Senft

That helps a lot- thanks! When I can build a bigger kiln I think I'll try it.

Great! Thanks much, next time I do casting I'm gonna try it. What burnout temps/cycle do you use? Is the investment picky about how fast you warm it up?

Chyancarrek, do you have the recipe for this type of investment? I've done some small scale investment casting and want to go larger, but buying jewelry grade investment is a lot- would love to know how to make my own.

Interested in the molding process... is that a shell mold buried in a container of sand, or is the whole thing one piece??

Fantastic work!! Thanks for sharing.

Ciladog/Doc


Thanks, the additional explanations really helped. Very neat stuff!!

Still trying to understand the whole picture of how it works, but would it be similar to this- http://chriscoleman.com/stuff/ , except by making the motion rod pivot rather than moving the lower limit switch down with the throttle movement?

ASME? Had some experiences with historic boiler repair, became a bit frustrated in looking for certain answers in ASME code. Wondered if it was just me. Then was asked by the State boiler inspector if I knew what ASME meant- His answer was "Always, Sometimes, Maybe, Except". Can't argue.

It will likely wind up that that I don't have large enough tips or tanks around right now and will need to use 7018 or mig as mentioned. The idea of where the weld goes in relation to the grain direction also did occur to me. All of this also confirms that I will not use it for anything critical such as the press frame I'd have liked to do. Although it's really heavy channel I'm not sure the quality, and would not enjoy having it blow apart near me. Interesting that even at a fairly late date (1950) you can find wrought iron specified for certain locomotive boiler parts such as staybolts where some flexibility is required, with flange grade steels specified for everything else.

As much info as possible from large group with experience is always good! Very much appreciated. The idea of gas welding makes sense, the dual shield also. I've only used solid wire mig so far so will need to learn about the dual shield.

Thanks all, sounds reasonable. I think I'll try out some 7018AC too and see if it likes it. May bolt in addition (Do not have enough sound insulation nor enough help to get the #90 rivet gun out ).

12 inch with a 3/4" thick web? And you tried to TIG weld it? Never seen wrought iron rolled channel. Of course all rolled products are called "wrought" in the industry. If it's just rolled channel, then the problem is more likely your welding than what rod you're using.

Yes, it's real wrought iron channel and nice heavy stuff. Salvaged from an 1880's building. Got to thinking about what it might be and cut off a test piece to fracture. has a lengthwise grain like wood. grinding into it, laminations are clearly visible. Only reason for trying TIG on it is that I had used some of it in a sculpture at an earlier time and needed to make some welds on small sections that I had forged down fairly thin. Didn't work! Slag in the material floated in the nice little TIG puddle, messy,then the weld always cracked upon cooling. I have a fair amount of this large channel and would like to use in other building projects and am looking at the best way to treat it as far as welding. Figured if anyone has much experience with best way to electric weld the stuff it will be someone on this forum. Something had stuck in my head about 7024 being the best flavor to use on it, but I don't quite recall- just want to use the right stuff. In my experience this stuff is also considerably weaker than steel channel, so I need to be careful what I do with it.

I've been working with some scrap wrought channels (12"and about 3/4" web) and need to get strong welds on them. Have been told to treat like A36 as far as welding goes. Found that 6010-11 cracks through weld upon cooling and so does TIG with mild steel filler, 7018 seems to work OK. Have also heard of using some other 70 series stick electrode, however don't recall exact number. Wondered if anyone else here has experience with this.

Does anyone have experience with this outfit?- http://sino-texasimports.net/

Great job!

On the subject of exhaust control valves for Kinyon style hammers- has anyone tried using a whistle valve (lever operated poppet) rather than a ball valve?

In Pennsylvania, apparently yes.

What kind of herd did it bring?? I have a shop in PA which is operated only on a serious hobby level @the moment, If I turn business and apply for license what will happen?

I think I know what you mean. I've done various kinds of metalwork for around 20 yrs, day job of also doing all kinds of metal/mechanical work always remains necessary to keep going, and time's limited to do creative stuff that I can't figger how to make enough money on. However am getting enough interest in my products that I've decided to form an LLC. Turning my side work into a separate business entity is new to me and although I'm reading some about it, I'm interested in trying to learn something from others here who have done it successfully. Where and what kind of insurance do most people get in this business, what sort of stuff do most people put in contracts, etc., etc.

Now I don't feel so bad. I too decided I'd make a bunch of little things with leaves and cover a bunch of Christmas gifts, how hard could that be? Had previously done some good big leaves that came out well..... tooling no good for small ones, little giant having moods and hard to adjust fits, leaf die tooling bouncing all over the place from outta control hits creating double-vision leaves, decided I actually needed to build tons of new tools including a hydraulic press and air hammer. After day and a half of messing with ended up roughing out with little giant and detailing by hand. Everything I build makes me have to build more stuff.

I think it's great! Also love the things others posted.

Great stuff! I really like the rebar piece also.

You may want to look at armour forges for heating shaped pieces rather than heating the whole piece of sheet each time. There is a nice example over at anvilfire.com under the Armoury link, Eric Thing Raising a Norman helmet

Thanks Thomas, that's a good idea! will look into it.

As I need to plan for hose and disconnects (portable equipment), maybe I'll plan for 3/4" ones. Need to be able to adjust interior volume pretty large account of heating sheets and plates for forming, then be able to get it back into forge after it's partially shaped. Using big oxy-propane rosebud torch works but lotsa hassle with gas bottles and expensive.

Am considering construction of variable size gas forge using natural gas with blower. Suppose interior volume could go from roughly 1-3 cubic feet. What I'm wondering is size of natural gas supply line needed considering forge volume. I have easy access to 1/2" supply lines or not easy access to a 1" line, wondering if the 1/2" line would do the trick with this? as far as I know, gas pressure as supplied is in the less than 1psi range. I do not need welding heat, just enough for normal forging and shaping operations. Anyone have experience with this?

I agree on manifolding the tanks- it seems to make a big difference when it comes to freezing up. I've had OK luck with two 3/4" burners on one 40 pound tank, but do not usually go over 10 psi. Have run five 3/4" burners on two 40 pound tanks manifolded with good results, no freezing. Seems the 20's are a little small unless you only have very light demand.