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1776

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Posts posted by 1776

    Cast Iron repair

    in Problem Solving

    Posted

    On 4/11/2017 at 1:27 AM, Alan Evans said:

    JHCC's suggestion is the Rolls Royce version, and would look best / closest to the original.

    If you do not to want to put in the time for piercing the complete backplate, the strength of support for the actual break would be achieved with less than an inch of brass either side, sufficient to get a good bond.  You could then use further strips top and  bottom to maintain the plane of the backplate against the wall...

    Based on the "make a mistake...make it a feature" philosophy....an even simpler solution would be to mount the two pieces of iron on a back plate/shield. A glass mirror, a panel of wood, stainless steel or brass the size of the blanket background in your photograph neatly chamfered, to suit the position and room decor.

    Mirrors and mirror polished brass and stainless steel are often used as reflectors to enhance the candle light. 

    The TIG rods I use for dissimilar metals are either 29/9s, 312 or 23/12s, 309. I have found the 312 works really well for all sorts...tool steel hammer pallets, mild to stainless, even silicon bronze to stainless. I found them far better for dissimilar than the stainless specific 304 or 316 rods. Indeed great for everything...apart from cast iron, I have never had success welding it. I will only go for silver solder or braze for that now.  But I would not attempt to solder, braze or weld your piece for fear of further damage, you do not know what other areas were strained before the break happened where it did. There may be cracks running parallel to the break on either side...

    A backplate reinforcing of some sort using glue is definitely wise. 

    Alan

    Thanks!

    Buying Damascus

    in Knife Making

    Posted

    On 4/5/2017 at 2:18 PM, JHCC said:

    1776, ...and you can afford one of JPH's:

    DO IT!!!

    Well, thats the bite now isn't it. ;) Got a little bit of a pinch on cash right now. Dang it. Kinda been on a shoe string for a bit. But hey, thats the way it goes some times. If I wasn't in this position, I'de take your advice. But the world is a cold hard place sometimes. No Damascus for me... :(

    First few knives

    in Knife Making

    Posted

    On 4/3/2017 at 7:37 AM, JHCC said:

    Good start! Keep up the good work!

    1776, if you're going to quote a post, please delete any part of it that you're not specifically replying to, especially pictures. Extra text and images really eat up bandwith, and (believe it or not) some of our members still access the site with dial-up.

    Yeah... sorry about that. I'll remember next time.

    Cast Iron repair

    in Problem Solving

    Posted

    17 hours ago, JHCC said:

    Based on my experience from the art restoration studio, a big thumbs-up to the epoxy and repair plate idea. There's nothing quite as bad as realizing that the repair that you're attempting is (A) making things worse and (B) irreversible.

    Here's what I would do, were I in your situation. Get a piece of sheet brass a bit bigger than the backplate of the candle holder and trace the entire pattern onto it: wreath, eagle, heart, everything. Then using a jeweler's saw and some needle files, cut and file the brass so that each element is a hair smaller than the cast iron element that it backs up. Then clean the back of the cast iron and epoxy the brass in place. Clean off the excess epoxy before it hardens: a sharpened popsicle stick, q-tips, and acetone are good for this.

    This will give you the greatest possible surface area for adhering the brass to the cast iron, will add a structural element that strengthens the entire piece, and will be essentially invisible from the front.

    Thanks, I'll be giving this a try.

     

    Cast Iron repair

    in Problem Solving

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Jim Coke said:

    Greetings 1776,

    Like Thomas said I am for a thin repair plate with epoxy or JB.   It will last forever..  Most cast like that is very porous and I sure would not heat it to brazing temperatures.  Just this ol boys 2c 

    Forge on and make beautiful things 

    Jim

    Hmmmm. I guess it can't hurt. I'll give it a try.

     Thanks

    Cast Iron repair

    in Problem Solving

    Posted

    25 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

    Brazing or JB Weld would be my suggestions  Most of the "strongest" methods will have a very visible repair zone on them! Epoxying a mending plate on the back also comes to mind---easy to remove if you decide on another method.

    So, what type of brazing? Keep in mind, this is going to be hanging on the wall, and used.

    Harbor Freight Anvil

    in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels

    Posted

    Thanks guys, I guess I'll stick with my rail road track anvil until I run across a good anvil.

    23 hours ago, Kozzy said:

    Those are great anvils for reenacting old road-runner cartoons if you happen to have a coyote around showing off his wiles.  That and doorstop are uses for which those are eminently suitable.

    Haha

    Cast Iron repair

    in Problem Solving

    Posted

    So, I've got a old antique candle holder that broke. It is cast iron, from what I can tell. I've been looking around trying to figure out how to repair cast iron. It seems there are two options for me; #1 Castaloy. #2 Welding.

     Of the two, Castaloy seems the easiest. I've never welded, but we do have a welding shop in town. And with my forge (being able to heat the cast iron up to 1500+) , I'm pretty sure I could get it welded.

     Of the two, which one seems to be the strongest, and most reliable method. Also, which method have you done?

     I'm really nerves about this one, It is an antiques, from my family. So a family heirloom. And I don't want to mess it up even more.

     Thanks guys!

     

    1776

    P1010033.JPG

    ASAP Tempering help please

    in Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc

    Posted

    Got it. I did temper right after I quenched my blade, two times actually. I think I've got the idea now. Stormcrow gave me some pointers. He is awesome.

     Thanks a ton guys, I'm going to put my blade in the oven for one last temper. Than I'll wrap the handle, and than sharpen it. I'll make a thread for it, and post pictures when I'm done.

     Once again, thanks a tons guys. I couldn't do what I'm doing with out you guys on iforgeiron!

    ASAP Tempering help please

    in Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc

    Posted

    7 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

    Hope it works out. And yeah, 2 tempering cycles already? Doubt bad bad things would happen. Haven't heard the dunking in water thing after the tempering cycle tho. I'll have to re read what I've read. :huh:

    I had heard something about dunking it in water... but couldn't remember where I saw it. Then Stormcrow told me to do it. So I did it. Made more sense anyways.

    9 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

     And if Stormcrow was guiding you on what he had more experience with I would ask him.

    Yeah, I'll get in touch with him.

    ASAP Tempering help please

    in Heat Treating Knives, Blades etc

    Posted

    2 minutes ago, Frosty said:

    I wouldn't sweat letting your blade sit till the oven's free, you have two cycles on it now. Frosty the non-bladesmith guy say so. Fr what that's worth. :blink:

    Frosty The Lucky.

    Thats kinda what I was thinking... but I really don't want to mess this one up. First blade, and I want it to turn out the best it can.

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