Brian Evans

Hello, first off I am sorry that I do not have any pictures at the moment, I will update with pictures when I am able.

I would like to know what kind of steel railroad track connectors are made from (to be clear this is not railroad track). From what I have seen on the web my guess is that it is made from the same high carbon steel that railroad track is made from. However I was not able to get an actual confirmation on it. I was hoping that I could make hardy hole tools from it as well as other items that require good steel.

For those who are curious as to how I got a railroad track connecting rod: I work at a place that uses railroads and it was leftover junk that I was permitted to take.

thank you all

what is the best way to make charcoal? I normally use coal

Thanks guys, I shall turn my blower down more. I was just using pine scraps when I fired it.

I made a JABOD design forge and decided to have the final coating be refractory cement instead of dirt. (Hercules brand refractory cement/mortar) Due to the very flowy nature of the cement I wanted to fire it before I made it look nice (hence the ridges and bumps). After waiting 2 days (4 hours to dry was recommended) I lit it up and afterwards the fire pot was green and looked like it was glass almost. Have any of you encountered this? Should I worry?

Yes I know it looks hideous at the moment.

 

 On a more positive note, nice wood shop. 

I will still be hand forging a lot, I just have large chunks of metal I need to move around and my back isn't liking the hammering I am doing. 

Thanks about the wood shop, but the tools you see aren't mine. Mine are elsewhere in the shop. 

 

Turn that chunk o' steel up on end. That will give your anvil a LOT more rebound.

I may do that, I hadn't thought of that. I will probably cut a rectangular piece out of the stump and fit it in that way. 

Thank you

 

Your wooden uprights won't be strengthened by boxing the frame. Also your frame appears to be put together with nails or screws. Those won't hold up to the vibration from continuous impacts. I suggest through bolts reinforced with metal brackets and locknuts. Just remember, designing your own has much more risk than using a proven plan

You are probably right about using through bolts I will look into that (I used screws). 

I plan on being safe. I have a foot pedal that I will be using to make sure it doesn't stay on longer than it should. 

What do you mean by box the frame in?

I am making a power hammer and am not sure a wooden frame is up to the task. As I do not have access welder or nor the knowledge of how to use one I have made a frame out of wood. I have enclosed a picture of the design and of my frame (I am not done with it). What do you guys think? 

I can jump on the frame and it barely moves. As I have never used one before I don't know about the stresses that the hammering puts on the machine. 

Thank you, I was not aware I could do that. 

I got a drill press (with hundreds of bits) and a wood/metal lathe (with 20+ tools and attachments) yesterday for 200$. Yes they are old but they work and seem to have been taken care of. Pics are from the place I bought them from. 

On 9/11/2017 at 1:01 PM, Elemental Metal Creations said:

Went to a friends house this weekend and was looking at an old drill press he had is his garage. 

I literally just got the same thing yesterday. Only you got it for free 

14 hours ago, Glenn said:

Always remember to use the repurposed vacuum on the blow setting. 

You may want to lower the vacuum below the level of the forge. When no air is moving into the fire, the air pipe COULD fill with gasses and when you start blowing air again, there could be an ignition and explosion in the system. It is not uncommon with bellows, etc.

Fuel does not make the fire hot, AIR makes the fire hot. Only use the amount of air necessary to get the amount of heat you need from the fuel you are using. If the damper system does not work to your scarification, then leave an air gap of 3 or so inches in the piping. If you want more air, aim a little closer, for less air aim not so close.

I would like to see the way the air enters the fire from the bottom of the forge, whether it is in one spot, or via a T, and then exactly how the air is allowed out of the pipe in the bottom of the forge.

Hahaha, I did that on accident once and I couldn't figure out why it wasn't working for a while. 

After I use my forge I most of the time take it apart so there is no chance of the gasses in the air vents. However I did not know that that could be a problem, glad I know that now. 

The air enters the forge by a t joint and two pipes. The air enters the fire by drilled holes in the pipe (the outer ends of the pipe are capped) . The holes are an inch and a half separated from each other. Originally I would have a grate above the pipe but it kept melting and after using it a few times realised that it would work without the grate. 

