Mulciber
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200amp Tig Welder/50amp Plasma Cutter/Arc welder,IGBT NEW! - $800 (delivered)
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PowerUltra 205
Category: DC Cut Tig Arc (MMA)
Purpose: DC Multi-Function Welding/Plasma Cutting Combination Unit
200 Amp rated DC TIG (GTAW)
190 Amp Rated Stick (SMAW)
50 Amp Plasma Cutter (PAC) with Pilot Arc
Technology:
Genuine Infineon IGBT based electronics
Operating Dual Voltage:
208/220vac 50/60HZ Input Single Phase 1PH
50amp cut draws 25Amps
Open Circuit Voltage: 60-80V
60% Duty Cycle @ Rated Amperages
Thermal Overload Protection
Weight: 40
Size: 17x8x12 inches
Plasma Cutting Specs:
3" Per minute @ 7/8" Steel (Severance Cut )
7" Per minute @ 3/4" Thick Steel1
7" Per minute @ 1/2" Thick Steel Minimum requirement for air compressor: 3.5 cfm
50 Amps Plasma cutter: Duty Cycle 60% at 50 Amps
TIG and Arc Welder
200 Amps DC Tig Welder: Duty Cycle 60% at 200 Amps
190 Amps Stick Welder: Duty Cycle 60% at 190 Amps
High Frequency Start
Post Flow:0-20 Seconds
2 T/4T setting for foot pedal or torch control
Internal High Speed Cooling Fan to Regulate Temperature.
What is Included?
Main Unit
Cutting Torch
TIG Torch
Stick Holder
Earth Clamp
Air Regulator with Bracket
Air Hose
Foot Pedal
Argon Regulator
Consumables: 3 piece tips, 3 piece electrodes, 3 piece gas diffuser, 3 piece shield cups
***Includes FREE DELIVERY and 5 year Warranty***
2 5 3- 9 5 1- x x x x
Location: delivered
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests -
To 'soundproof a room you can build 6" wall with the studs being standard 2x4s, stager each stud from side to side then insulate. the sound does not travel as well due to the fact the studs are not connected to both sides allowing the energy to pass through. Obviously this is not a perfect fix for every sound absorbing need but it does work for a lot of needs.
I have had better luck with anchoring my anvils to the base/stand with chains, front and rear, with a piece of 3/4" plywood between the anvil and stand. I use either a 180# HayBudden or my 127# SISCO. Both ring like church bells if not anchored, only a dull sound with anchoring as discribed. Good luck.
So that being said, do you think I could run the operation out of a standard 2 car garage? I'm finding it hard to find a place that works out well. I'm either out of my price range (1600 a month), I'm taking a serious compromise on my living standards to have a shop close or I'm gonna have to live too far away from my day job to have a commute less than 45 minutes.
There are a ton of places that would work out if I could work out of a garage. I just don't want to move into a place with the intention of smithing from the garage and then have a ton of issues.
Here's what I'm looking at but the house is like 8-900 sq ft and is divided kinda strangely. It's more garage than I need and has 80 amps of 220v. Super nice for smithing but a little less than perfect on the house end.
http://denver.craigslist.org/apa/963294729.html
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As far as soundproofing goes, airtight helps an awful lot. Another thing that helps keep the sound from traveling is diffusion. Trees, one of those military camoflage nets, corrugated metal with spray on insulation sprayed on are a few examples. The idea is that you want to make the sound bounce in a bunch of different angles so that it is not focused. -
I am moving mid January. I'm having trouble finding a suitable place to forge. I've been avoiding 2 car garages that are within 30ft of the neighbors house.
Question is, how much space do you really need to forge without the neighbors complaining. I plan on doing one of the following to keep the anvil from ringing, a sand filled base or a stump with chains and a magnet. I use a propane forge and wouldn't be working past 9pm. -
Anything's better than nothing. I personally don't care for the split leg much so I used the legs straps to tie the two leg pieces together rather than strap it them on. I love my apron even though it was cheap and is the split leg type. Just feels good putting it on. Kinda like a pre-forging ritual. Can't tell you how many times it's saved me too.
