SkoobyNewb

Other than a block heater or something along those lines, what do you guys do to keep your tank from freezing solid during the winter months? Could I just dump a bottle of windshield washer fluid in it? Or would this have too much of an negative impact on the quenching process? 

2 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

I was assuming he planned to get it resurfaced by building it up rather then by milling or grinding it down; it's the only way that makes sense after all.

Yes, I was told that there are specific welding sticks that work great for exactly this.

3 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

Skooby, there is only so much hardened top plate on that anvil. Resurfacing it is taking usability and life Out of it. How long have you used it as is? 

Got it in the spring,  the guys at NEBA said it wouldn't be bad to resurface and that its an industrial anvil shipped over from a large shop in England at around 200 years old or so.

Plan on getting it professionally resurfaced to fix that missing chunk and the various dings on the face.

Just thought that this may generate some good chatter. My question is this; what do you find yourself doing while your iron is in the forge? 

I tend to organize, sweep up cold slag, and get a bit of grinding in on future and uncompleted projects. Well and of course check iforgeiron posts lol

Also, am I the only one with headphones in while working? If not, what's your forging playlist?

I have been on a Moonshine Bandits kick lately around the forge. But there's not much for music that people would be surprised to hear I listen to lol

3 hours ago, JHCC said:

 By the way, where are you in New Hampshire? And have you linked up with the New England ABANA affiliate yet? 

I haven't yet, my father has though; he goes to the open forges they host. I've gotten alot of tips from him. Unfortunately for me, those events are on a day i work, so I haven't had the chance . 

1 hour ago, JHCC said:

 BP0011 - Common Railroad Steels  says that a grade 1 tie plate has 0.15% C. 

Thanks, Im wondering where the others got their info.

On 11/11/2016 at 10:06 PM, JHCC said:

Key question: decent for what? Knifemaking? Decorative railings? Guillotine tools? Nails?

(Probably not nails.)

Anything really, most likely knife making or something decorative I could use as a Christmas gift . 

On 11/12/2016 at 1:15 AM, Frosty said:

Where did you come by the 1050 spec for tie plates? That sounds pretty rich for the use but I don't have the specs handy. I believe Thomas has several sites for RR steel specs.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

With looking at several different forums and sites the only one I heard quoted was 1050

Through my research, Ive found that it's most likely 1050. And to be honest Im still new enough at all this to not really know if that's good or not. I know it won't be as hard as good knife steel like 1080 or 1095; but would it still be decent steel to work with?

Does anybody know what type of steel railroad tie plates are made of? 

Thank you everybody, it is all very appreciated 

Thank you all for the advice, it's truly appreciated . As for buying better stock, I haven't been able to locate a local vender for good steel that will deal with a private buyer at the quantity I would be buying. I see good stock for sale online, however the shipping costs usually end up higher than my actual purchase cost. Which may just be something I'll have to get over for the time being.  Arfist, I love that list; thank you. I'm honestly not even 100% about what 100% of those things are. Which is all the better; it let's me look more things up and learn even more. I know from just my limited experience so far, that I'm in dire need of certain tools. I've got absolutely nothing for the hardy, and only a ground 2x6 for any kind of swage. And tongs that won't help me add any more burn marks to the floor would be nice lol

Thank you all for the much appreciated advice. I did definitely enjoy making those hooks, and of course the second one seemed much easier. Im sure with enough practice I could whip out those things with ease. 

So I'm roughly a month into forging, and still wouldn't dream of calling myself a blacksmith yet. I've created a few things that Ive posted on here, and am somewhat proud of what I've figured out on my own with trial and error and of course google. Clean solid forge welding is still tough for me (tried some mokume gane and some chainsaw blade damascus and it was a disaster, however i made a decent weld with an old wrench head), but i feel i have gotten a VERY BASIC  feel for shaping and getting there with hammer control. My question is this, what is a good project to work on to  hone my limited skills with the material I have to work with? My materials are at this point only Lowes bought stock and RR spikes. I would love some suggestions as to what I should be working on to "get there". 

