Morten311

Hey everybody I was hoping that some of you could help me out. I am looking to start an Industrial production business where I will be utilizing closed die forging hammers and forge presses, but I have one major problem. I don't know which machine weight class I should be choosing. Some of the parts I have in mind is a bit complex and would probably be forged by the hammer rather than a press, but how do I choose which ram weight? Is there a formula out there I could be using to choose? something along the lines of x amount of tons is required to forge x amount of mm ( yes I use the metric system ) These machines are very expensive and it would not be possible to buy a 2t forging hammer only to realize it does not have enough power for example. I am not allowed by the customer to put any drawings up online, sorry

Thanks for the advice. I do work with powerful machines on a daily basis so i know that there is a lot of power behind the power hammers and i also know that you should'nt fear the machine but respect it for what it can do. And it is Johanes Angele i am thinking of buying from. I do appreciate any advice, warnings or tips and tricks. Any info is of much help to me.

Hey all I am now looking to buy a power hammer but i dont really know which weight class i should be looking at or if a Self contained air hammer is better than a mechanical. I usually work smaller stock but i also want to have capacity to take on bigger work, including production work, in the near future. I have been looking at three power hammer brands and one used one. The first one is an old, used but refurbished spring hammer which has a ram weight of 70kg (yes, thats correct. you a writing to someone from the metric system) The brand is Strojaren Prako from the czech republik from 1964, but is currently in germany. The price is 7500 euro or 8260 usd and can be shipped immediately The next one is a brand new turkish power hammer called Tanerd. It has a ram weight of 40kg and is a selfcontained power hammer and its price is 8890 euro or 9791 usd it CAN be equipped with a lubrication system. We move on to the next one which is a brand new Say-Mak also a turkish hammer and is located in southern germany. the cheapest one is a 50kg selfcontained power hammer and its price is 13566 euro or 14942 Next up is the Anyang selfcontained power hammer brand new and is located in germany (same dealer as the Say-mak) It has a ram weight of 40kg and costs 13780 euro or 15177 usd Now, i have also been looking at the 75 kg version of the Anyang power hammers which i can get from france, brand new for 18500 euro or 20376 usd. I would like to hear your opinions on these machines and share some info. However, it should be noted that all hammers comes with one set of dies and the prices are without transportation fees and taxes and i cannot simply drive to the dealers to test the machines because that would take at least a whole day of traveling through germany and that it just not possible if i want to keep my job. I have never used a power hammer before, so any advice and info will help me greatly and also point me to some other posts if you think that will help me as well and perhaps some pros and cons about these machines. And keep in mind that i am looking to do some production work on these machines as well. Thanks

Okay thanks for the advice. I will upgrade my stack to a straight stack running through the roof with a diameter of 300mm. I will get back to you if it does not work. But please come with good advice because someone else might find it useful. Thanks again

So what about a 16" smoke stack? is that too big or just right?. my forge is 640 x 670mm (25.2 x 26.4") I do realize that having a smokestack that is 24" is just too big, might as well just make a hole in the roof. But i still want to be absolutly sure that the smoke gets out of my workshop and does not hang around.

I am planning to put the stack straight up through the roof anyway

I have tried with the side panels just like you have said but it does not work. period. Now, i just took a screenshot of trenton tye and his forge and hood ( hope he or admins dont mind ). it's clear to see that he has no side panels but just the hood. maybe i'm not using my brain properly, but how come his work and mine don't?

So i have a thread on my current smokestack and overhead hood : Trouble with overhead forge hood Check it out. The smokestack and hood are the same and yes glenn i have tried with foldable sides on the hood and it didn't work. and there is no obstructions near my smokestack at all and it is well clear of the peak. Opening doors does'nt help at all on the draft. I have plans to shove my chimney straight up through the roof which is why i am concerned about the size, because i dont want to waste more money on a shimney than i need to and i already have wasted some which is anoying, but thats just life and stupidity on my part. It is very frustrating all this because it worked in the previous workshop and now dont. The overhead hood does work and is not at fault and i can say that with some confidence because trenton tye from purgatoryironworks on youtube who also have an overhead hood which works. I appreciate all the help i can get here and i do try out most things that you guys tell me to. Now i have a slight thought in the back of my head telling me that my chimney does'nt work because there is no trees or buildings in the way. if that is true or not, i don't know, it's up to you guys. Thanks

Hey all. I have a problem with my current stack which is 200mm (7") and 5.5 meters tall and it has worked before but after moving to a new workshop it does not. I gave gotten sick and tired of my workshop being full of smoke, so i have been thinking about going industrial size. I have 5 sheets of stainless 1mm thick and making the new stack either 640 or 560mm in diameter or 22 to 24" and 4.5 meters in total height. Is it too big or not? Its hard to find a proper answer.

