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I Forge Iron

Straick

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    Guilderland, NY

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  1. I'm not too far from the eastern end of it. I have been trying to find groups in the area, and the only one I've found is the Capital District Blacksmiths Association. Just can't seem to find where there meetings take place at.
  2. It's not a problem. No matter how I end up doing my piping, that ball valve is staying put. You can never have enough ways to kill a gas feed in an emergency. Never fails that you end up not being able to reach any of the normal ones, and that one you never planned on using ends up being your saving grace. I still need to add one to the output from my regulator for a fast way to kill the gas if the hose gets damaged. Would you happen to have a link to what a gas forge running a good mix would look like? I've found several of them running, just not sure of what a good mix looks like(my gas background here is heating furnaces and torches). Your Word method of resizing sounds as good as any to me, so I'm going to give it a try.
  3. I found this forum while looking for a way to build a gas forge(which this yielded). The biggest thing that I'm looking for now is someone nearby(I'm in the Guilderland/Altamont area) to learn from. You can't beat hands on learning, but a little guidance makes the process much better. The last time I worked a forge I was at Scout Camp, and haven't been in a position to work one since.
  4. My firebrick and refractory cement are rated for 3000F and 3500F respectively. The refractory cement was left over from my boiler, and I bought the firebrick for this. Here's how I did the fuel connection on the burner as well as the burner. Here's two shots of it running tonight without the flash and the back end blocked. I did swap the .035 tip out for a .030 tip because I couldn't get rid of the yellow flames from the opening of the forge. It's running with the propane at 25 PSI in these shots. Any less on the pressure, and I couldn't get a shot of the flames coming out of the mouth of the forge. I am planning relocating the gas hookup to low on the side of the forge as well as giving myself an idle circuit. Just need to decide if I want to do the plumbing for the idle circuit in soft copper(flares) or hard pipe(threading). The brick did stay cool enough to touch the sides of the forge in line with the burner without burning my hand after I got everyone to temp, so not sure if these are hard brick or soft brick. P.S. Sorry about the large size of the pictures, I'm still learning this camera and figuring out how to resize stuff. The resizing has not gone smooth yet(they always end up distorted or blurry).
  5. Here's a shot of my forge running a 3/4 inch Frosty Tee burner with a .030 Mig tip and the gas at 25 PSI.
  6. Here's a side view of my forge running at night. It has a 3/4 inch Frosty Tee burner with a .030 Mig tip running at 25 PSI.
  7. This is the orifice on my burner pulled. You can see the unthreaded area on the adapter that the washers are keeping from going into the threads on the tee.
  8. I'm building my first gas forge right now. I'm using firebricks and refractory cement(left over from redoing my oil fired boiler) with a steel angle iron frame(so that I'll be able to move it). I redid my math on the volume, and it came out to 248.625 cubic inches. Originally I somehow originally had come up with about 300, and I'm thinking I miss measured originally. The burned is getting mounted straight into the top and will be sealed around it's opening. I did build a tee burner following the directions in the sticky at the top. Thank you Frosty for the nice clear write up, it was very easy to follow. The only changes I made to them was that I tapped the 1x1x3/4 tee for the threads on the flare instead of the pipe thread and used the pipe thread for a ball valve, as well as using a ball peen hammer to make my flare(one going inside and hitting it with another). For a regulator, I'm using one of my spares for my oxy/propane scrapping kit. Got it tuned to burn nicely(all the way from about 2 PSI all the way up to around 20 PSI) in open air. Am I going to have too much burner for this size forge, or will I be okay with the 3/4 one that I have now(I think that I had read that the 3/4 ones were good for about 300 to 350 cubic inches)? Also, on a single burner forge, is an idle circuit worth doing? I'm already contemplating making a bracket for the control valve to hold it to the side, and it doesn't seem like it would be hard to add a needle valve and associated fittings to give it an idle.
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