ross_lad
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Everything posted by ross_lad
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right, and does the blade simply air cool after drawing temper? why do punches and such differ? mostly the same steel types are used...is it just the amount of stress that will be put on the object when it is used? and what is the appropriate temperature for tempering a blade?
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im not going to attempt to hide my ignorance because it won't get me anywhere.... I have seen other blacksmiths temper tools by simply heating them up to a blue (or whatever appropriate color for the tool) and quench at that heat to temper, and i have copied the practice on my own tools with success. However, after reviewing some old threads, i see that it seems blades require hours at a steady temp. Could someone please give a steady explanation?
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tacking on the cover for the top chamber -
tacking on the cover -
3 panels assembled with nozzle -
waiting to be assembled -
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waiting to be attached... -
cutting out air flaps for the "mini-great-bellows" -
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cutting out the panels for a simplistic bellows design -
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just a couple of my first leaves -
do you have a double bevel on that?
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problem solver
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"The Art of Blacksmithing" by Alex Bealer "The Complete Bladesmith" by Jim Hrisoulas
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depending on guard size of course...
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so really, welding wouldn't matter if i HT after the pommel is attached, right? has anyone ever heat shrunk a pommel on?
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for pommels: should i weld or shrink them on? same question for guards anyone have some suggestions?
