Bob123

Thanks Kozzy

The pictures are great.  I have them safely stored away along with the information you provided.  That is the easy part, LOL, now I have to get out my scrapes of stock, lite off  the forge and try to make the "Y's" at the ends.  Then some blades and an old broom handle for the handle.   Hmmmm this it going to be fun and interesting to try.  will post pics and keep everyone interested up on how I am doing.

Thanks again Kozzy for the great info and pics.

Bob

Duh  every now and then someone has to slap me up side the head get my attention and show me the obvious.  LOL   No more reposting.

On 11/13/2017 at 7:03 PM, SLAG said:

Ulu have many uses, shapes and have been used for at least 4,000 years.

For uses,

"It is utilized in applications as diverse as skinning and cleaning animals, cutting a child's hair, cutting food, as a weapon and, if necessary, trimming blocks of snow and ice used to build an igloo "You can see how it is used by watching any of her videos.

SLAG. 

thank slag

visited the web site and it is now in my project favorites

Bob

19 hours ago, JHCC said:

Here’s one from the village of Anvik, Alaska, made from a chunk of my great-grandfather’s crosscut saw. 

This came to me without a handle; I added the cork. 

Wonderful pic JHCC

I like how elegant it is.  Simplicity at its best.  What is it about 4 or 4.5 inches at the widest part of the blade?  If you don't mind I would like to replicate it.

thanks for sharing the pic

Bob

Stop  all the excessive reposting of everything

On ‎11‎/‎13‎/‎2017 at 4:27 PM, Kozzy said:

That prompted me to look up some photos of old ulu knives.  The radius variations are rather broad but a lot did have tighter radii--especially the old polished slate versions.

Remember, these were essentially "skinning" knives used for many aspects of butchering--and meat tended to be cut from the bone in smaller "eating size" pieces/strips rather than large roasts.  A tighter radius would probably be of benefit for that use.

For a standard kitchen, I'd agree that larger radius would probably be more workable---and there were several "western" versions of that made years ago.  I have 2 commercially made "antiques" that are double (parallel) bladed to use as an arm powered meat grinder basically.  Very sharp and thin bladed.  Handy for home made sausage.

Kozzy

you know you have inadvertently given me a challenge.  LOL I remember in the dim (and I stress dim) recesses of my mind I recall seeing what you have mentioned.  I think my grandmother had one like that.  If you read this and will tell me the distance between blades I would greatly appreciate it.  Maybe even a pic?    If you haven't read between the lines yet I am begging. LOL  I have a couple of knives in the works from the same piece of steel they are going to be an attempt at making a skinning and gutting knife.  Will post when I have a little more completed on them.

Thanks

Bob

On ‎11‎/‎13‎/‎2017 at 8:59 AM, Latticino said:

Nice first effort, particularly the curve of the Ulu edge and the matching bevel.  As this is your first project I hope you won't mind some, hopefully, constructive criticism:

1. The radius of curvature of the Ulu edge seems a bit small.  I expect you would get a more effective chopper (and easier project) if you made the radius significantly larger and the blade width shorter (unless it was designed to coordinate with a specific chopping bowl.
2. The handle design does not seem very ergonomic to me.  I expect a long ~1" wide slot running the length set half way between the blade and outside edge of the handle might help, or just making the handle less wide in general.
3. It appears that you made this knife exclusively with stock removal, but likely used some kind of belt grinder or sander.  What stock did you start with (circular saw blade?), and did you address heat treating the steel in any way?
4. Do the pins penetrate the metal of the blade at all, or just the handle?  If the latter you may have issues in the future with the handle remaining on.

JHCC

After cutting it out I wondered about the radius and then decided that I would have to make a cutting board with a cup in it just for the Ulu.   The cutting board will be another project and I will have to dust off my skills as a wood worker.  LOL  I haven't used enough to know if it will be very tiring or not but feels good to my hand and the wife seemed to think it would be alright.  Will keep your thought of a handle in mind for the next one.  Yes I used a sander and grinder to work it to a rough shape and then files and sandpaper.  The pins go all the way through the metal so hopefully the handle will not work loose.  The metal was a salvaged diamond crusted blade used on a gas powered saw and is about 1/8 inch thick.  I did heat treat it a brand new file just skated on the blade when I finished so I assume that it is quite hard, only time and use will tell.  I thank you for the comments.  As old as I am I am still able to learn and love all the help I can  get.

Bob

2 minutes ago, Bob123 said:

On ‎11‎/‎13‎/‎2017 at 8:59 AM, Latticino said:

Nice first effort, particularly the curve of the Ulu edge and the matching bevel.  As this is your first project I hope you won't mind some, hopefully, constructive criticism:

1. The radius of curvature of the Ulu edge seems a bit small.  I expect you would get a more effective chopper (and easier project) if you made the radius significantly larger and the blade width shorter (unless it was designed to coordinate with a specific chopping bowl.
2. The handle design does not seem very ergonomic to me.  I expect a long ~1" wide slot running the length set half way between the blade and outside edge of the handle might help, or just making the handle less wide in general.
3. It appears that you made this knife exclusively with stock removal, but likely used some kind of belt grinder or sander.  What stock did you start with (circular saw blade?), and did you address heat treating the steel in any way?
4. Do the pins penetrate the metal of the blade at all, or just the handle?  If the latter you may have issues in the future with the handle remaining on.

