DC712001

Thanks for the reply. I thought it was likely "Normal" construction, but someone else that looked at it, said that the "waist" looked like a repair job.

Compared to other anvils I've seen, the "Join" looked sort of ugly, so it got me paranoid about the seam. Still, in examining it, it didn't look quite like a "Weld-repair" either.

Thanks Again.

Though construction practices may have evolved over time, I read that Peter Wright Anvils were constructed of (several) pieces of New Iron (no scrap was used.) The Iron pieces were Wrought or Forged into a single base-and-body, then a piece of Sheffield Steel was Forge-Welded to the body.

Is this correct or if not, how was a typical anvil constructed?

One reason for my asking, I recently purchased a PW Anvil and noticed an Odd seam between the base and body.

As I examined the seam in question, I though this anvil must have been broken at some point in the past and was Weld-Repaired. Upon closer inspection, it doesn't look like a Weld. There are no "puddle" marks and no sign of grinding-marks either. It looks more like Forging Marks.

Also, there "seems" to be a crack?/Seam? on the bottom edge of the join-point between the base and body.

Looks more like it was Forge-Welded together, but I'm not entirely sure how to interpret what I am seeing. Is this "Normal" or more likely some form of repair? The odd-seam is in the area between the "Solid Wrought" stamping and the Weight is Hundredweight stampings.

Thanks for the replies. The reason I thought it might be a Serial Number, was that I read that some of the later-produced anvils had serial-numbers, but that information may be erroneous.

My Peter Wright was Media Blasted, bare.

When I bought it, I painted the body with 2,000-degree-rated Primer and Flat-Black 2,000-degree paint.

If it is "Clean," Clear-Coat Paint might work. Have used it on other items to keep rust away while allowing the "Original" surface to show through.

I just bought my first Peter Wright Anvil. I cleaned it up a bit and found these steel-stampings.

PETER
WRIGHT
PATENT
MADE in ENGLAND
SOLID WROUGHT (arranged in a circle)
Next, the three digit weight numbers,

Then, midway between the "Weight" numbers and anvil base, what looks to be a serial-number: 2068

Finally, at the very bottom just above the base: S

The "2068" sure looks like a Serial Number, but I don't know.

Due to the "Made in England" markings, I would assume it was produced after March of 1891. With regards to the country of origin marking, it was stated in section 6, page 58 in the original printed McKinley Tariff Act of 1890:

"That on and after the first day of March, eighteen hundred and ninety-one, all articles of foreign manufacture, such as are usually or ordinarily marked, stamped, branded or labeled, and all packages containing such or other imported articles, shall, respectively, be plainly marked, stamped, branded, or labeled in legible English words, so as to indicate the country of their origin; and unless so marked, stamped or branded, or labeled they shall not be admitted to entry."

Postman suggested the "Made in England" as being after 1910, but others suggest that 1891 is more correct.

In any event, would really like to know the "Vintage" year of production of this anvil.

Thank You.

Granted, water will cause cracking (or worse) to 5160 spring steel 90% of the time, so that was a bad initial suggestion on my part. My point was to Quench it rapidly (Normalize) as opposed to slow-cooling it in vermiculite. Then, you could re-heat/anneal and continue processing.

IF it IS 5160 (or some similar grade of spring-steel from an old truck spring,) it should be forged, then Normalized (heated to Critical-Temperature then cooled in still air or oil-quenchant,) followed by annealing, grinding, hardening, tempering and final-grinding.

Here is a good link on the subject:

5160 Blade Forging Ed Caffrey article

Have you tried hammering into a reversed-curve, opposite to the natural bend just to see what happens?

Have you tried using a Jig to restrain it during cooling?

Have you tried heating, then water-quench, followed by reheat and anneal by slow cooling?

Wonder if higher temp might work?

Seems almost like Shape-Memory-Alloy, but that is most unlikely.

Shape memory alloy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Titanium exhibits "shape-memory" but old truck springs aren't Titanium.

Thanks for the reply and links.

I also read from a "Fundamentals of Metallurgy" text, something about molten Iron acting much like a solvent in dissolving other higher-melting-point-temperature elements.

I have a Metallurgical Question.

Some Steels and Metal-Alloys include Tungsten in their composition. In producing/smelting these Steels and Alloys (with Tungsten,) how does it combine?

Since Tungsten melts at 6170 Degrees f, and Iron melts at 2798 degrees f, how do they mix/combine?