Hi. Someone asked me if i knew what this tong is used for and i dont know. It's a very special pair of tongs with three jaws from sweden. The middle jaw is apparently loose and there are many more in sweden in different sizes and shapes. The only thing i can think of is that it is used for forge welding or maybe some farriers work. Can anyone in here help me out?

it´s flat just under the mesh

it looks like this

if it gets too low there is not going to be enough room for bigger workpieces. that is the whole reason for the overhead hood., but i have moved it a bit closer than on the pictures. from where i´m standing the front edge of the hood lines up with the back of the forge. my one concern is, maybe the hood has too much volume for traping the smoke instead of getting it out? could that be another issue?

so, would it help if i cut the hood in half in height? you know, so its only half as tall or would it impact the performance in a negative way? everything else that you guys suggested has been apllied to the hood and it made a minor difference. if there is anything else then i would likelytry that as well.

It is mostly closed off execpt for a small hole in the bottom

Hi I have been using my forge with some changes made to the hood and smokestack. I put on the sidepanels as some of you suggested and i have reduced the opening in the bottom of my smokestack so the hole is about 80 mm instead of 200 mm. My hood still does not draw very well until the fire has been burning for an hour or two and if i put a little too much fresh coal on the fire ( a handful extra ) it smokes up my shop. Would it help if i reduced the height of my hood by 50% but keeping the width and depth intact, therefore decreasing the max volume of smoke that can be gathered in the hood?

so here are the pictures of the stack and the hood. it is fairly big but i designed it that way because of future projects. the T-bend on the outside is for rainwater to pass through so it doesn't enter my forge ( past problem ) and it is so low to the ground it should not have an impact on the smoke. I have to point out that this size of smoke stack has worked before in my previous workshop, but i used the super sucker at that point. however the super sucker had to be quite close to the firepot restricting the sizes of my work pieces, which is the reason for the overhead hood. And the new workshop is quite big so there should be enough air to replace the exhaust. The new workshop is 18x9x3.6 meters

Hello everyone. I am seeking some help with my forge hood. it's an overhead hood with the following dimensions : bottom = 840mm, top = 330mm, depth = 700mm. smokeStack is 200mm in diameter and about 5.9 meters tall sticking about 2-3 meters above the tip of my roof and it has two 90(ish) degree bends. the hood is 540mm above my forge. The problem is that the hood is not drawing very well and i am aware that side drafts are better but i thought that now that i have more space i could use an overhead hood with great success, but no, it does not work at all. not when it's cold nor when it's hot. if someone could help me, that would be great. thanks

i got my side draft working now. maybe not the best but it removes at least 70 % of the smoke which is a huge improvement. all i had to do was to extend my chimney up and above the rooftop. nothing else has been changed. but thanks for all your helpfull tips and tricks.

i will remember that

okay thanks for the help frosty i will order home a 4m ventilation tube, because then it will reach just over the tip of the roof, maybe a little more. but thanks anyway. it is nice to be able to get some help when you are completely new to blacksmithing.

well i have a problem about moving the forge closer. first i have sealed the window off ( except a hole for the ventilation ) with plexiglass to stop air from blowing in to my workshop since i dont want to get sick and dont like to wear too much clothes since i like to move freely. second the is a small concrete wall next to my forge and the landlord wont let me break it down. i am currently looking for a new place to be, but for the moment this has to do. but thanks for the idea.

okay so i just did what frosty told me to do, but it is still not working quite right. i dont have a lot of ventilation tubing left so i only have about 150 - 200 mm of tube going upwards. i dont know if it is enough of a height, but if cold air blows in even if it is just a little breeze outside, in my head it should be okay. i also dont want to spend a whole lot of money on ventilation tubes if it does not work. ventilation tubes and equipment is quite expensive here in little denmark. but i am going to order a 400mm ventialtion tube to go outside and drag it up and just a little bit over the roof, unless you guys say something else.

Hi everybody I have made a side draft hood ( super sucker design ) but it is not working properly. i have installed my hood on the side of my forge and put the ventilation tube through a window since the landlord won't let me drag a chimney through the roof. on the other side of the window i have a 90 degree angle to point upwards with a little "hat" to stop rain from entering and i use a Ø200mm ventilation tube. if it is too windy out side i cannot stand i my workshop since air from outside is blowing in through my chimney and into my forge. i could really use some help with this problem since i am almost getting grey hair from this problem. i have tried with two ventilator blowers, a small one that broke do to heat and a big one that also broke due to high temperature. both blowers were sitting next to the window and still broke. now i have tried with this form of ventilation but it still doesn't work quite right. please help me if you have any idea of what i am doing wrong. thanks in advance.