fishfinder401

I don't really see how that analogy works with my situation...

I am also planning on using it for making some Damascus so it would get more use than just the heat treating, and I plan on still using my coal forge as my main one for regular forging, because it heats just what i can forge which definitely has its benefits with not unnecessarily heating the steel like you said, just difficult with larger pieces, and its not the easiest for me to get coal, so the amount i found i burn when doing forge welding doesn't seem worth it when i can use propane for that that i have easy access to I have considered making a trench forge, i just honestly don't have the room for that right now, still at my parents place, and pushing it as far as the space i am already using for my setup so, as far as vertical forge go though, Have you seen anything on the Ellis 12 VT? or their horizontal 8 HT? Also, I appreciate all the the advice, I have been pretty much completely self taught, so others opinions are greatly appreciated

I will, thanks for the recommendation, and i would build one, but right now i think i would prefer to get one i know works, and get used to that first( i have never actually even seen a propane forge in person before) and the diamond back i am looking at seems to be well insulated from what i have seen, but the fact you can heat a 26 blade from a foot long forge that's interesting, when i do eventually make my own forge( which i plan to do eventually) ill give making it vertical some consideration And i have an old riveters forge, and i have modified it with an extra air source from the side to add some length, which got it up to about 10in.

Hi everyone, my apologies if this has been discussed before, i searched but couldn't find it. So, my question is, I am planning on getting my first gas forge to let me heat treat a little longer of blades than my small kiln and coal forge will let me. my current limit seems to be about a 8in blade. So, I am thinking of getting the diamond back 2 burner knife maker, the chamber is 13.5 in long, but how long of a blade could i theoretically get to temperature inside of it? I was originally going to get 3 burner from majestic forge, but had heard some negative reviews of fuel consumption and quality so i may be steering away from them, unless someone else convinces me otherwise. any tips on what size blade i should be able to harden in it? Thanks Noel

That thing looks perfect, does he still make them? Not quite, I'm thinking of something with about the same hitt of power as my arm may be a little more but one that hits faster and doesn't destroy my wrists(bad wrists from a growth spurt when younger) do NOT quote the large previous post -- mod removed

Ooh now that sounds up my alley... How would you think it would work flat stock for knives? Also, any contact info or videos of his hammers?

Thanks, I'll check it out

So, has anyone seen or heard of small/mini power hammers being used or made? I'm talking about something in the 5-10lb head range. I know for a lot of stuff it wouldn't be powerful enough but it could be useful for some things

ahh ok, any opinions on them?

Oh, I was under the impression it was self contained

That's too bad, glad he is just retired though. Any similar hammers out there? (smaller self contained air hammer)

Now that I finnaly have my first power hammer I of course am looking at which my next one will be and liked what I saw from iron kiss hammers, except I cohkdbt find them for sale (new) anywhere and their site isn't there anymore, are they still around or did something happen? Thanks Noel

That was the plan, and this is a 1 time thing... Or close to it... Going to use the extra metal from it for hammers. But I'll see if I can find a 1x2 piece

So maybe something closer to 1.5?

What size would you recommend?

Why flat bar? And yep, actually setting it up tommorow

This style is new, but I've made similar.... And I just remembered some,scrap that might work

im going to make it a little more realistic than the picture sent, but i plan on slit and drifting it.. while i can forge weld, im not comfortable welding a piece that large. and while i realize that 4140 may not be the best steel for edge holding, since it will be a wall hanger mostly i figure that it should hold up well enough, and i would rather it be tougher rather than harder if they do ever decided to do something with it. i will however be looking for a piece of like 1080, 1075 etc to use instead, but right now i have a source for the 4140 so that is at least a backup plan. and i think im charging enough, priced out my materials/ time and went off of that... does 200 sound about right?

Lol, that's a very good question... The person aparently will be mainly using it as a decoration, but wants it to,be the real deal( their words not mine) This is the pic they sent as an example

Hey guys, i just got asked to make a viking style axe for someone and im trying to figure out what size material i should go with, i was thinking 2in round should work as it will be a relatively small axe, around 3lbs or less, and a edge around 6in. so, does a 2in round bar of 4140 sound like a good choice? or do you have any other recommendations. thanks Noel

It was from aldo, but that was litterally the last piece from that bar, but I do have a bar of 52100 from him that I thought I noticed similar patterns in that gave me some serious issues, I guess it,might be worth talking to him... Will the alloy banding cause any,noticeable effects in performance?

Hi everyone, i decided to etch one of my 80crv2 knives that i did a hamon with much longer than normal, and this interesting, almost damascus like pattern came out, the knife seems to be structurally fine, but im just wondering what caused this, and if it is good, bad or just looks cool. if it helps, it is only in the tip, and along the hamon line along the whole blade( harder to get that on camera). as far as i know i didn't overheat it at all, and i have a decent amount( to me at least) of 80crv2 knives that i have made and this is the first i have seen this on. thanks Noel

good to know about IR from coal, I'll be careful with that. And I'll have to try the pipe idea at some point. I've already learned about burning work up in coal, I've heat treated quite a few dozen blades with it, this one I was considering propane for is jsut larger than my normal blade

thanks, ill the something similar to what you mentioned with the angle iron. and if it helps, i am using an old riveters forge run off a leather belt, so i cant really modify the air system on it without possibly causing serious damage( wasn't in the best shape when i got it), but i can add another air source on the side if i need to. hows the IR and UV from a coal forge? also, i do appreciate all the input everyone is giving me. thanks

I don't really want to send it out for someone else to heat treat, i have heated all my previous knives with my coal forge, and tempered with a toaster. i just had a thought though, although maybe this would be better suited to ask in the coal forge section, but what if i added another air source from the side, would that increase the size of the hot spot? i recently got a double squirrel cage blower for 2$at a yardsale, so if it would help i could rig them up to get more air spread over a larger area