Does the Tungsten remain as solid particles in the solution of molten Iron? If so, is the Tungsten ground into fine particles before it is added to the melt, or is Tungsten's melting point reduced when in the presence of molten Iron as a catalyst, or do they heat the melt to 6170 degrees to get the materials to flow/combine?

Of course, it's not just Tungsten. When Titanium is added, it melts at 3035 degrees f, tantalum at 5425 degrees f, etc. Many different elements are adeded to Steel, alloys, etc.

Just curious.

What grade of steel are common lawn-mower (not the "REEL" type, but the Rotary-Type) made of?

Thanks for the links Neatguy. Good to know there is a source for Square-Hole Drill Bits.

Wondering...are they prohibitively expensive (ballpark prices?) I understand you also need the "special" chuck to allow the drill-bit to work.

Have you considered a "Square Hole Drill Bit?"

Drilling Square Holes
by Scott Smith

A bit that drills square holes ... it defies common sense. How can a revolving edge cut anything but a circular hole? Not only do such bits exist (as well as bits for pentagonal, hexagonal and octagonal holes), but they derive their shape from a simple geometric construction known as a Reuleaux triangle (after Franz Reuleaux, 1829-1905).

Another possibility (in that price range) would be an Oxy-Acetylene Torch, Welding Tips, Hose, Tanks and Cart. You could Gas-Weld.

That was my first welding investment (before buying a buzz-box A/C arc-welder or MIG welder.)

When I first began welding (late 1970's/early 1980's), low-end "cheap" MIG welders were in the $1,000-plus range (before the advent of cheaper foreign and Chinese imports and overseas production,) and that is $1,000 uncorrected for inflation (so more like $3,000, give-or-take, in 2008 dollars.)

As for your current situation, you could always shop around at local welding-supply stores. This is their discount-shopping season, and in the current economy, they may be willing to deal you a good price/cut you a break.

Depends on various factors. How thick/thin a material do you plan to weld, duty-cycle/continuous-use? Also, how good a weldor are you? Actually, a cheap "buzz-box" is more difficult to use, than a more expensive and capable welding-machine.

Many, many years ago, when I learned how to weld (at a local community college and OJT at the company I worked at) I bought a Miller Buzz-Box A/C welder. It was REALLY tough to get it to work right, and forget about trying to weld light gauge.

Eventually (around twenty-years later,) I bought a Lincoln SP-170 Amp MIG Welder. With the tall-Argon-tank, it was around $570 (7-years ago.) Money well spent, it does the job very well, on fairly light-gauge material all the way to 1/4-inch plate.

Used equipment (if you can assess condition and KNOW what you're looking at) might be a way to go.

In one regard you're in luck. This IS the time of year (holiday season) that welding supply stores typically have their lowest prices/best sales.

Wish I could recommend Harbor Freight Tools (a cheap source) but for the Welding Unit itself, it is usually best to stick with a well-known American brand (Lincoln, Miller, Hobart, etc) as repair/replacement parts are often hard to find for foreign/off-brands.

Would say that my $50 self-darkening hood and many of the welding-related tools from Harbor Freight have worked out well.

Speaking of that, a self-darkening hood is a big help, particularly if you are a beginner or low on experience.

I prefer 220 Volt, but the 110-volt unit (I could have ordered the same Lincoln SP-170 as either 110 or 220-Volts) "may" have worked out Ok (though the points made previous seem valid, (might trip your circuit-breaker.)

If (in your garage) you have an electric clothes-dryer 220-volt outlet (with suitable circuit-breaker protection/wiring) you might be able to buy or make a plug-adapter to allow for a 220-Volt welder hookup.

Thanks for the replies.

Yes, "Fish Plates" ARE "Joint Bars" and not "Tie Plates."

I have read that some people use Tie-Plates as floor-anvils/upsetting-plates for upsetting rod material and others cut-down tie-plates and forge the material into knives.

I've heard they are likely Medium-carbon steel (1050,) but would like a more definitive verification.

4 mm is around 0.150 inches or between 1/8 and 3/16-inch deep pits/wear. A photo of the pits/wear might help in the diagnosis.

If the damage is extensive, my guess is that you could use a 90-degree grinder with a cup-type grinding stone to resurface the anvil face.

Depending on the damage, you might want to weld-repair with hard-facing filler (rod or 0.045-inch or 1.15 mm MIG wire,) then grind/resurface.