29 minutes ago, the iron dwarf said:

light or heavy hammer?

light or heavy work?

get some thin ply or hardboard and put it on the anvil, stand comfortably and using your favorite hammer hit it,

if you get an arc with the open side away from you it is too high

open side towards you it is too low

a circle and it is right for that stance with that hammer and your present ability but things can change.

the first thing you do on a course at my place is to show us how badly you stand and hold a hammer

I shall do that, thank you. 

3 minutes ago, JHCC said:

Stand comfortably in your work boots. Make a fist. The top of the anvil should be between the knuckles of your fist and the line of your wrist. The lower height is better if you're going to have someone swinging a sledgehammer on a regular basis, and the higher is better for solo hand forging.

I'm mostly alone in my workshop so no sledgehammers. How high should it be, I am 6'2 and want to minimize back problems from this.  

2 hours ago, the iron dwarf said:

some paint stripper will help and then try lighting it from different angles

Should I try using acetone?

1 hour ago, JHCC said:

By the way, concrete is generally not considered a good material for an anvil base, as it tends to crumble, crack, and chip over time. If it's at a good height for you now, go ahead and use it, but be prepared to have to replace it fairly soon.

It does seem to look like concrete but it is a painted piece of wood. Thanks for the tip though. 

I am not actually sure what height I should have. Is there a way to tell?

I use charcoal to start the fire then go to coal, I find coal burns more cleanly and evenly (versus charcoal). Do you have a lot of heat escaping in yours? That is my main worry. I want my forge to be efficient. 

21 hours ago, George Geist said:

It's a Hay-Budden.

Try to get the numbers off the base and somebody on here will tell you the year it was made

Good score

George

I can't make out the numbers unfortunately, any help with this?

1 hour ago, JHCC said:

I will leave it to the bladesmith people to address this, but my understanding is that you don't even need a full-length forge to heat treat blades.

You have chosen the path of wisdom.

Check out the JABOD (Just A Box Of Dirt) threads for a great low-cost way to build a forge. You could probably convert what you've got fairly easily, especially if you use the vacuum and gate valve. Another option is the recent JAPOB forge (Just A Pile Of Bricks), since you already have the firebrick.

Keep us posted!

I will keep you posted, I'm buisy the next few days though because of work. 

I did make it so I would be able to heat treat blades. The bricks are moveable and the airflow is guaged by a gate valve near the vacuum. The piping is threaded and designed so I can use half of the forge if desired. 

After trying one blade I decided to start with smaller things like wall sconces and wait till I get better. 

Should I make a different forge? And only have one fire pit like I see in many forges?

3 hours ago, Frosty said:

Do you at least feel a LITTLE guilty? Not for scoring such a deal but for making all of us envy you so much?

Frosty The Lucky.

I do feel a little guilty but considering I was using a smooth rock beforehand I don't feel too guilty

6 hours ago, Irondragon Forge & Clay said:

Welcome to the forum. If you put your location in your profile you may be surprised how many of the gang are close to you and a lot of answers are location dependent.

Now on the deal you got. Did you have to wear a mask when you picked it up?

If I were you I would run right out and but a lottery ticket, getting that anvil for $50 is akin to winning the lottery. I'm green with envy too.

No mask but I definitely know that this was one of those once in a lifetime deals. I read that Hays Budden are the "cadalac of anvils" I am curious as to why they are considered that. 

I made this forge out of an old cast iron sink, metal gardening stakes, fire bricks, pipes and a repurposed vacuum. 

You don't see in the picture but the back of the sink is to be used as a top for it to help keep in the heat. And I did elivate the higher over the air vent. I use coal as fuel. 

If anyone has any tweaks or tips on how to improve it I would be grateful.

Thanks

Yeah I just joined this forum haven't figured out everything to it yet. I mostly joined to get the answer to my question but seeing how active it is I have decided to stay. Seems like a great community. 

Thanks for identifying it. I got it for 50$ from someone who wanted it gone. I will have to find that number

I purchased this anvil today and I cannot find what the make of this anvil is. I am happy to have gotten it as I have been looking for one for several months. By my estimate I think it is around 200lbs with the chain and block. There are some letters that I can make out but none of it seems to correlate with any brands I have researched. 

Any help identifying this would be appreciated.