thingmaker3

The tongs that Grant (Nakedanvil) makes are inexpensive and well made and provide a benchmark for you when you make your own.

I have a pair of Grant's "bladesmith" tongs - gooseneck vee-bit with a slight offset. I am very satisfied with them.

I'll be happy to produce the components, but I will leave final assembly to someone else.

I've used mine on knife bevels in lieu a sen tool. Works great.

Maybee you should speak to these folk: PABA

Six pounds each, then.

I gave about $1.35 per pound for 1050 earlier this year. Havn't priced 4340 in a couple years.

I need to figure out how much I would have to buy at half a buck a pound in order to cover gas down I-5. :)

My math says 72 pounds per 3"x36" bar... Steel is 0.283 pounds per cubic inch, yes?:confused:

"The Steel Yard" on Killingsworth.

And Clackamas Steel a block off 224 on SE 98th avenue in Clackamas.

Yes. Dan and Heidi of White Hart Forge. In addition to looking like a blacksmith, Dan is a good teacher and a fine craftsman.

Does she have a phone number?

Yes. It's on the website for the forge she and her husband run. He looks a little like Hulk Hogan.

I suggest trying Inter-Library Loan.

Get all the math right first...

Microwave Steel made at Institute of Materials Processing

We have one smith here in Portland who looks like Xena the Warrior Princess - except with lots of tattoos.

I look exactly like Orlando Bloom. Well, maybe not exactly.

T-1 is a decent grade for making lathe bits, drill bits, or end mills. Might make decent chisels or punches IF you can heat treat it properly. (Needs to be around 2350, plus or minus a bit, for a few minutes minimum.)

For a replacement, would lead-free pewter (tin, antimony, & silver) be suitable? Might not be affordable...

I wear a "split leg" bib apron. Got it as a present from good friends one winter.

Per the myths, Hephaestus had his "kourai kruseai" or "golden maidens" - four automatons he manufactured as assistants.

I use #4 cobalt blue flip-ups with my regular prescription safety glasses. Side shields are a must, because of those pesky "forge fleas."

I tried a DIY refractory made of perlite, fireclay, and portland cement once. Both the perlite and cement melt at high forging temperatures and I ended up with a real nifty-looking glassy substance. But it was real soft in the forge at temp.

Perlite melts at 1850C, or about 3300F. Is it possible your bag was mislabeled?

you could try it on 240 if you are brave.

European systems have one leg of that 240Vac "earthed." We would call it "grounded" in America. In America, neither leg of a 240Vac supply is grounded - each leg is at 120Vac to ground.

Now, if the case of the tool is connected to the leg which would have been earthed in Europe (for safety, dont'cha know)... well... I'd hate to be reading about "roast Duck." If the case is "double insulated," then experimentation would be a lot less chancy.

Mr. Duck, Sir, I regularly touch basis with some European electrical experts. If you can share the manufacturer and model number, I could possibly get some more specific information for you.

I make things, so: "Thingmaker's Things." Ambiguous? Yes. But so are some of the things I make.:rolleyes: