wildvortex

I closed off the back with kaowool about 2 in. Worth. I also had the front brick closed as much as I could. I guess I just have to try a few other things or say the hell with it and just do my welding in my coal forge. Figured propane would be cleaner for forge welding.

OK so got a chance to run the forge again. I packed around the burners and made the chamber smaller with kaowool. The steel did get to a brighter orange but that was it. Still not to weld temp.

Yes frozen it has a coating of metrikote on it. So I should keep kao on the back opening as well as the fire brick unless working with something long. Will try that have plenty of kaowool. I bought 20 feet of it. Cheaper that way if I get my butt in gear and put some up for sale

Lol Frosty I had the fire brick doors open wide so you could see better inside. I normally have them just open enough to get my steel in and out. The back is totally closed off. I don't however have the burner holes sealed off. I am guessing that I should pack with kaowool? Once I got it running right I was planning on leaving the choke alone. you are right I do need to fill around my flooring material and where the log for my anvil comes through the floor but I don't need to fill it with scale. I hope to get out there and mess with it the end of the week. I will get back on this then.

The volume of the chamber is less than 577 cu in. I say less than because it is d shaped. I measured the radius with a approximate center between the base and top. The burners are 3/4 and are 2 of them. The first pic is choke closed the second is choke wide open across the front. The third is when first started Fourth is after 15 min. The one thing I have figure out is that the ambient temperature outside would have an overall effect on flame temp. But the day I tried welding with it it was 70 deg out.

The Refractory is about an inch thick all around. I can't quite remember the volume Frosty. I will try to get out there tomorrow for some pictures. I have a little to many irons in the fire right now. Can't make any promises.

Nah I am using .035 tips and am getting a good flame. With the choke I am able to go from dragons breath to an oxidising flame. One question though, what are you using on the bottom to set your steel on so you can grab it with tongs? Frosty I am not sure what more I can say. 1 in. Kaowool on the bottom 2 in the top. Topped off with Refractory cement and metrikote IR sealant. I have tried all pressures from about 3 to 20 psi.

I have built a propane forge based on Wayne Coe's design using a propane cylinder except I used 2/3 of a forklift tank. http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/site/mobile?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com%2FForge_Supplies.html#3002 I also used 2 modified sidearm burners http://www.zoellerforge.com/sidearm.html Yesterday I tried working with it for the first time besides to heat treat. I could not get the steel past a medium orange. What could be some factors causing it not to heat to welding temp?

Sorry Steve but I haven't. Didn't even know there was one. Will take a look tomorrow. Thanks

Great to know. I had ordered some brass from Midwest steel and they had told me 6 was the limit with UPS. Thank you

Thank you. I was looking at their blade steel. Yes I am aware that UPS will only take lengths of 6 feet. Thought it might be less expensive to buy a full length and pay for 3 cuts. I will check onto it further.

Sorry guys I am in southeast united States. I checked admiral and they only have those in 72 inch lengths. Also I meant 1084. Just reread my post. Precoffee moment.

I see that people have mentioned where to buy 1095 and such but where can someone buy 1085 fairly inexpensively. The book I am reading says 1085 and 15N20 forge weld easy to make Dimascus and still durable for a knife. I have done some searching for 1095 and have not been successful for 20' lengths and feel 1085 will be just as bad All help would be great.

Thomas thanks for the info. I have a local steel distributor here that I know can get me at least 1095. I understand the issues with stressed vs. New stock. I am going to look into new. The springs came to me cheap and yes Steve it is cheap. Hard to get into something on a disability paycheck. Drs. tell me not to lift over 20 lbs due to my back and I started going stir crazy. I am a gotta do something kind of person. Wife is willing to lift the heavier stuff for me when needed. So I figured making some knives could fill my te when I feel up to it and is along with my Maine upbringing. Kinda hoped that this hobby could someday get me off Disability. Didn't figure a startup cost. Forge, build a belt grinder, drill press. Ect. You all know the deal. Am just trying to get started. But that worries the wife and the more I spend without bringing in the more I get nagged by the Mrs. I read through the post again this evening. What the heck was I thinking! Don't know where the heck that rant came from. You all were trying to help and I go off on some tirant. Sorry guys! One one heck of a way to introduce myself to the community. Guess I can blame that one on meds and a bad morning. Had to redo 2 handles this morning because I found a crack in one and sanded into a void on some burl scales. Sorry again guys and thank you for your time it is much appreciated even though I didn't show it. Anyway this is the crescent boline I made

Thanks for the link Steve. Most of my knives have been utility, hunters and skinners, most are along that line. I have even done a commissioned crescent boline. I find that 5160 (probable coil spring)is workable but tough. It would be easier with something not as tough. Looking at specs 1095 looks pretty good. Any thoughts

I don't mean that buying good steel to forge was not knife making. I guess I did the assume thing when speaking I assumed that the $3 steel for a knife was a refferal to buying blanks. I just have come across many custom "knife makers" at craft shows but when I ask about them I find they are blanks. Sorry Steve He did mean Rockwell even though he keeps saying strength. I remember him asking if i had them Rockwell tested the first time we spoke. So, what is the best carbon steel to buy for a knife?

Yes he has mentioned Rockwell strength. I started this as a hobby and only look for the knives to cover costs. The springs I get are from a truck modification shop. They are springs that were replaced as part of a lift. The price I sell them for does not even come close to custom prices. I want all my knives to be hand forged and to recycle steel. I don't call someone who buys a blank and puts a handle on it a "knife maker". Sorry to all those that do. It is just how I feel. While it is a custom knife all you did was dress a knife to me. At least with those who do stock removal are taking a piece of steel and shaping it into a knife. I do tell my customers that these are made from recycled steel and can have some flaws in the steel. Thanks for the help. I knew he had mentioned a specific type of testing but had forgotten what he has said. Where can I get Rockwell testing done and is it even worth it since it can very from blade to blade.

I have a small sporting good store consigning a few knives for me which is great. I have only been smithing knives for about 9 months. My problem is that he wants to know knife strength. How do I test this without destroying the knife. All my knives are made from truck coil springs.