As far as the crossing in the back. I can't say how much better it is. I've got a 50" round chest so it's kinda a pain to get into place but once it's there it doesn't go anywhere. The over the neck style is easier to put on though. -
Makes my anvil look like Frankenstein. Good find! When I was looking I couldn't find anything near that nice for a reasonable price that wasn't 200$ to ship.
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I usually don't read posts that refer to how a blacksmith should use technology. Blacksmiths then were people like everyone on this forum is now. Some would use tech some would not. I'm gonna use every piece of technology I can possibly get my hands on. That being said I'll be honest when representing my work, I'll enjoy myself and I'll make money doing it. Call me what you want as I really don't care if you call me a blacksmith, a machinist or a blasphemous fool.
Don't derail the thread with more "a real blacksmith would ~" crud.
Back on topic, I've been pleasantly surprised how many people are interested in forged items. I haven't been smithing long enough to claim any level of mastery but people seem to love my items. Hand crafted items that the craftsman paid effort and energy to are a rare commodity. It is truly sad that society has gotten to the point where we are willing to pay for shoddy products.
Getting your name out there is the most important activity when making money is in mind. I let people know what it is that I do and they ask me if I can do things for them. I usually carry around a couple of keychain leaves to give away as a lead up to giving them my calling card. I'm working on a portfolio that I will have in case anyone is interested in viewing larger portions of work. I haven't landed any large jobs (500+ USD) yet but have had commissions up to 350. I'm not sure I am ready to take orders for anything larger at this point. Once I have my portfolio together I will advance to the point of building a website. Once that is together I will have several methods of attracting business. I'm thankful that I still have my 9-5 and am looking forward to enjoying a profitable hobby until I have the means, skill and direction to make it a business. I'm moving in January and I will be able to pick a place with a nice shop. Once I have earned enough money to purchase or make a power hammer I will probably go down the path of forming a business plan and officially registering.
Anyone here teach classes as a supplement to their blacksmithing business?
Anyone here have a company where they are employing a team such as other smiths, strikers or apprentice?
Anyone care to share any specific info on their business such as shop rates or overhead and the such I would love to dig through it. I'm pretty handy with excel so if you would like some help getting organized I would be glad to contribute some of my time.
Thanks to all who have taken the time to reply with their stories and info so far. I'm really thankful for the site and everyone sharing their knowledge. -
Looking at a copy of a 1908 Sears catalogue last night
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heres a pic of the metal
What're ya whining about an anvil for? Whatever that chunk of metal was set on when you took the pic would make a fine anvil!
You don't really need to do anything except perhaps secure that chunk of metal for the first 6 months you are smithing. I bought an anvil quickly because I was excited about it and had the disposable income. One funny thing though, my best piece made on a piece of RR track is better than most of my work done on my 200lb Trenton anvil. I wouldn't spend the time worrying about having an anvil shaped anvil when you're going to ding it up with sloppy hammer blows. Most of your first few months will be exploring different techniques. Plus it's a good feeling when you make something beautiful off something that didn't cost you an arm and a leg. When I have all the expensive equipment I feel like I'm supposed to be able to do better or that I should be doing better because I'm investing so much time and energy into buying expensive tools.
If you haven't caught my drift through all that because it was a long winded --> Get hammer time in. Anvil shaped anvil later. -
I have been thinking about this for a few years, in the UK we have en rated steel ie (these are only my estimate of types) en8=carbon steel en16=high carbon en35=coil springs en45=spring steel(leaf springs) could we build a comparison chart with the types from the US?.It would help me understand the types of steel talked about on here.