JHCC

After cutting it out I wondered about the radius and then decided that I would have to make a cutting board with a cup in it just for the Ulu.   The cutting board will be another project and I will have to dust off my skills as a wood worker.  LOL  I haven't used enough to know if it will be very tiring or not but feels good to my hand and the wife seemed to think it would be alright.  Will keep your thought of a handle in mind for the next one.  Yes I used a sander and grinder to work it to a rough shape and then files and sandpaper.  The pins go all the way through the metal so hopefully the handle will not work loose.  The metal was a salvaged diamond crusted blade used on a gas powered saw and is about 1/8 inch thick.  I did heat treat it a brand new file just skated on the blade when I finished so I assume that it is quite hard, only time and use will tell.  I thank you for the comments.  As old as I am I am still able to learn and love all the help I can  get.

 

Bob

oh oh   sorry about that latticino used the wrong name  

On ‎11‎/‎13‎/‎2017 at 11:02 AM, ThomasPowers said:

Best way to get a list of improvements is to use it a lot and then make the next one to deal with the issues seen with that one, repeat until people are hammering at your door in the middle of the nights begging you to make them one!

Thomas Powers

I don't know if I want the world to beat down my doors at my age.  LOL I do however take all comments to heart and learn from them;.

On ‎11‎/‎13‎/‎2017 at 11:57 AM, Irondragon Forge & Clay said:

Happy Birthday Bob123... and looking at your Ulu it looks pretty good for a first attempt. Lattinico addressed the issues well.  You may be able to put a finger slot in the handle, depending how long the tang is.

Your thread will probably be moved from this (Anvil) sub forum to the knife making one so you will get more knife makers looking at it with good feedback.

Sorry Clay I didn't realize that I was in the wrong thread.  will look closer next time. 

I was looking at knives used by Indians for centuries and came across one called Ulu, made by Inuit Indians.  It looked interesting and i decided to make a version of one.  I think i bit off more than i could chew.  LOL  Anyway hear it is.  Blade is about 3.5 inches wide and 4.5 inches from top to bottom.  Blade is about 1/8 inch thick and has a one sided bevel.  Handle is Maple with copper wire for pins and a simple food grade butcher block oil for a finish, to make it food prep safe.  I am glad i only had one bevel to contend with as it almost kicked my butt.  But with many hours of hand work managed to get it sharp.  Not scary sharp but sharp enough that it cuts and chops vegies well.  Will work some more on the edge.  I welcome all comments good or bad as i am new at this hobby.  As a newbi (only one year at the hobby) and only 70 years young as of yesterday I need to start learning.  LOL  Here are two pics one of each side.

3 hours ago, Jonnytait said:

looking good, have you put it to use yet? are you happy with how it works?

Yes I have used it.  Finished up and put together a set of tongs from Kens Iron.  Liked the way it worked for them.  As I have very limited experience with a real anvil I can not say which I would like better.  6 to 9 US dollars a pound was a little rich for my blood so went this direction.  Have had a couple mention it might work better mounted on a stump or solid wooden stand I make myself.  My next project will be a set of tongs from scratch and will know better then what I think. 

Back in March I posted a picture of a piece of steel and asked for ideas  on the best way to use it.

The picture is what I came up with.  The strike plate is 5x13x1.5 inches thick and weighs in at about 28 pounds and has a 1 inch hardy hole.

The plate it is mounted on is 13x14.5x1.5 inches thick and weighs in at about 80 pounds. Legs are 2 inch schedule 40 pipe.

I haven't road tested it yet as I just finished it.  Comments good or bad  are welcome as I  am still a newby 

No walls.  No roof.  LOL But it is a start.  Will have to be a fair weather iron worker at least for awhile. 

On ‎3‎/‎7‎/‎2017 at 10:14 AM, Glenn said:

Quick weight calculations for plate steel is 12 inches x 12 inches x 1/2 inches is 20 pounds.

Note all the 2's in the calculation, makes it easy to remember.

Thanks Glenn even an old goat can remember that, at least for a little while.  lol

Hmmmmmm biggun think neighbor has one and he is in carrying distance. 

I did do a spark test.  compared to the sparks off of an old pitch fork.  seemed the same.  they both looked like the sparks off of a 4th sparkler.

Yes that is what I came up with Glenn.  Wonderful this internet found a calculator from a steel mfg that allowed me to figure it out without using my brain.  LOL  Have my RR iron mounted on a stump so am thinking of mounting it on the unused end side of the stump on end like it sets

Thanks for the heads up JHCC would never have given a thought to sharp edges until I screwed something up.  LOL 

sounds to me like your daughter had some very good raising and a whole lot of love growing up.  You care so she cares and the end result is she will do good in life.

Bob

Thank you for the quick reply.  I plan starting with knives.  Is 1.5 inches is enough width for a working face to work with?

I am one of those poor folks on a "fixed income"  LOL and have not been able to find an anvil I could afford.  So have done the done the next best thing.  I purchased a chunk of steel 13x39x1.5 inches for $25 and hope to make it do as an anvil.  I got out of a foundry/machine shop that went out of business.  I do not know what kind of steel it is, but think it might be tool or low 10xx.  I has been machined very smooth on all sides and one side looks to be polished under the fine grained rust.  Plan on mounting it on a 14 inch diameter hard wood stump I had cut for the purpose of mounting an anvil.  Have been toying with the idea of cutting it in half, cutting a hardy hole some how in one half and then welding the two halves together before mounting on the stump. 

This newbe would love to hear what you all think and have learned the hard way. 

I hope I have put this request in the correct place, and if I have not please set me straight as I am an old goat trying to get into the new century.