So after 2 failed attempts (I don't want to talk about it lol) at some mokume gane this morning, i decided to make another heart hook as my project today. But apparently its going to be another picture that has problems uploading . 

8 hours ago, Lou L said:

You can do some mokume gane (nonferrous/precious metal pattern welding) with quarters or half dollars.  Welding quarters is pretty cheap, actually legal but can be tricky.  The outcome is a small, pattern welded billet you can make nice jewelry with.  If you are using a propane forge it is pretty straight forward compared to using coal.

I like the idea, and thanks for teaching me a new idea to research .  I do however use a coal forge, so it'll be a bit tougher from what I've read about the subject . However this will be my goal for today.

25 minutes ago, C-1ToolSteel said:

Maybe a leaf key ring? Don't spend too much time on her until you know your ready to make a gold ring.

Hahaha lets not get ahead of ourselves 

7 minutes ago, C-1ToolSteel said:

Your off to a great start!

1 minute ago, Tubalcain2 said:

looks great. i wish my first few things looked that good.

Thank you guys. Im trying to figure out something else to make to give my gf. Running low on ideas at my skill level though. Plus my only materials are basic things from lowes and of course RR spikes.

These are my latest beginner projects ive finished. Just a basic wrench knife, which was my first attempt at forge welding. A drum stick stand that someone asked me to make for them. And a RR spike coat hook, I just made this morning for my girlfriends birthday. I may make another for a set, but not sure yet.

2 minutes ago, Daswulf said:

Looks pretty good to me. Only thing I can think would look a little better it to get the twist to include all of the cut blocks but great first go.

Thank you, I completely agree about including all the blocks in the twist. I was more just trying to line up the point of the spike. I should have given it another 1/4 twist I think. 

Just getting into all of the wonders of blacksmithing. I'm just playing with RR spikes at the moment; as not to waste any good steel on my mistakes. I've made one knife, and someone at my work asked me to make them something. I was excited to make something for someone,  but also terrified for them to see my (lack of) skills I have so far lol. So I decided on going with something that looks much more complicated than it actually is. I know it's justa noob project, but I'm relatively happy with how it turned out. Feel free to let me know what looks wrong, and any advice on it.

12 hours ago, WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.c said:

I have never heard of heating SuperQuench.  I have used it for about 15 years.  As Frosty said the purpose of SuperQuench is to have a fast quench.  If you need to slow the quench down just use water, or oil.  When I have discussed it with Robb he never mentioned heating it and when I have seen him use it he did not heat it.

Are you going to store the SuperQuench in the tank?  How good is the integrity of the galvanized coating?  I use a 7 gallon plastic container with a lid.  I just make sure not to touch the sides or bottom.  If 15 years I have not had a problem.  If you are concerned about touching the plastic bucket and so are going to use the galvanized container when quenching I would move it to a plastic container after the use.

Yeah, the heating part seemed counterintuitive to me as well. However, im very new to all this and didnt wantto question it. Once i was done with my quench I moved the solution to a plastic bucket for storage until the next time I want to use it.

1 hour ago, Latticino said:

Not sure how you are heating the object to be heat treated if you only have a propane burner... I would recommend heating the tank using the method I outlined in the previous post. 

I am using an small old coal forge to heat my work

19 minutes ago, Judson Yaggy said:

Super Quench works just fine at room temp FYI.  Just make sure you stir it well to re-mix any salt that may have settled out.  

Thank you, thats great to know

20 minutes ago, Latticino said:

 Just don't try to heat the tub up with a roofing torch on the exterior surface or similar.

All i have it a propane burner. So I would guess this is a bad idea. Even in the open air?

I'm attempting to use the Super Quench formula and it calls for the solution to be at 150°. I have a galvanized tub that I would like to use. I know I'm not supposed to forge galvanized things; but is there serious risk with heating it filled with liquid in an outdoor setting?  Sorry if this has been asked before