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I Forge Iron

dimag

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Posts posted by dimag

  1. Prior to injuring my hand,I never wore a glove on my hammer hand and only occasionally on other hand.One of the factors that created the accident was my glove getting caught in the screen on the top of a plow truck.
    Now I use a glove of the winter variety on my hammer hand as a cushion, it extends the time that I can swing a hammer.Still only occasionally on my left hand,never with tongs.

  2. 6010 and 6011 have worked for me.I have had less success with 70XX rod.Clean metal is important and post weld,work the metal hot,near forge welding temp.The last part is important,as I found out.I was told that by both Bill Epps and Jock Dempsey.Hey why would I listen to those 2 guys?:).Turns out it cracks and even breaks if ya work it too cold.
    As for the "tradition".I have noticed that blacksmiths tend to be forward thinking people,problem solvers.My guess is if the smiths of old could have replaced a mule powered board drop for an electric driven one,they would have.If they had access to propane they would have used it.An arc welder is just another tool [mmm tools,I love tools].Whatever it takes to get the job done.

  3. Good evening to all.my name is Pascal,I am 49 yrs old I live in the south west of France where it is very hot,yet I am a devotee of forging[ie blacksmithing].A boilermaker by profession,I work with carbon steel,stainless aluminium and copper.My favorite passtime after forging is archery.I hope we will be able to communicate despite[mal gres?] the difficulties I have with my English.
    Good fires and good forging to all.
    Those internet translators are terrible.I do not speak French very well but I read it slightly better than speak it.Mal gres is a term I am not familiar with I just guessed at it's meaning.

  4. I have one that is a square made out of 3/8sq.that will fit over the heel of my anvil.It has a spring attached to the bottom bar and the other end of the spring is attached to my anvil stand.It has a small handle welded to the top bar.I have it set so the hold down sits a couple of inches ahead of the hardy hole,that way you can work both sides of the hold down and still use your hardy hole.
    Pull it off of the heel and it flops down out of the way.

  5. No one should ever be on the "wrong side" of a log.If a log is moving in your direction,no matter what is making it move or how slowly it is moving,you are on the wrong side.
    A lesson learned as a young hotshot,skidding with horses.I also learned to appreciate the value of a horse that works on voice commands.Kinda got swept off my feet and here I had thought I was a better dancer than that!:)

  6. A bigger tank is the solution,100# at least to run a forge.The frosting is caused by a compressed gas[any compressed gas] flowing thru a restriction i.e. orifice ,valve etc.When you cut the pressure the temp of the gas drops.The ambient temp does affect the flow but really only in pretty cold conditions or if the volume in the tank is low.The trouble with a warm water bath is that it won't be warm for long.A small oil pan heater might help.The cost would probably make a bigger tank a more viable option.You could get another small tank and just change them out,kind of a pain tho.

  7. I use 7014,mostly,6011 also.They make a 7018 for AC,I have tried it and it is OK.It doesn't hurt to have an oven for welding rod in general[my shop ain't heated].A piece of 6" pipe long enough to hold the rod with a door on one end and a plate with a lite fixture on the other and a 40 watt bulb.You can build it with what ever rod you decide to use.:)

  8. Ah yes...frozen slack tubs.I have one of those,frozen solid.I've had one of those every winter. I take a small bucket of water from my house[providing it ain't froze too] to the shop to use as quench. I dump it when I'm done...usually.I have on occasion, had 2 frozen slack tubs.:)Life in northern Canada.However not only do we walk on water,heck we drive trucks and Cats and all kinds of stuff on it.Now..if I could just change this water into wine...ah ha ice wine!

  9. Ezra;
    The Cavalry is an alright anvil.If it is close and affordable go ahead and buy it.It is not the ideal blacksmith's anvil but is much more useable than a RR rail or some cheap cast doorstop.
    If I remember correctly the hardy hole is 3/4".I made up a spacer out of heavy wall tubing[can't remember what size..old age:)]level to the face.I made my fullers long enough so that the hammering took place in the centre of the face.Slightly inconvenient,but not insurmountable.
    I do some horseshoe items[hoofpicks etc]and found it to be good for those.There is a large pritchel hole about where a hardy hole would be towards the heel.It is used for turning heels and I found it good for bending things.The horn comes to a fairly fine point which is also handy.Basically you learn to use what you have.
    They are very portable and it sounds like ,for you,that is a consideration.
    In my opinion[for what it is worth] they are a quality anvil and although specific to farriery not unuseable for smithing.

  10. I had one for a couple of years when I first started.They are an excellent farriers anvil.For blacksmithing it is a little springy,but useable.The hardy hole is in the step,good for farriers but kind of a pain if you want to use a spring fuller or other hardy hole mounted tools.You'll notice the "springy"if you use a sledge more than with a hand hammer.
    If 1/2 is all you are gonna do and the price is right go ahead and buy it.Keep it in good condition and sell it to a farrier if you decide to upgrade,they hold their value pretty well.
    dimag

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