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I Forge Iron

EGreen

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Posts posted by EGreen

  1. ok borax from the store. got it. prep work, you mean clean an free of rust I'm guessing. these rings I wrapped around a piece of 3" pipe then saw off at an angle. do I need to keep the lap open so flux will get between the ends or does it matter. thanks

  2. been a while since I was last on here and I need a couple of questions answered that have never been straight in my head.

    question 1 to flux your work before you weld, you use borax, right? are we talking about the soap?

    2 do you use it like the flux in a can for brazing rods? preheat work put it on then heat till forge heat and hammer, or one heat

    sprinkle it on then hammer?

     I will be welding the ends of some 5/16" round rod rings for cinch rings. then add a piece of 1/2 X1/8" flat iron tacked on both ends

    the flat iron will be curved like a horseshoe and the ends will be tacked to the rings. thanks a bunch

  3. clutch adjusting tool for Big trucks. was working on Mack at the time. I used a gear shifter for the main body with the knob as a handle
    leather working tools from old hay rake teeth. swivel knives ,edgers and stamps Mack tach cable remover one end is not accessible, behind fuel pump

  4. Daddy was a cowboy. that is what us boys were gonna do also. in 1959 he bought us 3 older boys our first rope. I was 6 then . we learned the 2 basic loops. by the time I was 10 we could catch most any thing that moved. we started competing against each other roping left handed. I cracked some ribs in 83 on my right side on the ranch I was on at the time. I was having to rope a lot of calves to tag for registration purposes. I could still rope pretty good left handed after 20 plus years.

  5. they used to be cheap here in north east Okla. but they are sure high now. bought some 2 weeks ago for my garden. 2 bales little better than 16 bucks. having been around various slabs and foundations is why I posted about rot. cement will absorb and hold moisture. straw will rot. this is a high humidity area so I am just not sure it would work here. this is just my opinion on this. not here to light a fuse

  6. 7 to 8 bucks a bale around here. feller would go broke quick. mice would be a problem also because of all the grain. also seems like rot
    would be a factor from the hay pulling the moisture from the floor and plaster. then you would have the odor from the rot and mildew.
    once the moisture is there you would have a heat build up and possible spontaneous combustion. just my thoughts

  7. use skirting leather for your handles. cut a bunch of washers. stack them up on a bolt. chuch the bolt in a drill or drill press. if you have a table top drill press, lay it on its side on the bench or in the vise. turn your leather down with a rasp. cut your grooves with a rat tail rasp. clean up with sand paper. flatten both sides and re-cut the side grooves. pull your bolt and re-stack on handle. just dampen your leather a bit and use a deer horn or a good smooth hammer handle to burnish when done.

  8. Re stands for " re-inforcing" . and as we all know it's main use is for re-enforcing concrete. about 45 years ago you use to see a lot of chisels made from it. but it had a higher carbon content than now

  9. find a bunch of re-bar from a demo site or scrap yard. then proceed to straighten them out without heat. use your Eyes like you would when you pick up a board, look for the crooks an curves. this stuff hammers out easy but you will over bend sometimes. that is the good part of soft steel an no heat. it will sure sharpen your eyes and hand control.JMHO

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