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I Forge Iron


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Posts posted by D H B

  1. I've got the 4.5" grinder ( Harbor Freight special for a one-off project a couple of years ago ).

    Just learned about flex back sanding disks based on your post here.  Hurray!  I used a flap wheel for the rough leveling I needed to attach that chunk of 2x12.

    And no guff out of you boys, or I'll make you run the ditto machine with the door shut :D

  2. The small trailer available nearby is from Northern, not HF.  And it's pre-built, and for less than Northern would cost.  But again, ran the fun-money down into the red, so it'll be a while before that's an option again.

    And you all are right, people don't seem to want to tailgate me for some reason.... :D

  3. All in all, it's my least unsafe option.  If they made a trunk-top rack I definitely would have preferred that, though it would look even more insane than my current setup.

    There's a small trailer for sale at a great price nearby, but I tapped out the Fun Budget through about July.

    Yeah, I just need to get a truck when the wheels fall off this thing.

  4. Yup.  Carrier is 500lb limit, tongue weight is 200lb limit.

    Carrier is 29lb, wood about 15lb.  50lb tank will never weigh more than 85-90 full.

    So!  I'm pretty comfortable with 60+ pound margin.  Thanks for thinking of gotchas, I'm pretty new at this.

  5. Drove around with the anvil strapped on at about 70mph for about 45 mins while running errands today, just to see how warm the frame / wood / anvil got.  Temps were fine, but I'm probably going to add 3/4" plywood with steel flashing on the back just to make myself feel better.

    Good tip on the taillight; I thought of the license plate but not the other.  With the ratchet straps attached to the child safety ISOFIX/LATCH points in the trunk and/or a balanced load, blocking the taillight shouldn't be a problem as the load will stay vertical.

    Definitely will want to move to a trailer when I can find a good deal, but the rack was a ton cheaper.  Appreciate the advice!


  6. I have a tiny car and a 50lb propane tank.  Solved, should be okay with NFPA and ODOT ( bungies were just for fit ).

    Tomorrow's project, work on that log, add some scrap lumber, and mount the anvil.



  7. This is the portion I'm currently trying to solve , though I'm fairly certain I'm going about asking it all wrong  :D

    Scale and/or flame interference potentially preventing accurate measurement is the reason I'm wanting to measure the gas temps inside instead of a touchless.

    I have no plans for intentionally melting iron or steel today, but if I'm spending a largish sum on a measurement tool I definitely want it to include the capability for Future Bad Ideas.

    set the furnace temperature and monitor it

  8. That's the second & third recommendation for "Talk to a Sales Engineer at Omega" I've received ( I'm asking all-of-everybody ).  Seems like it's probably the right way to go.

    Definitely I'm looking at what I want, not what I need :D  What I 'need' is to print out a steel color chart.  What I -want- is +-~5C at a glance up to ~1600C sustained.

    My understanding ( limited ) is that Type B Pt/Rh with al2o3 insulator + sheathe should probably get me there, and a larger probe will react slower than a small one.  Makes sense ( I think? )

  9. Is checking for jaws parallel and smooth open / close enough?


    I figure if the threads were damaged or the box was cracked you'd see it when you have it cranked wide open, but will be the first time I looked at one with the expectation of buying it.

  10. I'm in the market for a solid box / leg / post vise, but mostly what I run across is a single picture.


    Rather than driving all over to check them out, I'd like to at least ask initial questions or request particular photos.


    Here's what I've got so far.  For what other information or photos should I be asking?

    • Do the jaws open smoothly the whole way?  Do they close all the way?
    • How much does the thing weigh?
    • How big are the jaws, and how wide do they open?
    • Are the mounting bracket and spring in good shape?
  11. Snagged some pictures at my father-in-law's shop.  The little guy is easy to identify, but I'd like to narrow down the range on the Hay Budden if possible.

    • Under the horn there is a '2' on both sides of a square hole
    • The side of the heel is stamped '43'
    • The serial no. appears to start '16718....'
    • Under the manufacturer's stamp, it is marked '1 1 8'


    Ideas / follow up questions?  I'd love to get a closeup of the complete SN from the foot, but it's fairly well covered by a piece of angle iron.  Ditto goes for turning it over and finding out what kind of depression it might have.


    In any case, as far as we know this family may be the sole owner of the Hay Budden.  My FIL remembers his dad mentioning it had been around as long as -he- could remember, e.g. it possibly started out with my FIL's grandfather.

  12. If you like it you did well; if you don't like it you didn't do so good.  I picked up my swedish cross pein for 1/2 price from a fellow who bought one when it was the latest hammer fad and then didn't like it in use.  Suits me ok.

    I'm not sure I've done enough to understand whether or not I like it.... BUT!  The handle feels a bit thick and long, and the blue coating doesn't do anything for the rough spots on the head.


    I think I'll probably be cleaning up the metal by hand for a bit, taking into account the many cheap-hammer-gone-good stories I've read here.  I suppose this is my intro thread, so "Hey!"

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