horseshoe182

engineering suppliers will (should) stock every drill size, hardware stores just stock standard drill sizes and usually inferior quality too. and welding supply shops will stock a vast array mig tip types and sizes.  

 

cheers Michael

i would most probably use 316 stainless rods to weld it. but try and get some heat into it, even if just a little bit. i,ve used stainless rods many times on cast parts with success.

 

i did weld cast leg back onto a old guillotine  with full weld prep. it never broke off again.

 

the legs could be designed in such a way that the leg load is spread out , in an effort to reduce stress on each leg.      

hi mr Wooldridge. Tiging stainless can be a trickery thing. I,ve done a bit(lot) . Like bryce said the grease, after dressing the damaged area i would thorougly clean with a metho solution. and then over lap the corners and place very small fusion tacks every 20 to 25mm. if you don,t it will buckle while you weld it. you can purge or use a backing palte/block, i would purge. and run the amps at about what you have ,50. Is 20 gauge 2-3mm? 45 to 50 sounds ok. start in the corners and weld out with one pass only , but it should penerterate if your purging(no holes). the weld shouldn,t be black and this indicates that the weld iis to hot. The thing with stainless is that if it,s welded to hot, the heat will burn out important elements in the steel, and the may cause premerture wear/corriode, however as it,s a grease vat it won,t corriode but the cylconic heating and cooling may cause it to stress crack again. hope this helps

And i forgot, you can take it to a machine shop and get it machined out on a mill.
Mick

Can you take it to a machine shop and get them to punch it out on a hole puncher? Because it is 1/8 drill in 3/8 it might be a stretch. I work with 316 stainless and it is soft in comprassion to carbon steel. However I,m not formillaler with 416 stainless, do you mean 316 stainless? If you drill from the other side why can,t you punch out the drill with a small centre punch? Or best of all, take it to a lazer cutter shop and get them it cut it out, it will be done perfect but you will have to pay. My last answer is let it rust away in there and then drill it out, a drop of acid will speed up the process, it is stainless so it will be ok. I wouldn,t put any heat near it.
In a fabrication workshop, If you break a tapp or drill, no one wants to know you, it is a real hard one to fix. But it can be fixed. Just be pataiant with it, cause its not an "easy fix". You just have to find an engennging solution to it. An would be a shame to damage a project for lack of a solution.

Mick

Hello night_wish2
I reckon you are using 1/8 rod too, is that right? I don't know if i'd be using that size on 1/2" plate for vertical up. How long is the weld? If you weld the hole rod, by the time you get half way through the rod, the plate and weld may get to hot and become difficult to control the weld, as you said "lots of globular piles"

I have no problems about the rod type, just it,s the size, application and your amps are to high.
Your pause is to long. The way you,re set up, you will need to move much quicker.

So, to big a rod + to high amps + weld to slow = poor weld and problerly undercut.
I would try 6013 2.4mm rod I use them on any polarity , do some test runs first, I would try the amps at 75 to start with.
Where are the pic,s?

Cheers

Hi naked,
How did you go with the 2 inch stuff, long pipe hangin off it (leverage).

In order to concentrate the heat did you use a heating torch and oxy/act set?

What is an induction coil?

I,m very shore that you have a cross contamination problem. And what that means is ;- When mild steel scarches, rubs against stainless it will comaminate it. Also using a steel wire brush or one that has been used on steel, using a grinding wheels, cutting wheels, linisher, polisher/buff that perviously been used on mild steel will contaminate the stainless, using (mild steel) contaminated abrasives impregnates the stainless with mild steel particles. And then starts the rusting. How does that happen? most poeple say, "its stainless it can,t rust" sombody has used a contaminated abrasive on it, or it,s just come in contact with steel.

In a industry fabrication workshop, it is always to best to speperate the mild steel workshop and the stainless workshop or take special percautions. That is because of cross contamintion. What the industry practise is to have dedicated abrasives and sometimes dedicated work areas. If your working on a big dollar stainless job, you don,t just pick up a grinder and use it on the stainless, you must know that the grinding wheel is a dedicated stainless wheel or containation may happen.

I don,t like your chances of reversing your problem, Maybe passivate and clean with a new scotchbrite pad, or a few new flap disks or a few new linishing belts. Don,t use a wire brush on it unless it is a "stainless wire brush". And then add a nice lite oil, there have been many good sugestions, I like WD40.

Good luck with it.

And check your primary curcit (power cable) maybe the plug and or leed is damaged.

Also, is the power supply working ok?

Looks to me that your speed is to fast and or arc is to great. Greater penitrating rods aren,t really needed, as you,ll problerbly blow the crap out of the 2mm sheet anyway. A steel or copper backing plate will always aid in excessive heat dissipation. Welding 2mm material is not easy with a stick, a mig is ideal.
As someone here said, the smaller the rod the harder it is. Welding 2mm stuff you will need speed and good control. You could practice first on some light plate to get your hand and eye in. A shade 9 lens is what I would use on this light stuff.

Mick

Don,t worry to much Hillbilly. I know I am guilty of misreading posts to. You sound like a nice guy and also know a lot of welding theroy, I recoken by reading your posts that you will end up an ace welder and will proberly get your welding tickets too. If you were in Oz, we would say "don,t worry, lets go have and brew down the pub".

