Adam C. ToolSmith

Hey guys i was wondering if I could use something like this to make a forging press, 

I'm able to make dies and what not myself but using one of these could be a little easier than using a power hammer,  Im curious as to what i would need in order to make a hammer with one of these say a 5lbs hammer, would i be able to punch hammer eyes with something like this or not. 

What should i be paying for this hammer, 

It does sound Like a Peter Wright does it have steps on the feet of the anvil? '>

Adam Cooper, South Australia, Adelaide

while i appreciate telling me to do nothing. i would like to have an anvil i can use every part of, The anvil has gone soft of those regions anyway as it has been welded before by a previous owner.... I did state i can re harden the anvil for next to nothing at a local steel mill. Ok i cannot get Stoody here in Australia easily and it will cost an absolute fortune. The alternative is the electrode i found. high impact high abrasion resistant. The question im asking for now is tips, any at all. and also is there a better alternative to the electrode i found. http://victortechnologies.asia/IM-Uploads/DocLib_4721_Cobalarc%209e%20Datasheet.pdf

This electrode seems to be the best so far. http://victortechnologies.asia/IM-Uploads/DocLib_4721_Cobalarc%209e%20Datasheet.pdf

Hey Frosty,

Thanks for the reply. What about this welding rod, http://victortechnologies.asia/IM-Uploads/DocLib_4730_Cobalard%20650%20Datasheet.pdf

Hey IFI, 

​ I'm thinking about welding my anvil edges up and doing some general repairs to it. While it is usable I'd love to see this classic brought back to its prime. Mint Condition or refurbished anvils of this size are next to impossible to find in Australia and if anyone has experience what would the value be of the anvil after refurbishment. 

Does anyone know any history in regards to the Peter Wright anvils. When where they made?, How where they made?, Are there any patents to identify this anvil specifically or at least its model.

Now I've chosen a high chromium Manganese Hard facing welding electrode to do the whole job. I only have to weld to steel not to the iron body of the anvil. 

Here is the DATA sheet for the electrode I would like to use: http://victortechnologies.asia/IM-Uploads/DocLib_4720_Cobalarc%20750%20Datasheet.pdf
 

It would be helpful to anyone who has given this a go in the past to please pass along any tips and tricks. If need be then i can have the anvil annealed and re-hardened as a local steel mill. 

The anvil in question is a 155kg Peter Wright i picked up for $250 Australian. 


Pictures of Anvil and proposed areas to be welded up. 

This is the main section I want to weld up. A weld has been done here before by a previous owner. I have to chip off or grind the rest of the welded piece out. Its soft and not usable.  

As you can see here the anvil has see better days. 

Thanks Everyone for any help at all. 
 

would that then mean that a side blast forge is better in that sense 
 
Herb 
Because a side blast forge has no firepot so to speak.

Hey guys/gals, 

I have the housing of a buffalo silent 200 blower, the fan for inside of it and an electric pump motor. though i need to figure out some kind of mounting system, im wondering can i weld cast iron to steel. i would be able to weld a steel bracket to hold the blower then. 

haha here in aus, we are getting anvils on ebay and gumtree selling at minimum of 500$ aus, smallest anvil a 30kg PW, sold last week for a ridiculous 700$ and then anvils are banged up as heck,

 http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/spalding/antiques/blacksmiths-anvil/1018579789

Excellent!, thread is great, im hoping they give it up. honestly its not been used in months. seems like a waste to me :/

worth repairing, im hoping they give up on it and let me have it. as it is they are thinking of not using it al together as they have a 3 cwt hammer and 1cwt hammer

G'day everyone,

My local association has ownership of a small power hammer, not sure what make it is, but i would personally love to restore it. would be nice to know its make and age. 

currently it goes unused simple because its deemed unsafe. requiring a lot of tender love and care. Thanks guys, 

By the way i live in Australia, if that helps with identification.

bringing it back to the top of the thread list,

bump

Hey guys, wondering if anyone who owns a Vulcan heavy duty cast iron fire pot and tuyere could tell me the configuration of the clinker breaker or takes some pictures of it, ATM in just using plate with holes drill, I want to restore this back to its original manufacturing standard, thanks guys

I find with this type of shank more stress is put on the already weak sides of the hardy hole. the blade is awesome though. The cuts are so smooth and clean. easy to use too :)

I've been using only coke for 28 years. That being said.... forget about the rheostat to control the air, use an air gate, the blower will run free air without issues and the pull of the lever will increase or decrease the flow. The tuyere isn't  necessary, I have an air blower,air gate, right angle up to the fire, with a thick grate, right angle to the ash clean out. I can melt 3" sq. by accident. Don't restrict the air, cut it off with the gate....I hate to say it , BUT...that fire pot may ( will ) get red hot so keep that in mind when making the frame. Coke isn't like coal, it's way hotter 

Ok, yeah I've used this pot before and it does get red hot, Though because I didn't have enough airflow i would only get a tiny tiny fire in the pot, could'nt raise it above that. 

Not sure, i would need plans on how to make an air gate. or at least need to have a good look at how it is made, we cant buy equipment like that over here. at least not to my knowledge anyway :(

My advise, as usual, is to visit and use as many forges belonging to other smiths as possible... before... building your own forge.  That way you have a better idea what works for *you*, and not myself or anyone else.

 

That said, it looks like you have an excellent start with an excellent firepot, tuyer, and blower.  I'm not clear on what you are planning to do with the firebrick.  Having the blower straight in-line with the tuyer's air intake might result in embers blowing back into your blower, so if you look at other setups I believe you will usually see some offset, sometimes a lot of offset.  Sharp 90 degree turns will reduce the airflow into the forge, so gentle bends tend to be a good idea. 

 

Classic forges using the type of firepot and blower you have do well with a 2' by 2' or a 2' by 4' forge table. 

 

Check out the information on this forum on the three zones of a coal/coke fire, as it is very important.

 

With the parts you have, I am not sure where the firebrick will work, or even if they are needed with your firepot. 

ok The fire brick will create a basin for the forge like this, 

Hello I Forge Iron,

Just wondering can anybody who is experienced with COKE forges, Make any suggestions as to improving the forge design. I want the forge to be efficient because COKE and COAL are both quite expensive and rare here in AUS. The forge will be used for tool making, Items such as hammers, axes, spanners, punches, chisels and other tool repairs. ect. 

 The Forge design, 

The blue parts are fire bricks, The grey being a 5mm steel plate cut to 1035mmx920mm

Steel flat stock of 75mmx3mm are to be welded to the sides to stop the bricks from moving. 

The fire bricks being 76mmx230mmx115mm  H x L x W

The Fire pot being used is an old Vulcan Extra heavy duty

The Tuyere

The Firepot - Dont mind my feet ahaha, bad photo.

The fire pot is 13" x 12" and 4" deep. 

The blower is an old jumping castle blower that i picked up for $20 at a flea market.

I have a http://www.vayrotec.com.au/525k-motor-speedcontroller-p-769.html To slow the blower down to a more usable level. 

I'm thinking of mounting it to the underneath of the table having the outlet directly in line with the Tuyere inlet, with about 12" of space between the Inlet and outlet. 

I've not any experience with tooling forges or any forges large enough to be efficient and quick at heating thick bar. The largest sections of steel i will be heating is approximately 60 - 80 mm perhaps more. So if there is anyone with experience in this matter please any and all help will be appreciated. 

it seems a shame to loose such an awesome forge, is it possible to just have a steel forge as well?