Binesman

Ty frosty that puts it around a #56. Do you happen to know the mathematical formula? 

It will be a T for but I didn't think that mattered for the formula does it?  My apologies for not mentioning it in the start as I didn't think it made a dif.

I know there is a formula for this.  and if someone could please give me the formula I would greatly appreciate it.  I am making a new forge it will use 1" NA burners.  What size oriface do I need to drill for them to take 600 cubic inches to forge welding temp (under the assumption the forge is properly built and insulated).  Thank You.

that's what you are aiming for.  If you have everything set for a nice neutral when you get to temp you will see very little as far as flames.

yes you are not drawing enough oxygen someone like mikey or frosty would be better at recommended a possible solution with your set up.  My recommendation is to just build a T burner following the directions on here.  it will work for you as is it just won't work to the best parameters.   As for the dragons breath having large billowing wisps is an indicator you are running rich because you are not getting full combustion in the chamber.

your flame looks a smidge on the green side to me in the photo with it heated and running at 8 psi.  The photo at 4psi looks a lot green but I have a feeling that is because of the low pressure stopping you from drawing as much air.  and you have a good bit of dragons breath so yeah you're running rich.  can I see a photo of the burner please?  I know you said it was a riel style but there's a lot of different design's.  Also did you drill the orifice or did you use a migtip?  and what size?

I've taken to calling them Z bricks not sure if that is there actual name.  They are just a softbrick made from zirc instead of mulite.  I've only used a few but they seem to work as well if not better then the K series.  However I do not believe the price difference is worth it.  I pay about 4.50 to 6 for K26 bricks(depending on who has them) I pay 9 to 15 per brick for zirc.   http://www.ktrefractories.com/Zircon-Bricks.cfm

ask pottery stores for zircopax

https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/64996-building-a-firebrick-forge/

i wouldn't cement them they just need pressure.  The video will show you one way to obtain it.  however mikey is correct once it's together put a thin layer of refractory like kastolite or satanite then coat it in a kiln wash and you are good to go.  (assuming you are using morgan K series brick and i also thing the new Z bricks that are being designed would work)

If you are going to build with firebrick, use morgan k series brick and apply pressure on all 3 axis hight width length.  Softfirebrick will crack even k series from thermal cycling pressure will keep it from falling appart.

I use a mixture of roughly 70%zirconium 25%kaolin 5%boron  don't know what the final cost is but it's pretty cheap.

Ive purchased from this maker before.  They are good burners.  However they have an issue below 8 to 9 psi withback burning.  Thats what you are getting.  Simply turn up your regulator a little.

Sorry I misread.  I thought you stated you were still loosing preasure while in the water bath.  Not that it had solved the issue.  Construction all looks good.  And the forge should run fine.  So that means your problem is in the burner.  Ive yet to make a ribbon burner so cant help a lot there.

here's the no science answer.  You turn on your tank it runs good but it then freezes.  Once it freezes it don't run good no more.  bigger tank less cold more good.

I couldn't even begin to calculate btu etc.  I get about 12 to 14 hours of yellow heat from a 20# tank (that's running the full 4.7gallons when I empty a tank it is empty)

Honestly I think the 20lb tank is your problem.  You heat up fast because the tank isn't frozen yet then it freezes and cant push the gas to heat the forge faster.  Try a bigger tank or get a converter to link 2 - 20#.  But to test the theory before you spend money put your propane tank in a bucket full of water and see if it acts better (I think you will still get freeze up with the amount you are drawing but it will take a good 20 minutes longer) 

Do you see steam when you shut the forge down?  If you oversaturated your blanket and then did not dry it that could be a problem and it also heats the outside up a lot because its hot steam.  Beyond that possability I dont know what I see looks good.  Can you post a video of it running please.  Hmmm.   What size propane tank are you using?

You can attempt to make do with what you have, however its going to fall apart and be dangerous.  Plaster of Paris can not hold up to the temps we run it.  It certainly can not hold up to the direct flame contact it will get from a 3/4" burner.  I understand the I want to forge know and I support it.  If thats the case lool in the solid fuel forge section and make a sideblast forge.  Because what you have will not work.

An hour to reach yellow heat is a massive issue.  It is more than just hard firebrick in the floor.  So lets start with your full design?  Including burner and regulator along with some video of the forge running and how you tune oxygen?

You are not asking for help.  You are asking for information.  That shows you have an interest in learning, which in turn gives us an interest in providing you with good information.

I'm guessing you've already been building   or at least I hope you have been.  the "flare" isn't as important as you would think with a T burner.  I build a bit of one in on my forgers either through forming the castable or by cutting firebrick.  Other than that I don't use a flare on my forges.

Quick and dirty is the best option here.  It works very well and is removable so when you decide to make something big or with strange bends it's not as complicated.

Use the forge for a few days.  That cement is meant to hold bricks together not be a hotface.  It will start to come off on it's own pretty quick.

well that "cheap" refractory is costing you a lot of fuel.  I know that kastolite seems expensive but the money you save in fuel makes up for 100's of times over.   Also IFI sales it in 5# bags for only 15.  That is more than enough to properly coat your forge and do repairs.  https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/61871-kast-o-lite-30/

kastolite has no issues grabbing on to EVERYTHING.  as for the blanket just ridgidize it first.  that will stiffen it up plenty for the kastolite.  I have also been putting a layer of zirc wash on to my blanket before my refractory as of late.  It seems to give me a little faster heat up time, but it could just be old eyes and insanity.