Astro_Al

Thanks guys. David - what is the advantage of tacking with the Mig? Its 400 amps, so I'd better not turn it up too far! My alternative method was to either mig it or tig it with maybe 309 or 312 stainless? I hear that can work. Any thoughts? The arc rods I was considering using are for cast iron (high nickel content). Cheers, Al.

Hi folks, the final head scratcher (I hope) in putting together my forge is that the exhaust cowling is cracked in several places. Any tips on the best way to fix it? I was planning on drilling the end of the cracks (if I can find them!!!), then grinding out the cracks, doing a little preheat with the propane torch and arc welding it together with some nickel / iron rods, followed by a little peening from an air needler, and a slow cool down (not sure how yet!). Does that sound about right to you? Anyone know how I can get it onto my work bench without it breaking under its own weight? Cheers, Al.

Hi guys, thanks very much for all your thoughts on this. Mark - regarding the height of the tue iron, please see the pics. Yes, there is an odd step up at the back of the forge. I think the centre of the air pipe will be about 3" below the top surface of the sides of the forge. Does that look / sound about right? Where the forge sides / front / legs bolt together there are some gaps, would it be normal to seal these up with fire cement, or does it make no difference? Nett - yes its water cooled, I'm just making a 'bosh' (tank) for it now. Beaverdam - thanks, those links are great, there is a forge exactly like mine! Thanks guys. I also need to fix up the cracked extraction hood/cowl/roof thing. I'll start a separate thread on how to do that! Cheers, Al.

Hmm, I don't think its cracked (unless you mean just the corner), its a dead straight line up the middle. I think the bottom was in two plates so it can be put in. I will fix up the triangular hole as you suggest. I'm still confused about the vertical separation between the plates. Gonna need more than clay to fill that! So fire clay to seal any gaps is what people use? Regarding what goes in - do I literally build my fire on the base plate - I don't need any fire bricks or lining or anything, right? Sorry, all the forges I have used have been set up by someone else previously, so I've never seen how to do it. Cheers, Al.

Hi, thanks, sadly it was being used as decoration in someone's house. I don't know anyone who has one. Thanks, Al.

Yes. I'm just remaking the rear panel as its pretty ragged. The tue iron sticks through a hole in that from the back. Here you go - the back panel, old and new (I'm reusing the breast plate you can see bolted to the old panel). Cheers, Al.

Hi guys, I'm trying to get this cast iron Alldays forge going. The plates in the bottom of the forge look original - about 1/2" thick and seem to be made of the same stuff as the forge, but the fit is horrendous! There seems to be a triangular section of plate missing, but the plates that are present hardly fit together at all. (For scale, the tape measure is set at 12"). The way I see it, all the coal will fall out the bottom. This can't be right? The really odd thing is that there is vertical separation between the two main plates - one is higher than the other (at one end only!) - seems odd? Would it normally have some kind of lining, or should I expect to be able to pour in the coal and build a fire right there on the iron / steel plates? What should I do about the small plate in the left rear corner? Shall I just weld in some more plate to close that triangular gap (weld it to the other plate, not the forge base/frame!)? Should I just fabricate a whole new bottom? If so, whats the minimum thickness steel I could get away with? If you think this is bad, wait until you see the cracked roof cowling... Many thanks for any help! Cheers, Al. P.S. - sorry, I also meant to ask if the plates would normally be sealed with some kind of fire cement or something around their edges? Thanks.

Thanks Bruce, message sent. Al.

Guys thanks a lot, again... That is great news that I can fabricate one. I will try to take bruce up on his offer as I have a million things to make anyway, and if that fails or seems uneconomic I'll get to making one. Mark, I will send you an email, thanks. I'll have a whole lot more questions about setting this thing up soon... Cheers, Al.

Hi Matt, thanks thats excellent news - should save me about 400 quid. Any idea about seals though? Just use some gasket paper, or hylomar sealant or something? Many thanks again, that link is an interesting read. Al.

Hi folks, I've been lurking for a while but this is my first post. Great forum. I have acquired an old Aldays cast iron forge but it needs a new tuyere/tue iron and bosh (I'll make the bosh, but the tuyere is a little harder!). Glendale forge are out of them for a while, nd the only other source I know of is Vaughans. Does anyone know another source before I have to pay their prices? Also, for the seals am I being stupid in thinking 50 quid for 2 simple circular paper(?) seals is a bit steep? What do you all use to seal the bosh to the tue iron? Thanks for your help, Al.