peacock

That would be pretty high in Missouri. Can by 50# at a time for under $20.

Today I went and picked up a Depew No. 1. I even got a copy of the factory instruction sheet. blows per min. 475 to 550 now that's fast. Should be a fun hammer. Pics later if I can get them to load.

Kevin, I think the part that he needs is the one that the shell you see in Jim's pic goes over.

Just got home from a great time nice to see old friends and make some new ones. We had 3 LG's on hammer row. My surprise was the green 25# ran by a 19944 modl IHC LB gas engine. I hope I can get the pics on.

Roger no one will ever mistake you for me or vise-a-reversa. Take that however you want, I don't come to your jurisdiction.
Thomas, no pink hammers but they are not the same old green or gray. Are you coming?

For you guy and gals that don't know MOblacksmith0530 and I just look for a tall guy & a wide guy hanging around some freshly painted power hammers.

I made 1 for my 40 cushioned helve from steel. Mine only had 2 bolts 1 in the slot one on a clamp on outer rim. I might be able to make what you need, or maybe repair the one you have.

I've got a surprise I'm bringing with me. It's not somrthing to eat . Something I've been wanting to do for years.

surpluscenter.com around $300

I'll be there with 2 or 3 power hammers, some hand forged Arm & Bammer soap to sell, and some stuff ot make some killer baked beans. MOblacksmith0530 and I decided we want to cook and socialize a little more this year, maybe a little midnite madness. Might be 4 ph's in one small spot. Don't miss the action.

I have people that I rebuild hammers for call with this problem alot. Most of the time I fix it buy setting the die opening to the correct clearence. Many home built hammer over look this design feature. It is very nessary on mechinical hammers

A 2 hp single phase 220 volt will be fine. The 3 phase amp is most likely 5.2 not 52. 1725 or 1750 rpm is what you want. You may have to get a new pulley as the shaft size may be different on the new motor.

Can't be answered with the facts you have given us(none). The tag that told the voltage will have the ph also.

With drawing dies 1 1/2 wide I can work 1 1/2 stock but that is about the upper limit. The hammer must be in excellent shape if you are going to work it that hard. Hank welded alot of billets on his 25 # LG . Narrow dies and 375 blows a minute will move iron pretty quick if it's hot.

I started to think I might be a blacksmith when I could make the second third and forth, parts match the first. Then I tried to make a mirror image of the first piece and lost my status for a while. Now some days I may be the next not sure. I really think when you can make the tools you need that you don't have for a job, and then you make tools for the other craftsmen, Stone cutter, woodworker, butchers, bakers, candlestick makers, well you get the idea. When you can turn some ones idea into what they wanted and you are both pleased with the item you are starting to get there. I don't call myself a blacksmith, but I do claim to do blacksmith work. I'll let others decide what they want to call me.

I get between 5 & 6 k for a newly rebuilt 50# LG. with 1 set new dies and a brake, Complete ready to plug in and run.

It's really a matter of the oil taking the path of least resistance. If one cyl. gets harder to push the pressure on that cyl will try to rise and the flow will decrease, if they are plumbed with equal size and length plumbing the cyl with less load will now recieve greater flow and move ahead. Now if the load(part to be pressed) is off center the cyl. on that side will load up first causing the other cyl to move faster possibly creating a bad situation. If the guides are long enough and the frame is strong enough it may just stall out, on the other hand it may send a chunk of red hot steel flying at an unknown direction. Consider the flow divider.

surplus center cat#285 page 31 upper right corner delta rotary divider

I thought he was talking about opening me. ouch!!!!!!!

Make a wooden form for your lathe and spin it. It's the heating up that softens it you don't need the quench but it will speed up the process. A little vinegar in the quench will help the scale come off. Can you make a tenon on the spike and rivet it?

What I like most is the fact that you made your tongs. Next pair put the twist in the part between the pivot and where your hands are, You can have your twist and be kind to your hands too. Keep in mind to keep your tongs light they only need to be stronger than you are. Thinner reins make for more spring = less shock to your hand, not as tired at the end of the day and less long term damage to your body.

A note on twist. I prefer my twist to be short on something the size of your tongs a well placed tight twist an inch long can often times be more pleasing to the eye than the whole then twisted. By tight twist I mean maybe the same number of turns in a much shorter section. take a 24 inch piece of 3/8 and make yourself a sample bar. In each 4 inch section make a different number of turns. that way you can see what you like best.

Nitrogen is added it small amounts to argon ( usually less than 5%) to help achieve collor match when TIG welding some types of SS. I have never heard of using it as the only shielding gas for TIG. We always back gas with the same gas as we were using thru the torch.
Nitrogen is great for purging as it is very dry, thus you are getting rid of all the H2O. The same for tires fill em with high humidity air they heat up the water turns to steam the pressure goes up.

My Bradley hammers also have hollow anvils. The sow blocks on the new style Little Giant hammers are also hollow. I don't think the void is a problem. My thought is the loose filler is the porblem. If you can make it one piece and keep it one piece I think it will be fine. I know concrete in a pipe will break up over time, I have done that one already. If I were to try this I would weld a plate on the end of a pipe fill it with the iron chips, fit a heavy plate to the inside of the pipe put it in my 60 ton press squeeze it as hard as I could and weld the plate to the ID of the pipe. Make sure to leave a vent, a pipe threaded hole to be plugged with a fitting woud be the correct way. The fitting would give you a place to add water so it could rust to a soild mass without the problem of salt eatting it up.

Little Giant dovetails are 10 degrees.
The key angle is 1/8 in 12 = an angle of 35 min 47 sec or slightly over 1/2 degree

I think the leather was made off the hammer to a certain size, Then the spring was compressed to install the bolts. The strap needs to be somewhat loose to give the whip to the blow. As I said before just not so loose it hits the pitman clamp. I would run the hammer as it is now and see how it works. You may find it is good to go.

It looks pretty good to me. The top has a little sag but the bottom run is pretty striaght. If the strap is too loose the top of the ram will hit the bolts that clamp the spring to the pitman. If you are not sure if it is hitting put some tape on th top of the ram, run it hard and look for marks in the tape. If you need to snug it up some you will need to pull the ends of the spring together with a clamp while you re-wrap the leather. You can tighten it up some buy making thick walled bushings to put over the bolts that the strap wraps around, these could even be made of good wood. You will also need to use the clamp on the spring to install the bushings. Looks good, be glad when you report al is well.