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Posts posted by Jim Coke
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Greetings ,I never seen a fire basket that did'nt rust... I can assume you want it to look good for a while.... If you heat it up with a weed burner and put drain oil on it it will form a black carbon look... Its stinky and will fire flash at about 900 Be carfull.. Do that a few times and it will blacken .. ANNNND it will still rust after a while..
Good luck
Jim
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Greetings again,
You use the flat pien to shape flip the hammer to the flat side and remove the ridges.... easy try it.... Flip the stock over and hammer all the ridges sazamm will be gone....
Good luck
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Greetings ML,
Looks to me like it would serve another function.... The new puppy cage.....
I'm retired now but when I had my downstate shop I had a lady bring me a Porshe boxer fender and she wanted me to make a 5ft tall flower pot with the flowers growing out of the headlight.... She said she would tell me what it was for when i finished....
Seems her husband without her knowledge bought the Porsche and as he left the dealership door he crashed it... It now sits outside thier breakfast room so that every morning he has to look at it...
We do what we have to to keep the dollars flowing... Carry on JIm
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Greetings again,
You'l have fun with your new hammer .. OXYMORON it's not little and it's not big butttt it sure works well... A LG 25 is the only hammer Francis ever had.. Can't see does it have a brake.... If not look into it...
Jim
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Wow ... Better add some extra peanuts and bubble wrap when they ship that one .... Its a tired trenton...aka dish... I wonder who would bid on that...
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Congrats Dave,
A true example of superior craftsmanship.... You will do well
JIm
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Greetings again,
Just 4 3/16x2 z bracets will fit on your anvil on the shelf drill 5/16 holes for lag bolts works fine...
Good luck
Jim
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Fantastic detail... Are you sure ya didn't cast it.... THAT TAKES PLANNING I'M IMPRESSED...
Glad you have your shop up and running
Jim
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Greetings Ryan,
You can also use a flat pien hammer on the face of the anvil. About 1/4 in flat works fine... SQUISH
Good luck
Jim
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Greetings Danguite,
Looks just like my first attempt ( 40 years ago ) I suggest you look at some of the fine videos on this websight and get some ideas.... Also I would make 4 "Z" brackets to hold down you PW anvil... Look up anvil hold downs...
Keep a nockin
Jim
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Greetings Loren,
What size is the hardi hole..? I have many Trentons and it looks to me like a 1930 ish manufacture... I have a 300# with the same dementions..
as Sask said the serial number is on the base along with the weight.... Does the bottom side have a dish? Some times there be a larger number on the foot.. 25
I hope this helps
JIm
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Neet Idea,,
I'v been doing the same on several anvil tools for 15 years.... I will pass on some info.... You can use 1/4 x1 stock formed in a " U " and it's a lot easier.. Keep in mind to form all of them the same distance from the face.. ( so that you can use the same wedge an all tools...)
Glad to see others have a thinking cap on and are willing to share...
Hammer on Jim
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Neet.... If they mate do you get an alleganvil ? Remember to take it off or you will texture EVERYTHING
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1st 137# trenton 2nd 300# trenton 3rd 176# trenton 4th 100# arm and hammer 5th 100# hay budden got more than one shop
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Greetings Welder,
Looks like a fine job... You should be proud... Give some thought to the propane plumming if you put a burner on the other side.. My personal feeling is that two burners with that design would be fine.
Good luck Jim
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Greetings again,
Forgot to mention ... Lance Olsen has a open forge on Tues. eve Lots of good folks.... Parma Mich not to far from you
Welcome again..
Jim
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Greetings,
Its got a bit of swayback to it.. I've worked on alot worse.. It would be of value just for the horns.. A swayback is handy for straighting.
Jim
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Greetings,
Sounds like a small opener... You can put a 2in pipe in your forge ...thick wall... heat it up cherry ... slide in your part.... wait for color....quench. and finish...I suggest if you finish with spray enamal or lacquer.. only put a dusting on first AKA tack coat...wait to dry...
Good luck
Jim
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Greetings Ken,
I'm a long time member of the Michigan Blacksmiths group.. We have alot of good people who are more than willing as I to help you learn..If you log on to michiganblacksmiths.org you will find some great events that you sould take advantage of.. March a meeting at Larry Carrigans near Jackson and a May hammer in at Lance Olsens .. Both are great and are close to you... Welcome and I wish you well
Jim
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Greetings Dave,
I too have a Mankel forge My friend Tim Carr in now making them He bought out Ken Mankel and is doing a great job... He is on the internet and has some great information.... Stand back , fire her up and let the fun begin Tim is a great guy and is very helpfull.
Jim
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Greetings again, 11
Just another thought.... I have my own line shaft shop and have lots of pulleys.. wood and cast.... I would consider using a large wood or cast pulley to set on the floor first and than put put your gear on that.... That would spread the weight per square inch over a large surface... I sure would not want to be the maid that has to dust under that puppy.... Another thought If you cant find a large pulley consider a wood base with lots of surface..
Once again Good Luck
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Greetings 11,
I think you better Identity the gear first... Old large gears are normally cast steel.. They cast them with for the wear factor and machineability... Plus they must be strong at the tooth contact... It sounds like a risky project to me... If I had to weld on a gear like that I would preheat the whole gear to well above 600 and bring the temp down slow... If you crack it will you be able to find another... I doubt it.. A 300 pound table top is over the top... Nickel welding is like glue. Only on the surface.... Old cast gears are full of grease and carbon..
Good luck on your project
Jim
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Yuck,
A post vise works great to hold the chainsaw for sharpining.. Looks like a full days work...
Good luck
Jim
Needing help on a Mild Steel Finish
in Finishes for Metal
Posted
Greetings,
When you get right down to it fire place doors don't get that hot.. Look in the store and you see them made from brass and glass... SANDBLAST ????
Now that you have Rustolem and other high temp paints are your only soloution.. If you read the can they suggest that it is applied without primer...
I would question the use of regular primer and paint.... You could also gold plate them for grandma...
Good luch with your project...
Jim