^ Sounds like we have a volunteer! -
I have a 100lb bottle, but I am using it on our gas logs for the winter. I had thought about a tub of water to set the tank in, I will try that. I guess using the torch to heat the bottle is out![/QUOTE]
That's right up there with Russian Roulette. I've done some stupid things but I would never recommend them to you. Get a 500 watt shop light from the store. They're about 7 bucks. Remember to turn it off when you're done.
Best of all would be to get another 100lb tank They're around 80 bucks at Home Depot. Here in Denver it's like 20% cheaper to fill and use a big tank than to keep refilling the bbq tank. -
ha i just want santa to pay off my credit card ... i used it to buy the coal and all the other stuff i needed!
^ I like that one
I want a couple blacksmithing lessons. I won't ever have enough tools but I can make due if I know what I am doing! Wouldn't mind doing an apprenticeship. I know it's hokey and doesn't really exist anymore but I would work for free if I had room and board. Would love to just focus on smithing for a while. All this other crap in my life could definently go to the sideboard. -
http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/anvil-cheap-7452/
I would probably do something like this. However, I would leave an end hanging over so that there's a place to make sharp bends. You will easily be able to last till May with the steel you already have. If you don't do that, I would cut one of the pieces in half and weld it to it self. I don't think you need 25" of working face. 12" will be more than enough. Lots of people use a piece of rail road track set on end. Whichever you do, make sure that you secure the piece firmly. The best method I've seen is to sink a spike into a log and set a chain over the "anvil" with the other side being a adjustable eye bolt (you turn it with a wrench and it has a hook or eye loop on both ends)
Depending on the type of steel you may try to temper the top. Many ways to do this and I would wager that it would be worth the effort.
When getting started you don't want to use a beautiful anvil because you WILL miss the metal from time to time and there's no reason to abuse a good anvil. I found a guy selling an old anvil that was already dinged up. I set a belt sander on it to remove the rust and started hammering. Later on when I'm confident that I'm not missing the metal anymore I will sand off another 1/8" so the face is smooth. If you think about it, if you're missing the metal once in a while your hammer control probably isn't good enough to make the metal look smooth enough where the dings in the anvil can be seen.
Welcome! Get safety glasses before you even buy a hammer. Too many reasons to have them in a blacksmith shop. I have an apron and hearing protection too. -
Get some safety glasses first. I don't even walk around in my shop without my safety glasses on. Blacksmith shop is the most dangerous type of shop. I know that sounds like overkill but trust me on this one. It's such an easy habit to adopt and such a heavy price to pay for screwing it up.
After the glasses buy a book or two. I recommend "The Art of Blacksmithing" by Alex Bealer. It's only 10 bucks at Barnes and Noble new. Next, order either "The New Edge of the Anvil" or "Backyard Blacksmithing" from Amazon.com used.
Go crazy and search for anyone in metalworking locally. There's alot of advice, tools and material you can gather just by saying hi. I always try to exchange value. Don't expect an apprenticeship but you can always ask if they need any help and if you are genuine it shows.
Go to the swap meet and find a couple hammers. Don't get anything over 2-1/2 lbs to start. I thought I was going to be a hurcules and use a big hammer but it turns out it's a curve where too light is too little work done and too heavy you get too slow and sloppy. 2 to 2-1/2 lbs seems to be the sweet spot for me.
Search out your local scrap yards. There's a couple here that don't pay for steel. When people bring em steel they throw it in a huge dumpster type thing and sell it pretty cheap if you let them know what you're doing.
If you can afford a class then take it. Otherwise just be smart, read and get in some hammer time. -
If ever I need an anvil, I'll know where to go.... that is.... if I knew where the musium was. Any clues on that one...
Thanks for posting the photos.... it's always a cool thing to share!
If you got the truck I'll bring the masks. They don't have guard dogs do they? I don't see it being too effective a getaway plan running from dogs with an anvil in hand.
Well, we all know what I'll be dreaming about for the next few days -
wow, Thats about $3 a pound.... i Guess you can expect to pat that nowadays.
