rfdecarter

Is it possible to weld (using oxy-acetylene) a C clamp to a piece of mild steel plate? Or, would brazing be better? I want to fix the top of the C to the plate to make a moveable base for a tool I'm putting together.

Simply cut squares of cotton cloth and put them in a closed container with an exhaust hole (small) punched in it. Toss it in a fire...when flame and smoke from the exhaust hole remove from fire and plug hole with a toothpick.... let cool and you have char cloth some candy tins have nice fitting lids and make good char tins

They're going to be hard to find. Get Heath's book How to Make a Blacksmith's Bellows. I believe it is available from Centaur Forge. I lucked into finding one from a guy selling out. He hadn't used it in years and either squirrels or mice had gotten to it. I'm having to rebuild the ribs and recover it, but still easier than starting from scratch.

I've got a diamondback two burner as well. I've had it for about 2 years now and really enjoy how much more work I can get done over using my coal forge. In fact, just got rid of my coal forge and all my coal at a yard sale last week. One thing you can think about adding is an idle circuit to your gas line. It allows you to reduce gas flow to the forge when you want to. I believe there are photos in the gallery here, but it is a simple design. If you can't find it here I can post some photos.

I recently purchased a 1450 degree Tempilstik marker for use in indicating critical temperature for some 1095 steel I have been using to make fire steels. Finally had a chance to use it yesterday and was rather dissapointed. First, it really didn't make much of mark on the steel (nothing like regular chalk or soapstone) and second, in my gas forge it was very difficult to observe it changing to indicate that its temperature had been attained. I went back to the old way and used a magnet. Any suggestions on how to use this better? I am doing something wrong? Thanks.

I've had a Diamondback 2 burner metal artist forge for a couple of years now. Runs very well and the size is well suited to the work that I tend to do. I added an idle circuit that allows me to cut back on the gas. It's simply a bypass made from brass fittings (I believe I saw a photo of one here in the gallery). The only thing I wish it had was the ability to run only 1 burner if desired. If I really wanted that I could probably modify the forge but it would be nice if it came with that feature. Anything else you might want to know about the Diamondback just ask.

So, do you build some sort of rack for your truck to secure the tanks?

What is the best way to go about it? I've read all sort of conflicting info on the web...can't tranport acetylene tanks on their sides.....yes you can transport acetylene tanks on their side.... So, how do all of you go about it? I've got a truck, is there some easy way to secure the tanks to the side of the truck bed? Thanks again.

Thanks for all of the comments. I'll be getting a Victor outfit.

Looking to buy an oxyacetylene welding outfit. Plan on using it for some basic welding as in making jigs and such for smithing work and, at times, providing some localized heat. Harris? Victor? Others? Thanks

Something very similar is described in Goddard's $50 Knife Shop

I'll most likely go with maple or walnut. That's what I've seen on originals that were rehandled on this continent.

Thansk for all of the replies. Was looking for boxwood to handle some replicas I'm in the process of making. Given the difficulty in acquiring the size I need (and the expense) I'll just use a more easily obtainable wood. Existing examples and those found in digs have often been rehandled with woods from this continent.

As is often the case with Google (which I had already tried), most of the sites do not actually have boxwood and those that do carry a wood referred to as boxwood that isn't rather it is a replacement. P.S. I always thought the Boy Scout thing was called the Pinewood Derby.

Looking for an online source for boxwood. Want to use it for knife handles. I've checked a few knifemaking suppliers and haven't come across any that carry boxwood. I've come across a couple of UK sites but I figure shipping would be prohibitive. Thanks for any help.

Are the portable kits worth considering? Or are the tanks too small?