johnnie

I have recently installed a 50kg Beaudrys Peerless hammer.

 

She is sat on aprox 1m3 of concrete. 2" high density foam walling the new concrete from the existing.

 

Lots of steel and straight on the mud below. The hammer was then sat on 3/4" exterior ply and bolted to the new pad using 20mm rag bolts.

 

My forge in in a 19th century barn with the same era barn joined on to it (our living room).

 

Bearing in mind all the surounding walls are built with stone and mud there is very little or no vibration anywhere other than the new pad. 

 

It sounds to me that the cork and rubber is sat on bedrock. I can't see why its vibrating the house so much.

Sorry for bouncing between metric and imperial.....

Hi guys,

Can anyone shead some light on connecting the connectors like the ones below?

I purcased a new wider belt for my hammer and wondered about the connection plates.

Its the old loop and bar type and I am having a nightmare as you can see from the photos.

The fella how supplied me the belt and connectors said just slowly close the loops together in a vise....simple.

Simple is not the case. The staples are copper and very soft, the loops are at the wrong angle for the vise and the staples need to puncture the 6mm belt and pass through the other side of the loops.

They come on a paper guide/ support which fell apart in no time.

As you can see I need to buy another strip. Something's are made to wind you up I guess.

Any suggestions would be very appreciated.

I have recently installed a 50kg Beaudrys Peerless hammer.

She is sat on aprox 1m3 of concrete. 2" high density foam walling the new concrete from the existing.

Lots of steel and straight on the mud below. The hammer was then sat on 3/4" exterior ply and bolted to the new pad using 20mm rag bolts.

My forge in in a 19th century barn with the same era barn joined on to it (our living room).

Bearing in mind all the surounding walls are built with stone and mud there is very little or no vibration anywhere other than the new pad. 

It sounds to me that the cork and rubber is sat on bedrock. I can't see why its vibrating the house so much.

I would like the impossible for christmas........MORE TIME.

Finding it hard to get in the forge with work and renovation commitments at present so I'd like a few more hours in the day!

BRILLIANT!!! He made the wife and I laugh this morning. Well done, he looks fab.

I recently cut up a small 200 ltr tank and must admit it wasn't a pleasant experience.

First off I opened the valve and drained off any vapor, then fxed an airline to my compressor and blew it out for a while.

Then filled with soapy water and drained.

After cutting with bum cheeks firmly clenched I must admit I was disappointed with the results. The inside was in a horrible state, it seemed heavily corroded and kinda thick with a stinking tar deposit.

Residue from the gas I guess.

Not a nice experience and not worth the bother especially for a tank the size your talking about.

Hope this helps you make up your mind!! Good luck with whatever you decide.

I was (still am) in the throws of renovating our farm house and ordered a catalogue from a company that forge lights, curtain poles and fire companion sets etc.

I was looking through and came across a set of Rams head fire tools and said to my wife thats what I wanted for Christmas. She asked how much and told her the set was £450.

She promptly told me to p#ss off and I could make it myself for that.

Thousands of pounds later my forge is complete and I love every minute spent in there.

If you read this hunny, thanks for your idea ( the companion set would have been A LOT cheaper!!!!)

From the photo it looks like a wider belt will fit. It seems to me a full width belt would be best. I use leather on my Bradley, works great.

I also think you should put full width centered matching dies on it.

Do you have away to drill and tap for a bolt on dovetail?

Andrew yor right about the belt and hope to get a new one this weekend. 

Also a full widthdie shouldn't be a problem as I have the fork tines to use. I am guessing forging on a full width would be a lot easier for me as I calss myself as a beginner on the hammer.

I do have a large pillar drill so tapping and bolting is certainty an option just need to source a tap and I am away.

Thanks for you ideas!

Go on Frosty!! No less than four......love it!!

Sorry Lamey, got Frosty in my head........scary!!!

Just for Frosty!!

Pictures Johnnie PICTURES! We want to see your newly resurrected beauty.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

Well done Jas, thats a good idea. 

Been worried about making the top dies because of the dove tail braking of during use and causing me an accident.

But that said your idea kinda gives me piece of mind.

Thanks buddy.

Greetings again John,

 

After looking at your posted pictures I see that the first on has a drawing die that is not centered...   It seems you changed the lower die to a combo die and left the top drawing die in place...  Did you get a matched pair of dies?  They appear to be too small for the receiver ...    Also I would not add any anti slip to your belt..   The control of your hammer depends on slippage of the belt...   I hope this helps

 

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

Hello again Jim.

The combo die you have seen is one I made. I just slapped it on the hammer for the photo. The drawing top die is all the hammer came with along with the a flat 5"x3" bottom die, which do seem to line up together and work well.

