propane tank forge, and found a local supplier that has ceramic blanket for a really good price. Problem is, is that it is only rated for 2200 continuous use, 2300 max. Is that going to be high enough? I do plan on covering in Sodium silicate, then Kast-O-Lite.

Thanks.

On 10/6/2017 at 8:10 PM, Danjmath said:

Here is a video of my 3/4" T-burner inside my temporary fire-brick forge.

I don't have a gauge, but I start off at about 3-5 psi, the lowest I can keep the flame going, then about 20-25 seconds I get up to what I guess is about 15 PSI (about half way to maximum on my 0-30 regulator). I am having a hard time dialing in the burner since it is only 4" from the forge floor. Do I need to make the forge a little higher, or trim my MIG tip any more? Thanks,

So my firebrick forge interior is going to be 9"x4.5"x4", so 162 cu inches. I was just worried that that small of an area would be too small and negatively affect the burner, or the flame would be too close to fire-brick surface.

Also with a t-burner, does horizontally vs vertically mounted make any difference?

Slightly important detail.... it's a 3/4"

I just want to say that I was intimidated by building a burner/forge, but this was ridiculously easy. I couldn't find a tap-wrench to fit the 1/8" pipe tap(they were sold out unless I wanted to buy a $60 tap wrench/bit kit.) and I was stupid and wanted to look down my drill hole before using the tap, so my first attempt was not quite perfectly vertical, but the 2nd time I did it exactly according to directions, and it looks great.

My flame keeps blowing itself out, or "wooshing" at low pressure, but I am pretty sure it is just rich, and and I need to trim the mig tip down more. Just waiting to get a forge before I final-tune it.

Is there a "minimal viable size" for a forge with this burner? I have a bunch of fire brick left over from a pizza oven I built, and want to mess around with while I await my kao-wool, and was going to build a small brick-pile forge for a small knife I'm working on, so I don't need much space at all.

Also, just out of curiosity, what effect would it have if I used my off-skelter original T, so the injector wasn't spraying strait down the pipe?

I bought the wrong type of regulator for my tank (I got a 100 gallon tank with threads on the inside), and went to my local welding store. The offered to sell me a regulator that would work for my tank for ~$110(it wasn't overpriced, it just was way more than I needed, up to like 150 PSI, 2 gauges etc), or for $5.50 they sold me the parts to convert my existing $20 amazon regulator to work with my tank.

Not sure if that is an option for you, but propane/welding suppliers I have found to be very knowledgeable and helpful people.

I also found adapters on Amazon, so that would be another place to look.

I'm glad you asked this. I am in almost the exact same situation. I built a pizza oven not long ago and have some left over heavy duty fire brick. I thought about using refractory cement, but that seems like in doing that, you loose the advantage of being able to re-stack the bricks.

I did the frosty 3/4" t-burner, and eventually plan on building a propane-tank-type forge, but until then planned on using a firebrick one.

Hopefully this isn't hi-jacking too much, but what is the best way to mount the burner on a brick-pile forge?