knifedude1999

How is your post vise's leg mounted?

I am making a mount, but the leg I don't have clue.

tempil sticks  wont work as well for tempering, except for some alloys like  H13 and those other things that like the 1000F degree temper.  Tempering is only part of the H/T proscess. pleasre the read pinned threads (sticky's) here and in the knife referance section for more details.  If we all use the same terms it makes answers to questions more useful

Do think they would work well for heat treating?

IDK, I've thought about the process but it seems to me a magnet and a good toaster oven with a thermometer are a lot simpler and perhaps easier.

a magnet with 5160 only tells your very close

with W2 I don't think that critical and non-magnetic are very close

Like I said I was talking about getting a feel for steel, since when you first forge a new steel you can't go by color.

BTW for differential  tempering not for through tempering

Anyone heat treat or temper with Tempilstiks?

or use them for anything?  :D

I thought they could be nice when getting the hang of new steels.

thx in advance

Where to buy coal in MN?
In northern MN, I know about R.T. Duggan Co. and I know about TradeWinds Heating Air Conditioning Fireplace LLC.
However I would prefer a closer supplier, and would like to know what you guys think.
What is the going rate per 50 pound?
Also I know soft bituminous coal is good is Anthracite coal OK? 
THX in advance

Thanks for the help!

I just bought a post vise it says Arthur J. O'Leary of Chicago, any history?

Are they good working man vises?

THX in advance!

Just a question, what epoxy do you use?

I noticed there wasn't a thread on epoxy on here so.....

I am going to start knifemaking this summer, so I haven't made a knife yet, and haven't used epoxy on a handle.

This is my first anvil!

152 pound hay budden, I payed 150 dollars.

BTW it's sweet for a sweet price.[

What safety equipment do you need?

I am going to start blade smithing this summer, I would now but the 2 feet of snow puts a damper on it.

In fact I got an anvil last sunday :)

I know that you need hearing protection, is there a criteria for hearing protection?

What to look for in safety glasses? I want to keep the glasses under 50 dollars

My wife wants me to wear a apron, I was looking at the "Pieh Knifemaker Apron, Flame Retardant" available at:

http://www.piehtoolco.com/contents/en-us/p10937.html or a leather welding apron, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/US-Forge-99406-Leather-Welding/dp/B0000DCZPF/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1361736150&sr=1-4&keywords=welding+apron#productDetails should I go for a leather welding apron or the knifemaker apron?

Also any recommendations on gloves?

THX in advance

BTW the anvil turned out to be a Hay Budden, it's 152 pounds and I payed 150 dollars!!!

Nice straight razor!

I had a grand time for a couple weeks with a large axle buried flange up as a field expedient anvil. It worked so well I'm still kicking myself for not pulling it out and bringing it home.

Frosty The Lucky.

THX I'll give it a try soon(week maybe 2) and post pictures.......

OK I am in my early teens, not rich, and I want to get forging.
So that brings me to my question about anvils, could I take a thicker piece of steel weighing like 30 pounds, nail it to a big tree stump and wouldn't that take the beating and a secure connection between the stump and steel should make their weight like one.

Let me know if you think this is possible!

THX in advance!

BTW didn't the vikings use a square of steel with a nail shank on one side in a tree stump as a travel anvil?

While not ideal a campfire works for general forging, it'll take some tweeking to weld in though. And yeah, I have years forging in the campfire while the other guys on the drill crew were knocking back a halfrack of beer after work. Building or buying a proper forge and fuel will get you farther down the road to being a smith much faster than teaching yourself how to get the performance from a campfire. Red rust isn't a problem, scale sure can be though.

What's your interest in annealing? Are you filing blades after quenching from critical? If you're forging forget about annealing any hardness will leave as you bring the stock to forging heat. Spring stock is a good choice for learning, it's pretty forgiving of heat treat mistakes. Just do NOT quench it till you're done forging and heck, grinding, filing, sanding, etc. Heat treating is the last step before final grind and polish.

Frosty The Lucky.

I know not to used plated steel.

I am reading the Backyard Blacksmith and read the $50 knife shop by wayne goddard.
And read quite a bit but nothing about rust in either book or on this fourm........
however no I have not lit a fire yet, I don't have the tools to hammer out metal, or a knife to heat treat.
I am looking for tools, and I have a forge......

I think that after you anneal the steel you will find that it's no longer rusty. As for using a camp fire, I don't think that would get hot enough.

Can you forge rusty steel? Does it put impurities in the steel? Annealing rusty steel?
I was also wondering can you Anneal in campfires specifically, leaf springs or rasps?

THX in advance!