A competent machine-shop could likely affect repairs and resurface, but at a cost.

I know this has been asked/answered before, but I can't find it.

I don't see it in the "Blueprints" section of Common or Rail Road Steels (unless I just don't recognize what the table is calling it.)

Thanks for the replies. I always thought of Stainless Steel as being (all things considered) typically Harder material, certainly than mild-steel.

Granted, there are various grades of SS, and various conditions of heat-treatment. Just wondered where it roughly fits in for dent-resistance, etc.

Around an hour (60-miles) south of Costa Mesa, is Vista, California. There is a Blacksmithing group at the Antique Gas and Steam Engine Museum.

They have an active Blacksmith Shop and hold Blacksmithing classes, etc.

Welcome to the Vista California Antique Gas & Steam Engine Museum Blacksmith Shop


More Photos of the shop:

http://www.agsem.com/black-200706.html

They are affiliated with the California Blacksmiths Association:

http://www.calsmith.org/

I have visited the shop during a tour of the museum. I want to get there in the next few months to take a class or two.



Copyrighted photos removed

"Ashes" are considered a type of insulating-media to slow-cool metals, as is sand, vermiculite, lime, or other insulating materials, etc in the packing-process, as opposed to furnace-cooling, water, brine or oil-quench, "rapid" or "still" air-cooling, etc.

This link has a brief (1-page) description of various thermal or heat-treatment processes:

Fundamentals of Airframe Repair

Or this slightly longer (12-page) link:

http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/navy/nrtc/14250_ch2.pdf

Appreciate the replies, thanks.

I guess I'm also wondering (if cost were no object) would Stainless Steel be an acceptable/good choice as compared to steel anvils from the standpoint of toughness, rebound, etc? How would it compare better/worse/same?

Is there such a thing as a Stainless-Steel Anvil or could a thick piece of stainless be used as an anvil?

I know that the cost-of-material for stainless would make it cost-prohibitive in most instances, but I was just curious if they exist, or if the material itself could serve as a suitable forge surface, if say, you happened upon a thick piece of SS scrap?

Hey, thanks again for all the great ideas, suggestions and advice.

Lots to consider.

Appreciate the replies, link, advice, etc.

I already thought about drilling a few holes in the face to secure it to the ASO in areas beyond just the edges. If I go this route, I'll likely try that too.

The reason I'm considering this, is that I have been looking around locally for an anvil for the last three months. Checked out EBay too.

Tried to find some used Rail-Road Rail and also looked for a supplier for heavy (3-to-4-inch) Plate, but not much luck with that thus far. I bought some (relatively) thick steel 1 1/4-inch thick) plate ($0.50/lb scrap piece) and heavy 6-inch I-Beam, but would like a "Real" anvil eventually, when I can find a decent deal.

I can afford around $250 for an anvil, but this has to include shipping. Most places that have an anvil I can afford, are far enough away, that shipping amounts to $100 or more.

I have feelers out and I'm sure that over the next six-months to a year, something will turn up locally that I can pick-up on my own, and avoid the high shipping costs.

Thanks. So, not Wrought-Iron.

Still, can welding a steel face on work?

Also, if not wrought-iron, is the Cast-Iron in an Anvil-Shaped-Object (such as the HFT 55-pound item,) "white-cast-iron," "grey-cast-iron," or "gray-Ductile-cast-iron?"

As in this Wikipedia quote below:

Cast iron contains 2–4% carbon, 1–6% silicon, and small amounts of manganese. Contaminants present in pig iron that negatively affect material properties, such as sulfur and phosphorus, have been reduced to an acceptable level.
It has a melting point in the range of 1420–1470 K, which is lower than either of its two main components, and makes it the first product to be melted when carbon and iron are heated together.

Its mechanical properties vary greatly, dependent upon the form carbon takes in the alloy. 'White' cast irons contain their carbon in the form of cementite, or iron carbide. This hard, brittle compound dominates the mechanical properties of white cast irons, rendering them hard, but unresistant to shock.

The broken surface of a white cast iron is full of fine facets of the broken carbide, a very pale, silvery, shiny material, hence the appellation.

In grey iron the carbon exists free as fine flakes of graphite, and also renders the material brittle due to the stress-raising nature of the sharp edged flakes of graphite.

A newer variant of grey iron, referred to as ductile iron is specially treated with trace amounts of magnesium to alter the shape of graphite to spheroids, or nodules, vastly increasing the toughness and strength of the material.