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Posts posted by Francis Trez Cole
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Drako11 they have 12V 115V & 230V. I use a 115V it is great you can see how well it works in a video on my web sight Welcome to nokomis Forge - Hand-Crafted My Custom Ironwrok My forge is 11"x11"x 4" welded plate the tube is 4"x4" with a built in damper. It will get away from you if you run it full out.
Dragon lair I had that problem with my gas forge so I turned it around with the vents facing away from the forge. works fine now -
Key Keeper it is granger #2C647 catalog 398 page 3052 I think it was around $65.00
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Dayton makes a blower number 99080464 the sell it a grainger and they work real well have used the same one for 10 years. lots of cfm's you will need a damper in line
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Mitch hydration hydration and wall that open up really helps create shade. You will have to come down and check out my shop you can see it in my video at www.nokomisforge.com
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I have done scrimshaw in th past the most important thing is to ware a resperator
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Same here but some of the U-Pull it places have scrap that you can buy.
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Thanks Frank for your discription.
I take my regular fire place the metal to be welded on top pour more green coal on top of the metal. and wet. bring up to heat slowly pull out metal wire brush flux with borax and slide back into hole. Dome is formed. Heat metal to bright yellow remove sling excess flux toward floor and hit lightly and evenly make sure all areas are welded. -
dennisG nice welding.
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I use a grate in the bottom of my forges found I did not need it either the rivit forge that a lot of smiths use dont have clinter breaters.
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cloud, welcome there other free books at metal web news under blacksmithing I did a video for beginners it is on my web sight Welcome to nokomis Forge - Hand-Crafted Custom Ironwrok
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Myself I used a speed control in the past now I let the motor run and use a damper the avantage I have found when I forge weld I can use short blasts of air to bring the heat up fastwith out waiting for the motor to wind up. I had my eletronic control fail in the middle of a demo. thank goodness for a multy tool. rewired and back at it in 5 min.
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there is a free book on 3 phase converter on METAL WEB NEWS
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There are plenty of videos out there I use 1/4"x3/4" mild steel I did a video blacksmithing 101 on my wed site Welcome to nokomis Forge - Hand-Crafted Custom Ironwrok there are other referance on the video
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home depot or lowes
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it is my understanding that in the point of the copper braclet is not absorbed the studys were done by Tessler and it is the C shape that causes a electical field like a magnet. I an sure that iron will work but copper is a better conductor. What was explained to me was you should ware one around each wrist, ankle, and heck. to aline your own field. I have a firend who has done research there is a mand who cured cancer in the 1930 with radio waves. I will ask him about iron
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Dave is a great guy just write him through his wed site he will answer all your questions
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i made a harder tool years ago and it still works for cutting hot steel today Cheep and always laying around
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here in fl it is avable $35.00 FOR A 100# BAG.
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some of it will melt while you are working and glom to spent coal that is a clinker.
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Pieh tools has a swedge with a spoon imprint it is not that expancive.
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My last forge I used 4"X4" square tube with a dayton blower. works great for a grate I used 5/8" rebar. it gets real hot good thing I have a good damper.
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I had one build a nest in my gas forge poor desision on there part
wrought iron finish
in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
Posted · Edited by Francis Cole
I am in florida where rust from salt is very distrutive. What I do is treat the metal with aosforic acid. prime and paint it will hold up for about 5 years. then you will have to refinish it. some of the restoration work I have done was matching work form the 1920's the home owner repaints it every year. the new and the old look the same with no rust. work clean and get a good seal.
the other choice is to get wrought Iron from old demolition and re work it.