stevomiller

I've used a mix of linseed oil w/bees wax to good effect. I painted it on when the steel was at a black heat that made the mixture smoke but not flare up.

I have had good luck using scrounged steels from axles (1050?), car springs (5160), and jack hammer bits (S5 and S2). All have been free for the asking, except for the occassional bribery of beer:rolleyes:

I believe that the best "new" steel would be S7 or H13, depending on the usage you had planned. These can be bought through tool steel suppliers, or drops can be bought for a reduced price on ebay.

Nice anvil Uri. Would you make a run of different sizes or just one size? What do you feel the ideal hardness of the face would be, and how deep would it be hardened? I understand that 6150 is a very tough steel, but are there other reasons for the choice?

Thanks,
Steve

Dodge, that is quite an anvil that you are making. Is the face tool steel?

I used this anvil quite abit in the past, with no problems. I then damaged my wrist and could forge for many years. Unfortunately, I left it at the historical farm that I used to volunteer at ~ other folks didn't have the same aversion to striking its face with hammers and cutting tools that I did. It now has quite a few marks that are about .015-.030 deep in various spots.

I'm toying with pounding iron again and see how I hold up (I know the anvil will be ok). I don't think I will face it again, though.

Can you think of a reasonable method of testing to see if it could be heat treated to a higher hardness?

Hey folks, only my second post here; was hoping you might be able to help me out. I have an anvil that I think is no newer than the early '70's, might be quite a bit older though. It is marked:

Gardiner MFG CO
Oakland, CA
GARCO THOR
150 LBS
Solid Steel
V

I think that it is cast, due the raised text on the side. The casting seems to be good quality. It is a traditional London or American style anvil. It did not have a pritchel hole when I got it 15 years ago (I drilled one), and it appears that it may not have come with a hardy hole (and some numb nut perhaps used a torch to put one in, then filed it). I had the face ground down about 1/8" to clean it up, since a previous smith had cut with a chisel on the face. All corners, etc are in good shape. It appears that it is somewhat soft, and I figure it is because of the hardy hole incident.

I can't find anything out about it online. It appears that Gardiner was a large forge and casting works from what little I was able to find out. Any info from you folks would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

I've made hardies and handled punches/chisels out of jackhammer bits. I got old/broken ones for free from a place that rented jackhammers; they had buckets full of them. Most automotive shops will give you coi and leaf springs.