Chris P

Yahoo for you!! good deal and a nice looking anvil. If you got the right numbers your anvil was made in 1899, IF it has the letter "A" before the numbers than it was made in 1922. Either way it is old but still has at least another 100 years left in her. Enjoy!

I can't make out much before the 4. Can't tell if there would have been anything there or not. He said that his father was an antique dealer and gave him the anvil over 20 years ago. I guess that means that either date above would sound about right. Thanks for the info. I'm heading out to the shop now. I'll double check the numbers. It was either 42271 or 47221. I don't suppose you have any info on the weight. He said around 140#, which fells about right.

Thanks again .

Yesterday I jumped on CL and saw a 140# "Ay Budde" anvil for $175. It was about 1030pm so I figured that like all the deals I've seen on CL it was gone (It was listed at 330 same day). For kicks I called the guy up this morning at about 9am and it was still there. I jumped in my truck to go see this beauty. Around here I haven't seen too many anvils for under $2/#, so if it had a good face it was coming home with me.

Tell me what you think, good deal or pretty average? I'm happy with the purchase and even happier to be owning a Hay Budden anvil.

P.S. From what I can tell, the serial number on the right front foot (when looking down the horn) is 42271 (if I didn't invert any numbers)

P.P.S. I wasn't sure if the forty-five in the third pic was custom or factory. Either way, I'm sure I can work with it.

I've been screening my coal to cut back on the dust that chokes my fires and clogs my air. I was wondering if anyone knew of a use for it? Seems like a waste to toss it.

I did a quick google search with "dts12" and various key words and couldn't turn up anything, so I'm guessing either its something with the user name or whatever site he joined is remarkably small.

Good luck.

Also, you don't jab the second rod into the puddle, but rather you use the heat from the first rod to melt the second rod and drop it into the puddle. Kind of hard to explain and hard to do too, but certainly possible. Remember, nessesity is a mother.

Exactly, thanks for mentioning this. Also, I wasn't using this for a real structural situation, it was more just to fill holes. I can say though, from what I've seen of it, it does work. I'm sure there are better options out there, but in a pinch it can come in handy.

Other than you not liking the idea, is there a reason to "just say no?"

Most of the time my stuff is cut to length and fits up all nice. But, there are sometimes when I'm working with scrap just throwing stuff together, that things aren't so pretty and nice. This was one of those times. I'm making a makeshift forge out of some old IH Scout parts. The metal I was working with was half rusted through and pretty thin to begin with. Using the second rod help me avoid burn through and helped me fill in some holes. I didn't need to run the second rod, I could have gotten by just fine working with one. But, the second rod made it quicker and a little easier, so, why not?

As far as days gone by, I'm actually a bigger fan of the old school techniques than a lot of the more modern methods. Today people seem to be more concerned with comfort and safety than with getting the job done. Maybe its just me.

On the second day of Christmas, my true love gave to me, two swage blocks for forming and an anvil on a big ole stump!

I wouldn't advise salt, unless you like having rust all over your tools. I'd have to agree with the heater idea. I'm going to pick one up from the local farm supply store this weekend.

Good luck, whatever route you go.

Duel wielding welding rod.

I few weeks ago I saw a friend of mine stick welding a soon to be wood processor. Usually he MIGs everything, so I hadn't had a chance to really pick up on any of the little tricks for stick (stick being my primary means of welding atm). I looked up to see him holding the stinger in one hand and another electrode in the other. I'm sure this is a common thing in the industry, but, its something I would have never thought of doing.

I tried it tonight on a makeshift forge I'm assembling and it works great. Kind of like brazing while welding.

Anyway, just thought I'd share a simple thing that impressed my simple mind .

I believed they updated/upgraded the forums recently and are still working out some of the details. Hopefully pics will be up soon .

I thought this was a very interesting, especially since I'm considering trying to build a gas forge. Thank you.

Chris, Someday I need to stop in Walker Machine, I have a 101 Scout.

Dick

You hit the nail on the head on that one. I guess there aren't too many shops working on Indians these days .