I got mine from a guy from victoria island in b.c canada and i paid $1 a pound, totoal price =$100 for my 100 pounder. I think thats a little to much, but i might be wrong?
I payed 500 for a 200lb Trenton in medium shape and I think it's a good deal. So hard to find an anvil in Colorado.Yesterday I just went and picked up an anvil. Its roughly 100-105lbs. I cant find a dent, ding or scratch on the thing, its in excellent shape. If its been used it hasn't been used much. I payed $300 for it. Sounds like a reasonable price? Im in Canada as well so Im not sure what the prices are like in the US. My camera is broken right now but I'll try and get some pics up. Thank you for whoever answers.
Yeah, I'd have loved to find a perfect anvil at that price. I was about to hang up the hat on finding a used anvil untill I ran across the Trenton. New 100-120lb anvil will run you at least 500$US. -
Since when is bright orange a welding heat? Just buy some new stock of a known designation and get on with it . Even new, steel is still relatively cheap .
I agree in the sense that trying to make round stock out of something is kinda a waste of time. Just go get some round stock. Depending where you are and what you are doing with the round stock, rebar can be easily found. Otherwise just buy some round stock to begin with.
Go by a couple fabrication shops that do railings and such. I scored a 55 gallon drum full of stuff too short for them to use. Lots of 1/2" round and square just under 3' long. The other half the drum was filled with pieces between 6 and 12" of all sorts. Ended up helping him load a truck in exchange for the metal he was going to scrap. Don't be afraid to ask, you never know what you might get. Always be sure to ask though. Don't ever take anything otherwise.
Look up all your local metal recycling places. There's one not too far from where I am that doesn't pay for steel. Anyone brings them steel they put it in a big dumpster and they don't mind cutting a deal once they know what you're doing. -
Well, if there's really that much rust it won't be the thickness you are looking at once you finish getting the rust off. Unless the rust is extreme you can just throw it in the forge and the rust will come off with the scale.
As for a car tire handle, if you can deal with the steel belting then it would probably work ok. You would probably be better off going and getting something like a pneumatic dolly tire and using that instead since it doesn't have any belt in it. -
I think you mentioned that you are pretty new to smithing. I am fairly new also. Being new I would just leave the anvil the way it is. I took a belt sander to the top of my anvil for about 3 seconds to get the rust off. I left the pits in it because I'm just going to ding it more untill I've had enough hammer time to not miss the metal anymore. Once I get to the point where I won't ding the anvil anymore I will take the belt sander to it untill it's pristine. I was quite surprised that the dings really don't show through much when you're working on a piece. I only took the rust off because it smells funny when you lay a hot piece on it.
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Vice grips are possibly the worst known substitute for tongs; it is impossible to feel whether the metal is slipping until its too late, they are too short and you can't easily change the position of the grip. Making tongs is a wise safety measure and it's good practice.
No arguments here. If you search the forum for threads on injuries or burns you will find at least one poor soul who didn't know that untill it was too late. I've been using a small pair of pliers with the teeth ground off and a large set with the teeth ground off and the tip rounded for scrolling. They work great. I like how short they are. I hate long tongs. They're too heavy and I don't like how far I have to be away from the anvil. Needless to say I have a kevlar glove and an apron to keep the heat and scale off.That was my point. Do not try and sell me stuff that I do not need or can make myself.
