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I Forge Iron

Little Forks Forge

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Posts posted by Little Forks Forge

  1. Bleeding is not working at all. I am able to get the ram to move - but it is not locking at all with the valve closed. In other words - I can push the ram back up and it stays up (no air pressure pushing it back down again)... I am forced to take it to a shop for repairs I guess... Thanks.

  2. Thanks Rich - that is an extremely generous offer!

    Alright... In response to other answers here:

    It isn't motorized - it's hand pumped.

    The valve is on the bottom of the reservoir and is just a screw valve with a large handle on it. If you look at the picture - the unpainted cylinder on the right side of the press is where it's located at the bottom.

    There might be air in it - but at the same time, since the valve is at the bottom of the reservoir and the res was full, I'm more doubtful that air could have made it's way down there that quickly. Not that much oil was lost - less than a pint...

    I'm gearing up to take it apart and see if I can locate the ball/one-way valve that's come out... Unless one of you could direct me otherwise.

  3. One of the guys in our shop was using this press to bend some metal, without being trained on it.. :mad: (but, I digress). When he was releasing the valve to home the press cylinder he loosened the valve too far and oil started spilling out - since then the press does not press at all.

    I need some direction in repairing this. My thinking is that the valve screws down onto some kind of one-way valve and that loosening the valve too much unseats the one-way valve - but I'm unsure as to how to repair it, or even if I can do it in house.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    6041.attach

  4. I am getting really intrested in casting metal. Years ago I cast pewter beltbuckels in a RTV mold. Now I would like to cast motifs for wrought iron beds (connecting square and round rod in the motif rather than welding and buffing).
    I have seen pictures of a prosses using steel permanent molds and ?? type of metal in a electric foundry.

    http://www.thewroughtironco.com/images/factory/pouring.jpg

    Is there a metal that is strong enough to make the connections for a bed, but have a low enough melting point to use RTV?

  5. I have straighten a lot of leaf springs some 60mm wide by 6 or 8 mm by useing a BIG hammer 13 pound and a real large Block of hard wool 700mm high 600mm wide--- have some cord / rope to stop the spring from going onto orbit. if you hit it worng or it brakes in 2 ---
    --I then sharpen about 6 inches of the side of the spring steel tool that is 600mm long to make a hammer slasher for cutting cars up ---I hit them with a 4 pound hammer to cut panal steel and the like ---I tip water from a plastic coke Bottle onto the hot part to stop up setting the temper..as i sharpen them with a 7 inch grinder.. I have the gringer in one hand and the water Bottle in the other.... I have a Roveing Vice on one 44 gallon drum and another 44 gall drum to put the grinder on.. I have Holes slashed in the top of the drums , some were for the water to go stops me getting wet--

    --to add ,,Make shore eveyone has a hard hat on ---


    I have a mental picture of this that is way far out!
  6. I'm in the southern part of Quebec which is more north than most. I use an old iron to pre heat my anvil and it works great (I noticed someone else mentioned it as well). At the start of my forging I plug the iron in and in 15-20 min its ready. I bought my iron at the Salvation Army for 2 bucks.

    Oliver

  7. I am exploring different methods of bending metal. I have worked with a Hossfeild alot, but I wonder if there is a homemade version of this type?
    There is a cool posting in "blueprints" for a ring roller, are there other type like this?
    I have seen a bender made from a thick metal plate that has holes drilled on several arcs to recive pins and a leverage bar. Does this sound familler?

    If you can share any other info, pics, or plans it will be greatly received by everyone, I'm sure.

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