I've never even thought about getting a degree in Machining. Right now I have about a month and a half of experience under my belt working in a machine shop. I'm basically working for free, literally no money, but I see it as my education.

I don't know how old you are or what your plans are for the future, but if you could find the time I think it would be well worth it to get a little experience in a shop. Offer to work for free, or dirt cheap. Even one day a week would be good. I'm not saying don't get a degree, but real world experience is priceless.

The shop I work in is real old school. There isn't a CNC in the place and I'm happy about that. Mostly we work restoring old Indian Motorcycles, its a good time and keeps your mind going. There is something about making a part with your hands, feeling it being created, that gives the job that much more meaning. I have a hard time seeing myself learning how to program a CNC, but I'm afraid its something I'll eventually have to pursue if I want to find another job in the future.

Good luck.

Well, I picked up the lathe for a cool $250 today. Everything seems to be good on it, supposedly it was in the guys garage for 8 years unused and he just recently moved it out side because he needed the room. It was under a tarp when I got there and there doesn't seem to be any excessive wear on the ways. I couldn't start it, but the bearings feel pretty smooth. Nothing stuck or overly rusted, just a bit of surface rust to clean up.

Does anyone know anything about W.P. Davis Machine Co.? They were out of Rochester N.Y. if that helps. My wife did a quick google search, but didn't find much but other people looking for info. Doesn't seem to be a well known manufacturer.

I was thinking that. But, I figure it can't hurt to take a closer look. The price isn't too bad, I just have to figure out how I'm going to get it out of my truck if I do get it.

Were they any good? I've been told to kind of steer clear of JET lathes, but I'm not to up on many of the other manufactures.

I'm headed to look at a lathe tomorrow and right now I'm kind of walking into it blind. I asked the guy if he knew the manufacture and he said he couldn't recall off hand, but he thinks they were out of New York. This might not be much to go on, but anyone have any ideas who the manufacture could be.

Here is a link to the CL ad:
lathe, with 3 phase converter

At first I thought it was a South Bend, but if its out of NY, then I guess not.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

In the "New Edge of the Anvil" it is referred to as "blow back" which is a "dull pop or explosion of unburned gases trapped in the fire box." It says its from a lack of air, so maybe crank you blower more after sprinkling the water.

Possibly a stupid question, but why are swage blocks made from milder steel?

Has anyone ever made or tried to make a swage block(s) out of rail? It might work good because of it's reputation for being hard steel. I was thinking it would be possible to machine the proper angles and radii into different 1.5 or 2 foot sections and then bolt them down like an anvil.

The only problem I can think of off hand is the track not being thick enough for larger forms.

Thoughts? opinions?

I'd love to go check this out, unfortunately I'm a little in the negative with the budget as is trying to get my new shop built. I guess I'll just have to make due with my one anvil for now. Thanks for the heads up .

I'm not sure if this is the right forum for this, but I'm trying to brainstorm ideas for my old water heater. The tank itself was leaking water, so it will no longer serve its original purpose. What else can I do with it. Anyone have any ideas or projects they have created from old water heaters? I know I could just dump it, but it seems like there has to be something useful I can do with it.

Ideas?

So no suggestions on how much I should offer?

We are doing some work for the guy and we have done a lot of work in the past, so I'm hoping he just gives it too me in exchange for a break on the bill... Kind of wondering how much to take off the bill if he does give it to me too.

In light of the Re-bar for forging thread, I was wondering if it would be worth picking up some railroad track. I have to talk to the guy about it, but its sitting on the edge of the woods half covered by leaves. I'm just wondering if its worth picking up considering the hassle of moving it (5 or 6, 6-8' sections) and how much I should offer for it?

I know track is a high carbon steel, so it difficult to forge.. is it too much for a beginner?

I've been having a bit of trouble finding bituminous coal in Mass. Anthracite is not a problem, but I'm trying to avoid that due to the problems others have had with it. Does anyone know of a decent coal supplier, preferably in central Mass, but I'm pretty open to all of southern New England.

Thanks .