Yeah!!!!...... Unless you try to sell it to me for a really good price! :mad: -
Makes 2 of us Frosty... And Jason, that might make you #3 ahead of your time! What's wrong with the main floor of the barn? You could notch out a small corner for your smithy and be good to go. IWT
I just moved my entire shop and let me tell you I couldn't have done it without using wheels. Forget stairs. I would have had to recruit help and even then it most likely it would have taken two days. -
Well i am close to a full time smith... and know a few that are and the best ones are good salesmen and real go getters.you have to be able to self promote and do 3 things at once . would also help to have good funding (i never have ) and a backup incase of problems. Probably best money is selling gates and railings but also easyest to fall into a fabrication job instead of blacksmithing..i dont think you can ever "retire" from blacksmithing you just slow down and teach younger people to do it till your gone.. it is more a calling than a career or a proffesion... as for where to start you make something and sell it! i would start makeing little things and selling them at local art shows or swap meets.. stuff like that..as how much equipment and the cost it is intirely up to you .. ive seen setups that cost almost nothing but that takes a good scroungeing skills . i would get a decent anvil if i was going to only buy one good tool . everything else can be made (so can the anvil but not easily) .there are loads of info on starting out on this websight . good luck!
Yeah, the people I have met have gone this route. They both make sculpture and other trinkets but their bread and butter is railings. I guess this is more of a metal fab shop than a blacksmith shop. They both seem to be doing ok but they've been doing it for 15+ years. Rough estimate of their shop value runes around 15-20k mainly due to the the power hammers. Hard to say how much they make. I would say one of them grosses around 60k a year and the other would be much more than that (100-150k) but he has a crew and a shop to pay for so I can't clearly say how much he's netting.Mulciber
Before I venture into this thread, could you define what you mean by "blacksmithing"
What I would like to do and call blacksmithing would be mostly forged work with some minor fabrication mainly due to the fact that the old world methods of joinery are so labor intensive and harder to sell due to cost. I don't want to be making railings for a living unless they're commisioned and have a strong taste of custom forged elements. Furniture, sculpture, wall art and other functional/artistic pieces would be my focus with the occasional rail if the customer was looking for something fancy. I haven't researched the viability of craft shows yet but I am not opposed to heading that direction.
As a profession I would consider teaching basic lessons just because there's enough interest and it would pay fairly well. There's a guy about an hour from where I am who offers classes for 300$ a weekend. He usually doesn't hold a class unless there's 5-10 people. Has one every month. Could be a nice supplemental income. -
I just made my first pair as well. I found that the flat spot for joining them needed to be much larger than I had expected (or you have to offset the S steeper) to make them open and close right. I was really pleased how easy and well the rivet worked.
If I were you, I would take those two and put holes in em but before joining them I would do my best to mimic their movement. I would bet that you are going to have binding issues the way your flat spot tapers. It's alot easier to adjust them now than to do it later with a file or grinder when they're joined.
Good job and let us know how they work! -
Who here is a smith by profession?
Do you end up doing more fabrication or artistic expression?
How do you go about getting business in the beginning?
How much money did you have set aside/invested in your shop when you started.
What sort of income can blacksmithing bring?
What sort of hours are you working?
Any chance at retirement as a smith? I imagine it's like football in the sense that it's hard on the body. -
Been thinking of using a couple of pipe wrenches as stock for a project. They're plentiful at the flea market. Other than looking at the wrench are there any other ways to determine whether a wrench is aluminum or whether it's steel? They're painted most the time so color won't be such a great indicator.
I was thinking that a magnet might help since aluminum isn't magnetic.
Anyone know what sort of steel the drop forged versions would be?
Propane torch settings
in Welding/Fab General Discussion
Posted
I'm in the same boat. I don't have a clue what to set the psi to. I just adjusted it so that I can turn the valve on the torch and it gives me a nice flame that isn't lifting off when I light the propane side and adjusted the oxygen down to where I can turn the knob maybe 1/8-1/4 turn for use with a rosebud. When the oxygen was too high it would *pop* as soon as I cracked the oxygen valve. When the propane was too high I couldn't get the flame to sit on the torch. It would float about an inch out.
It's not scientific but it gets the job done. It ended up being much higher than you would want to run acetelyne at but lower than I thought it would be originally. That means somewhere between 15-30 psi. I'm running a pretty big rosebud so my adjustments are probably higher than what you would with a smaller torch.