Sam Salvati

WOW that is perfect!

Got these nails figured out, I forge a ball on a stem using a ball spring swage, then just taper the stem and put it in my slowly evolving swage block
and head it over. You only need a hole in a block, not a header if your upset head is big enough to give and form a shoulder. Just mild steel.

Keith, nice work!!! Great idea. I love your wire wheel too, for a second there thought you used that shaft to wrap em, heat it stick it in the bolt then turn it on and hang on!!!

Bruce sells plans, why would he give them away for free?

because selling them here is a violation of IFI terms of service http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/160-read-this-before-posting-the-rules-for-tailgating/ as you full well know

LOL thanks Dan!!!

A friend contacted me for a set of hinges for a project he is working on, hinges for a small cabinet. That friend is Michael Pekovich who is the art director for Fine Woodworking magazine, and the cabinet is the latest in his blog, just in time for the new Hobbit movie coming out, a Hobbit cabinet. The idea behind it being, design and build a cabinet that might be easily seen in Bilbo's house, using traditional hand working techniques and methods but not strictly adhering to a specific school of woodworking design. I had met Mike through Peter's Valley when he was teaching woodworking there and I was the apprentice in the blacksmith shop, and we had collaborated on a marking knife design.

Here is a link to his blog:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/58100/the-birth-of-a-hobbit-cupboard

and I am honored to say my hinges will finish it out:













Forged from 10 gauge mild steel, 1/4"pin non welded barrels.

LOL you answer your own question. Tapered "roughly" from 1/4" to 1/8", that taper should be easy enough to forge and grind by eye.

by bumpers do you mean rubber?

 I think you are about spot on there Sam.

Yes rubber bumpers like a helve or upright Bradley.

A very ridgid spring setup Or more bumpers actually would be better I think, short stroke setting on the pitman and a high BPM ratio on the motor hookup.

I like this idea, not a hammer for doing heavy lifting but light and fast for thin stuff.

Thank you, Simon. I/we appreciate your efforts and video works.

Seconded!

No doubt it can be done, but mostly the exception to the rule not the regular.

Not sure, the whole sow and die weights maybe 30- pounds

Scored this sow block and lower die setup, supposedly off of a drop hammer. The die is stamped Air Kool (which is an A2 trade name) the other side with a date and what I think is the Rockwell C hardness (58). Came with a key and everything, there is a keeper center pin.

Forge the eye offset 1" off one side, BIG offset dog head sledge.

LOL Hollis!

CUTE Lathe! Nice SHORT bed

Wells, will cut forever.

Vixen files are awesome!

Just do two at the same time, do each bend one after the other while one heats bend one then while that heats do the same bend

Love it! Looking real good Bruce.

AWESOME machine Hollis, wow. I have been looking for a shaper recently also.

I think this one belongs in the ''otherwise'' collum....hehe

SCORE!!! Wow.

Bruce could I retrofit this on my machine? Looks greaT!

Phil, you make it sound like you have built alot of machinery :D I think it's more accurate adjustment then the weights, and no need to overcomplicate with pivots or air djustment KISS keep it simple stupid while still improving.

Sam's saw is the way to go..... However the "pivot point " should sit between the blade and the motor with a 10% bias toward the motor side ie. if you let go the blade lifts instead of "digging in. And you should think about having the switch in the front.

Sorry Sam,I don't want to sound like the h&s gestapo but small mods and its much safer. P.s. I mount a 3KW 380V motor on ours and that don't take no prisoners.