SeaSideForge

Once again you have created a piece great work and I find myself wanting to steal your truck bed liner idea.... did you use rustoleum or another brand like rhino for the handle?

Hey all, been awhile since I made my first post and I am finally getting around to making a second one, mostly because of a lack of time. With that being said this is a recently created peice, made from 1095 HCS, a straightblade requested by my father. It has not yet been fully sharpened yet, which I presume to be a formidible task. I had a lot of fun forging this because of the fact I hadnt forged for awhile and it allowed me to get back into things while seeing the progress I have made since first starting, especially on my tapers and post forging file work. I also ventured out on this one, I tried doing some etching using electrolysis (aka a battery charger and some saline solution). I attemped to etch a makers mark, one which I am still trying to create without stepping on anyones toes( not that I consider myself good enough to do so). For this small blade I etched a small sombrero along with some initials on either side of the tang which I plan to leave bare. With all that being said I invite critisism and opinions.

its all about the NJ Steel Baron

Thats incredibly sweet

What are the handles made of? love the work

Your confusing my status as mountain man with your average weekend warrior . A mountain man needs what I like to call a "get sh-- done knife" . Your are correct that a green horn would harm himself with a large knife of great intensity. But in all seriousness I'm young but I know what I'm doing so I'll be fine. And most of the tIme I'm too lazy to carry an axe if I do a minimalist trip so that's my reason for a larger knife. Not to compensate for other things haha .

Thanks for your replies. I will try filing before I heat treat in the future. This knife I made to be handy out in the bush, i put a thicker bevel toward the tang for slpitting and heavy work and then a finer bevel going up the blade. It is very sharp and would be good as a kitchen knife with a differnent handle arrangment-not much of a wood chopper. I probably will not personally use it to much because i have no use for it now and plan to be making a better one this upcoming weekend. In fact I may try selling it cheap. All in all its a good knife for your average camper, not for someone like myself who is out in the bush for a week or two without break... i need a bigger knife for that, which i plan to be forging out soon.

Before I would hammer out spikes and hope they'd be an ok shape, but with this one I drew out the tang and it looked how I wanted it to, felt good to do that. As far as the handle goes I will eventually put a real wood on. Im just not a wood genius. Do you (anyone ) sharpen before you heat treat ? Because after I quenched and tempered this blade it took me 4 hours to sharpen the bevel with a file, it had almost no affect.

What do you mean my older? And i have an older charger that will push 50 amps. just wondering. :D

So this will be my first post of a knife I have created. This will also be the first knife I have forged out of 1095 ( much easier to work than Rail Road Spikes). Specs are as Follows Material:1095 OAL: 9 1/2" Blade Length: 5 1/2 " Tang(Full):4" Please comment on flaws and anything I did that was beneficial to the blade(if any).Any critisism is taken and put in the next one making it better than this one-no going back. Thank you for taking a look. Cant seem to post pic, I will leave link to Pic.

Im sorry but could some one make this ridiculously easy for me? I live in the US and would be using a battery charger, either one for a large Car/motorcycle battery or a small Rc-up to 10 volt battery charger. And if this not be enough juice someone please let me know. Thanks

Looks great... What did you use to glue the handle to the tang before you pinned it in?

hey just looking through old posts.. im pretty new to bladesmithing myself so im in no place to give you any real pointers.... but when i put a bevel on the blade i bend the unbeveled blade so that when i start hammering out a bevel and moving material it doesnt curve up like yours.. so basically your counter acting the affect the bevel has on the blade.. is a few months after you posted this so i suppose you figured this out but I hope it Helped

The title says it all. I am a new member and new to bladesmithing. I am learning by doing but.....I need to know alot about carbon levels and hardness I have made a few knives so far out of railroad spikes, of which i have 30. I am unclear on queching/tempering process. Any and all knowlegde is apreciated. here is a picture of my latest (3rd) knife still rough and not so good looking. As for equipment i have been working with a pair of channel locks, a hammer , a rail road track segment which i took to school to mill and shape horn, and a forge i made from a brake drum, rebar and and some 3 inch pipe. once again any and all advise is appreciated. =)