Cheers

Hey good storie nakedanvil, you sound like a cool dude to know. Yeah some poeple have a couple of dollars and some don't, so what. You must have a vauge idea of the direction of where you are going with a big dollar item, at least you have the xxxx to have a go.
I get ideas all the time, sometimes I make them and sometimes not, sometimes I will just draw them up on my three dimensional drawing computer program, and I can make it later.
I find those that travel the path less traveled most interesting.

Cheers

Hey Hillbill, it was his first go at vertical up. Shore its not perfect but Bryce could come and weld for me any time. Do you think he has done anything right?, as you realy have put up quite a list of welding flaws. Lets see some of your vertical ups.
I,m sorry ,but I find this post a little offensive. Bryce has posted his first time efforts, and here you are with two years weld experience really stick,in the boot, so to speak. We are all here to learn from one another, but carm down mate.

Both welds look good. If I was to be picky I would say the beginning bit on the second weld , the weave apprears to be to coarse, or to say, moving up the weld pool in to much in the cycle, keep it tighter. you have good control and good consistancy. In Oz, we are taught to weld vertical up in two passes, first pass- small root run, second pass- an one cap. But it looks like you,ve done it in one pass, nothing wrong with that, but you are more prone to Crowning as you call it. In a two pass, it tends to flatten more. Your stops and starts are good too. I think you are a good welder.

Are you asking me Bryce?
If so, I used an Esab Caddy welder ( small DC mobile welder) I would have used 2.5mm 316 S,Steel rods with amps at about 75-85, and no pre-heat. Not to high with the amps when welding S.steel out of normal position, because the weld pool will runaway on you. This job can be done with any AC or DC welder, no trick welders needed. I use S.steel on all of my cast welding.

I have welded cast iron many times with stainless steel rods, stick or tig.


This leg on a guilotine was welded up with S.steel rods many months ago, it is still in good order today.

That the yellow stuff (emulsified oil and water) does,nt come out of my compresser and if it did I would be concerned that the rings where worn out.

And if they were, the efficentcy would be bad, the electic motor may get to hot and damage itself because of extended use to get it up to preasure. I don,t know what you use it for, but I wouldn,t load it up to much.

20 something years ago the ozzie goverment forced me to go and do a short welding coarse, or they would cut off my social sercurity payments (goverment hand outs for unemployed), so I went. Yeah I was a really bludger, a dole bludger.
I was early 20,s and didn,t know my elbow form my a%se, an I didn,t want to be a welder.
After the short welding coarse I figured it was ok, an that I would give it a go. On and off, over the next 20 years I put myself through night school, learning how to weld and be a boilermaker.
5 years ago after meany years in the boilermaking trade I got my trade ticket, 2 years ago I stopped going to night school, and passed my Workcover welding tests for tig, the "workcover test" is the highest tig welding standard in oz. So I thought I did ok for a bludger.
I learned how to work to.

Mark out square hole,
Mark out centre,
Drill centre,
Mark out corners,
Drill out corners with very small drill (3mm)
Mark out and drill out excess material,
Finish with small handheld linisher or cold chisiel and file finish.
Long "series" drills can be used.
Industrial Long Series Drills

If I had a chioce of cutting oil or water, I would use water every time. As water keeps the drill cooler ,doesn,t give off posionious fumes ,is free ,you can pour it on and it just dries up and try that with oil, what a mess.

The main idea is to keep the drill cool cos heat kills drills. Soluble oil and water is king, but I,ve drilled many times one inch holes in stainless and no problems with just water.Sharp drills also aid in drill bit longevity.

I use "Marking out INK" not paint, like ApprenticeMan said. Drys in a couple of minutes. It is in a small preasure pack( can ) and works good.

I understand you are a white man with black hands.

Thats how it started with Michael Jackson, but in reverse, he went from black to white.

Are you related to Michael Jackson

Now the Jackson six.

Hello and welcome eddiebrug
At work we use Pferd brand grinding and cutting, sizes are for cutting, 5" dia. 1mm thick, 9" dia. 1.9mm thick. They work good. I don,t buy 'em so I don,t care about the cost. Wouldn,t waste my time with a 4" grinder (I call them welding grinders cos thats about all there good for)

Cheers Michael

The "ideal" anvil is the one that best supports *your* methods of work and items you generally make! Look at some of the new ones with the graduated punching holes in them.

Why do a custom piece and then want it to look just like a common commercial item?

Yes, good point Thomas, I will make myself a real flash twin horn, side shelf, jobbing block, special holes everywhere, all bells and whistles later, but for now I want to made a commerical unit to sell. I have never seen a twin horn in OZ. before, so I don,t know how well it would sell, so I,ll stick with a known pattern. Some might think "twin horn fabricated anvil, heavens forbid" (and maybe not) I,ll try and keep it simple.

These are some prices we pay in OZ, so I have to complete with these sorts of prices
Australian Anvil O,dwyer 88lbs = from $614usd = $767aud
NC Cavarly 112lbs = from $864usd = $1078aud
@ .80cent in the dollar.

I will try to source scrap only and my overheads are very low. And I can,t help myself as I,ve always got projects on the boil. I will give it a go and see how it goes. I will probably sell it on ebay.

Am looking forwards to seeing those pic,s of your anvil Dave, can we see progress pic,s

Cheers Michael

If that anvil could talk?