Because of the depth of the top die (from reciver to stiking face) I feel dubious if I should make another.

I can only weld the dove tail using mild mig wire. I have done this on the new bottom die which I will check for cracking but am a tad concerned of a serious accident if the top die breaks free during use and whilst I am not watching it.

What do you think?? Thanks for your help/coments and thoughts so far!

John, 

 

Do the Peerless have a factory brake on the big pulley like the Beaudry Champions do?  If so play with the tightness of the break.

 

If it's just a slack belt/idler pulley combo try changing the tension on the belt when loose and perhaps dress the belt with a grippy substance, there are commercial belt dressings available here in the USA but I've heard that a few drops of honey on a flat belt will do the same thing.  Do you have the motor spinning the belt in the right direction? Check out post #44 and #45 in this thread '?do=embed' frameborder='0' data-embedContent>>

 

Make sure the slides and shafts are absolutely DRIPPING with lube, oil, ATF, etc.  

 

I've never run a Beaudry with a factory clutch, but the Little Giants with clutches that I've owned liked to have a few drops of oil on the wood clutch friction surfaces.  

Hi Jud, yes there is a belt brake on the big pulley and that could well be the problem, one I haven't thought of. 

The canvas belt does have some sort of rubber coating on it that kind of sits within the canvas (does that make any sense?).

Thanks for your ideas, I will have a good look at the brake operation today..........thanks again.

Fe-Wood may I firstly thank you for yor time to answer my problem with such an in depth answer.

I feel a tad dubious about using the hammer on cold steel. 

The belt seems to grab and propels the ram at full clout when least expected. Eg, foot pushes pedle, more, more, more........bang its off at full pelt and its only then you have a chance to raise your foot and minimise the blow and speed of the blows.

Being made almost one hundred years ago I am not sure if it's me or the old girl.

After the initial"rush" control is easy to maintain, personally I think she takes a lot to get going but when she is its plain sailing.

I will try some steel at maybe just red hot and go from there.

Again thank you for you time and advise,

John.

50 Little Giant, 75 Fairbanks, 150 Fairbanks, and a #2 (50) Beaudry to be added soon.

Go on Frosty!! No less than four......love it!!

Yes you guessed it, mild steel dovetail and mild steel mig wire. I had wondered how it would wear.

Thank you for the advice.

I could heat in the gas as I have a digi thermometer.

Not over worried, just pleased that the tines are great for tooling (happy face)!!!!

Thank you all for your time and advice, this is my first big hammer and the fault is more than likely me. @  Jim I shall try what you suggested and return the conclusion.

Thanks again guys!

Some things to check-

 

Are your dies exactly the same shape?  Check with a template.

Are they perfectly aligned?  Check with a straight edge.

Is the tup slightly loose in the guides? Grab it and see if you can wiggle it at all.

 

And the most likely, are you feeding the stock into the hammer perfectly horizontally? If you are a little high or low the dies will curve your stock when hot and jar your arms up and down when it's cold.  Have someone watch you (from a safe distance) with their eyes at die level.

All seems to be good Jud, I think it maybe me. Its my first proper hammer so practice practice practice I guess. 

Thanks for the advice.

I would have to think that the dies are not hitting square.  The solution to that depends on what type power hammer you have.  Since the guides for head alignment are different for different styles of hammers.  I think more info will be required to answer you question.

Hi the hammer is a 1915 Beaudry's Peerless. Enough said??? Lol

It worked, oh the wonders of modern technology!

No harm in trying again........fingers crossed!

I have recently got my power hammer running and am having a on going problem forging.

Every time I do a taper the piece seems to be twisting. 

I have checked the dies and they both seem to be true to level but each time the hammer hits the steel I can feel the steel twisting in my hands or tongs.

I know to correct this is to hit the highest point and square things out but where am I going wrong in the first place????

I agree but thanks Mac, think I am in love!

Is it me or are you having problems seeing the photos????

Hi guys, as I've said in an earlier post, I was given some huge forklift tines. Too heavy to lift between to blokes. 
I decides now my power hammer is finally up and running I would cut the tines and have a go at making a new die for the hammer.
Not sure if I was wasting my time not knowing what steel I was working with and if it would be hard enough for 50kg power hammer dies.
It took half an hour to cut a piece out of the fork and almost 2composite cutting disks. Couple of hours more of carefully cutting and grinding and it looked the part. 
Now for the test. 
I heated up  a large piece of spring leaf 6" x1" and tapered it down. Not a mark on the surface. Tried a taper out of 1" square bar and still not a dimple on the surface.
After another couple of hours forging still nothing!!!
I think I've just saved myself best part of 600 quid and I still have the rest of the first fork and a second one.
Any idea's on what to make next and what tooling they would be good for?